How to check for a faulty stator

[Dgrey]

Please inform me on how to check for a faulty stator. I e mailed Ricky Stator and they said to ship the item back and they will replace it.

 

I want to make sure it is faulty before I waste time shipping it back. Is there any ways to be 100% sure that its faulty, or maybe just not working right, because the bike does start and the lights work well because it is a 200 watt stator with attached adjustable timing plate.

 

Tonight im going to measure and make sure the pickup coil is with .020" to .030" from the "nub" on the flywheel as I was informed to check.

[375hp banshees]

Please inform me on how to check for a faulty stator. I e mailed Ricky Stator and they said to ship the item back and they will replace it.

 

I want to make sure it is faulty before I waste time shipping it back. Is there any ways to be 100% sure that its faulty, or maybe just not working right, because the bike does start and the lights work well because it is a 200 watt stator with attached adjustable timing plate.

 

Tonight im going to measure and make sure the pickup coil is with .020" to .030" from the "nub" on the flywheel as I was informed to check.

 

 

CHECK HERE

[Dgrey]

Okay, okay im sure buy now the "regulars" on here know my bike drama that I have been having. I just came up with what I will do to eliminate things that could be causing the proble.

 

1st im going to put in the 350 jets that my builder said may be to fat, but is a good starting point.

2nd im going to take off the stator side cover and set the timing back to 0

3rd RIDE down the street and see if it breaks up in the power band and crackles like it used to.

4th if it still DOES break up in the power band and crackle then I will take OUT the ricky stator and put in my factory one.

5th RIDE down the street and test again

6th if its does NOT crackle and break up in the power band then I found my problem. If it DOES still run the same then I'll put back in the 200 watt stator and set the timing back to +6 and rest assured that the stator or the +6 timing is NOT the problem.

7th... I guess go fatter on the jet even through the builder said I would NOT need anything above 350.

8th... do some needle adjustments because I have not done any yet

9th if it still does it, sell the bike to a kid that does not know anything and dont let him ride it down the street. j/k. What I would really do it take it to a shop and pay out the A$$ for some tuneing.

[BellicoseBanshee]

if it still does it, sell the bike to a kid that does not know anything and dont let him ride it down the street. j/k. What I would really do it take it to a shop and pay out the A$$ for some tuneing.

At least you have not lost your sense of humor, yet. Don't get too hung up on the recommended jetting. Without actually tuning your bike specifically, it is only reasonable that the builder's suggested settings may be off a little. You will nail this problem down, and then you will be well armed to help the next HQer with the same problem.

[RZBansheeMan]

I know things can get quite discouraging, but be patient, and stay persistant. If you have the mechanical "know how" to tear the topend apart and re-assmble it, then you will be able to fix this.

 

One of the things I didn't catch is, did you "torque" the cylinder base down on both cylinders ?

 

Another thing, did you make sure and grease the O-rings on the head so they stay put ?

 

Did you "torque" the cylinder head ?

 

Did you torque the 4 bolts that mount the intake boots to the back of the cylinders ?

 

I would also consider a compression check.

 

Just trying to help eliminate the possibilities of an air leak.

 

I would also get those carbs synchronized.

 

Like stated earlier I would start with the recommended jetting, with the needle clip in the middle position, screw your airscrews all the way in and turn them both out to whatever is recommended as a starting point.

 

Don't give up !!! "YOU CAN DO IT"

 

:beer:

[Dgrey]

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I know things can get quite discouraging, but be patient, and stay persistant. If you have the mechanical "know how" to tear the topend apart and re-assmble it, then you will be able to fix this.

 

Okay that makes me feel better!

 

One of the things I didn't catch is, did you "torque" the cylinder base down on both cylinders ?

 

Yes sir.

 

Another thing, did you make sure and grease the O-rings on the head so they stay put ?

 

Yes I did

 

Did you "torque" the cylinder head ?

 

Yep!

 

Did you torque the 4 bolts that mount the intake boots to the back of the cylinders ?

