caleb90

Fuck china and FJB

Elka was a better deal, more known than the new worx's company. Also was easyer as i bought a long travel a arm kit and shocks all together

Worx is the son from works shocks. I looked into them myself when i did my build. I ended going elka

Never heard of it, is it uv protected strait from the can?

Powder

No, just live within my means. If i cant buy it cash i dont need it.

Im good, other than one mortage soon to be 2 and about 5 vehicle loans. Ive lived my life mostly debt free

Yeah, looked at the 700s but decided agaisnt it as they are slow as dog poo.. the 1000 is out of my price range right now.

Ended up putting money down on a used can am defender hd8 max. Only has 350 miles and was 14000 otd. Quite a bit money saved, hopfully the 6 seater wont be to big. Got it because it fit the whole family

Looking to buy a side by side for the new property.. narrowed down to the defender hd7 or hd9 eps or a ranger 1000.. last polaris i had was a turd.. want it to put around the farm and woods with the kids

Clogged with debri or junk oil? If debri pull the tank, take petcock off and clean the thing out

Im not going to even try n help

Does he get a cut on every frame sold?

If special was a mod we wouldnt have this spam.... ..... ....

You can stud weld a stud onto the dent. Then use a slide hammer to bring it out. Grind flat rechrome.. problem is once you start fucking with it , it will be hard to get perfect

Why would you put all this time and effort into building a stock frame one off chassis?

Loctight also makes a thread repair epoxy, ive used it and it does work. Just some options before you buy new

Try a longer screw, run a tap in to clean the hole up. Just use lots of oil and go slow, aluminum will plug and bind the tap if you go to fast

https://www.tmdesignworks.com/p-5300-atv-slide-n-guide-kit-brstock-aftermarket-swingarms-brpn-ycp-ban.aspx

Thats your swingarm pivot bolt. You need to take you whole swingarm off to change your roller. Then put on a tmdesign work chain slider

So had a dumb moment. Went out this morning to swap jets and reclean carbs. Every thing was spotless or so i thought. The pilot jet in the side i was having issues, had a wad of fuz in it from the new petcock i put in. Put all back together and ran as it should... Good news is i was right about the needles and draft tubes being wore. As now it needs the 30 pilots in it, currently at half turn out, still kinda fat on the bottom

Yes ran fat with 27.5 pilots before. But when i bought the machine it had ingested alot of sand. With the motor work i have it should need a 30 pilot, so i assumed the needle and draft tubes were wore bigger due to dirt. So i replaced all that with oem new. It acts like its running lean now at an idle, yes carbs are synced and the choke cross over is connected.

So had my jetting dialed in most the way last year, just ran fat on the bottom even with 27.5 pilots. I assumed the needles and draft tubes were wore causing a rich condition. So i just replaced the slide needles and draft tubes with new oem, put 30 pilots back in. Air screw 2 turns out. Stopped and got 100ll today filled it up and wtf. Idles on th pto side only unless i choke it some, the the mag side will kick in for a bit. Took mag cab off, went through it again and same issue. Compression is at 125psi mag and 123 pto. My only thought left is to swap carb parts to see if the problem follows. Just seems odd as the only thing new is fuel, pilot jets and needles + draft tubes.

Id go meier before vitos

Those are off brand chinese carbs. Your better off buying a set of used oem carbs if your trying to save money