magz Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I got my +4 plate in and everything seems fine....but dam i just don't wanted to check in with you guys before I tear the desert a new asshole this weekend. The bike starts first kick and idles just like it did before install. I have not put her in gear and got WOT yet though. I left the stator cover off and started her and everything seems fine as far as spin and gap but is there anything that I should be looking for that give me a sign that I will fuck her up once shes running hard? nope should be fine aslong as you put locktite on all the screws on re-assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-in-Cali Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 Thanx bro....nope didn't forget that for a second Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Burgandy Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 I just did mine, BUT I dont remember seeing any KEY your talking about AND i didnt set the gap or whatever for the fly wheel... am I gonna have any problems since I didnt set the gap thing. Just wondering before I go out hitting the trails this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heater Posted March 29, 2009 Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 my bike is over heating, if i get it in the tree trails its done but if i stay at the drag strip it doesnt over heat. the water pump seems to be doing good, we took off the hose from the head and turned it over and had plenty of fuild coming out. so i think my impleler is fine but havent looked at it. i was told that my timing might be set up to high. is there an easy way to check and make sure it is at a +4, i had a guy tell me he thinks its at a +7. i have an adjustible stator, ported and polished, bored pistons, cool head, 19 domes and an aftermaket aluminum radiator and aftermarket impleler. im new at this and tired of spending all the money on labor and not parts so im going to start doing as much as i can but i need help getting started. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magz Posted March 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 (edited) my bike is over heating, if i get it in the tree trails its done but if i stay at the drag strip it doesnt over heat. the water pump seems to be doing good, we took off the hose from the head and turned it over and had plenty of fuild coming out. so i think my impleler is fine but havent looked at it. i was told that my timing might be set up to high. is there an easy way to check and make sure it is at a +4, i had a guy tell me he thinks its at a +7. i have an adjustible stator, ported and polished, bored pistons, cool head, 19 domes and an aftermaket aluminum radiator and aftermarket impleler. im new at this and tired of spending all the money on labor and not parts so im going to start doing as much as i can but i need help getting started. thanks generally the more the timing is advanced the more heat build up occures, the adjustible timing plates have timing marks, just pull the cover off and see what it says, iv never heard of an adjustible stator. just make sure you have plenty of water or engine ice in there. make sure its full. and make sure the impellar is good. then check your PSI, 19cc domes may require high octane gas depending on your PSI, that could be the culprit too. all should be fine after that. if you still have problems make a general post in the modifications & parts forum. Edited March 29, 2009 by magz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4strokekilla1987 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 this may seem stupid but what are domes what do they do and what do u need to have to install them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xater Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 this may seem stupid but what are domes what do they do and what do u need to have to install them Domes are inserts for aftermarket heads like cool heads. lower the number higher the compression. 22cc domes are stock compression i beleve. so if you bought 19cc domes your compression would be higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee_Bandit Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Hi All, just wondering, ever since I advanced my timing +4, Shee is stuttering within the range of the first 1/4 of the throttle. Basically when i hit the throttle it stutters first and then wakes up afterwards... What could be the hold-up here ?!? Any ideas ? I mean before I changed the timing Shee was running like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee_Bandit Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 *bump* come on guys someone`s gotta know somethin` about that !?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lochner27 Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 How to install an Adjustible timing plate. Tools needed: Cresent Wrench, Wrenchs, Sockets, Wrachet,Impact, Impact screw driver and #2 screw driver, Adjustible strap wrench. Flywheel puller DO NOT USE A 3 JAW PULLER EVER. OR ANY OTHER DEVICE BESIDES WHAT IS RECOMMENED!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Remove: Taking off the foot peg and nerf bar will be required. Aswell as the shifter then remove all 7 bolts holding the left side case on Remove: The nut holding the flywheel on with the impact you may or may not need the hold the flywheel with a strap wrench or your hand Remove: The Flywheel its self now. You need the flywheel puller. if you have the correct tool for this job the entire job will take you no more then 30 minutes. You need to clean all the threads on the flywheel and puller as best you can with a soft brush of some sort if you can. then apply grease to the threads on the puller and the fly wheel aswell as the tip of the crank shaft where the puller will be pushing on it. So now attempt to thread the flywheel puller on but remember it is reverse threaded. so spin it on counter-clock-wise. untill snug then with a cresent snug it on a little better if possible. hold the flywheel puller with the cresent wrench and use the impact to pull the flywheel off. when the fly wheel pops off the key generally falls into the magnetic part of the inside. Loosen: Loosen the 3 screws holding the stator to the timing plate, then loosen the 3 screw holding the timing plate to the case. Remove: The 3 bolts holding the stators on now then remove the 3 bolts holding the timing plate on, there will be two small bolts the wires on the back remove those also of course. then grab your new timing plate and reverse everything youve done up to this point. locktite all 6 screws back in and adjust your timing plate to the crack in the case for the timing line. NOTE: Most people recommend +4 Timing as do I Install: The flywheel back on. put the key back into the spot where it came and put the flywheel back on carefully. press it on as best you can then use the impact and tighten the bolt back on which will tighten the flywheel into place. You will need to set the timing gap so rotate the flywheel to the raise notch and adjust the pick-up to about a buisness cards thickness between the notch and pick up or .016-.020 Install: Now your pretty much done. put the case back on and the foot peg and kick it over make sure it starts and runs good sounds good and your pretty much done, take the peg off put the shifter on and put everything back together and go have fun! the job should have taken between 15-45 minutes depending on your skill. Well I Hope this helps some people. its an easy job. Alot easier then it sounds and people make it out to be harder. PLEASE PLEASE Contact jeff( FASTOYS ) at FARM AND SAND TOYS for the flywheel remover and adjustible timing plates. or PM Good post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loc Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 Installed mine today everything went great. I hope to ride soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex565 Posted May 16, 2009 Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 mine likes high timing 7 and stock setting on dyna = 11 on 565 trex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlyjff Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 An adjustable or even open-end wrench may not be enough and will damage the nut and tend to slip off, possibly quite violently. The. Else, you'll be replacing the engine next time there is a minor incident. Tighten the blade nut to the recommended torque. If. If your adapter/blade doesn't pop off after removing the nut or bolt, it may be mounted using a taper like the flywheel. This. WARNING: Do not install a hard steel key in place of the recommended blade lock key as you will lose the protection that the soft metal provides and the next incident may be the last.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juan1 Posted January 3, 2010 Report Share Posted January 3, 2010 my was set at -2 the only other think i could think of is nitrous,or is there any other reason for the timing to be retarded instead of advanced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 Just put the Chariot timing plate (+4) on my Banshee following your instruction. Runs awesome! Thanks....Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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