 

That's a negative. Arn't they allen head bolts? I am at work and can not look at the bike now. What is the torque spec?

 

I would also consider a compression check.

 

I have a compression check tool, but is was a cheap a$$ like $20 one. I will do it through because im sure its more accurate than guessing! I will report back with the total compression.

 

Just trying to help eliminate the possibilities of an air leak.

 

Yeah, I tested for air leak with a can of carb cleaner while the bike was running and didn't find anything I still need to torque the boots that bolt to the back of the jugs!

 

I would also get those carbs synchronized.

 

Carb sync tool is on the way and was ordered last Friday!

 

Like stated earlier I would start with the recommended jetting, with the needle clip in the middle position, screw your airscrews all the way in and turn them both out to whatever is recommended as a starting point.

 

I have not adjusted the needle yet. Im going to test and make sure the stator and the timing have nothing to do with the why the bike is running like it is then go BACK to tweaking with the carbs. I dont know what the "starting point" the air screws are supposed to be at but the bike idles perfect.

 

Don't give up !!! "YOU CAN DO IT"

 

I have all next weekend to tweak on it I hope that I can do it!

 

 

 

Mmmm... beer = motivation.

[Snopczynski]

Okay, okay im sure buy now the "regulars" on here know my bike drama that I have been having. I just came up with what I will do to eliminate things that could be causing the proble.

 

1st im going to put in the 350 jets that my builder said may be to fat, but is a good starting point.

2nd im going to take off the stator side cover and set the timing back to 0

3rd RIDE down the street and see if it breaks up in the power band and crackles like it used to.

4th if it still DOES break up in the power band and crackle then I will take OUT the ricky stator and put in my factory one.

5th RIDE down the street and test again

6th if its does NOT crackle and break up in the power band then I found my problem. If it DOES still run the same then I'll put back in the 200 watt stator and set the timing back to +6 and rest assured that the stator or the +6 timing is NOT the problem.

7th... I guess go fatter on the jet even through the builder said I would NOT need anything above 350.

8th... do some needle adjustments because I have not done any yet

9th if it still does it, sell the bike to a kid that does not know anything and dont let him ride it down the street. j/k. What I would really do it take it to a shop and pay out the A$$ for some tuneing.

 

One adjustment at a time. I would change jets, then ride............

 

Where is your stock stator. Just so you know, if you dropped or hit the flywheel with a hammer you could have cracked the magnets in it, and it will run like crap. Dont be so quick to condemn the stator just because it is a RS unit. I ride with 5 guys that have them + myself, and we dont have issues with them. I would say 90% of the stator issues are people install them incorrectly.

Edited August 21, 2007 by Snopczynski

[Dgrey]

One adjustment at a time. I would change jets, then ride............

 

Where is your stock stator. Just so you know, if you dropped or hit the flywheel with a hammer you could have cracked the magnets in it, and it will run like crap. Dont be so quick to condemn the stator just because it is a RS unit. I ride with 5 guys that have them + myself, and we dont have issues with them. I would say 90% of the stator issues are people install them incorrectly.

 

I never hit the flywhee. I read up on it before I actually took it off. Then I had to run to the store to get a flywheel puller.

 

I will do the jetting change 1st because that is the easyest thing to do.

 

I just dont undersatnad... Its running (what looks to be) really lean, but yet the guy that did the port and knew my mods said to use a 350 jet and that will 99% chance be to fat. I started w/ a 350 then 340 with no realy difference in how it was running.

[Snopczynski]

put a 390 in it.

[dajogejr]

Did you OHM and check the stator?

I had a brand new RS stator go bad on me in less than a year. I ohm'd it, one side was dead...and I sent it to RS.

No questions asked, sent me a new one within a week.

 

As Snop said, you can read all you want....but I can tell you off the bat you want .015 to .020 air gap between the flywheel and pickup coil.

 

More than .020 is too much, IMO.

 

If it fails the ohm test, send it back to them. If it ohms fine, look towards the jetting...as said.

 

This is your new best friend for dialing the main in:

http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

[RagunCajun]

dgrey dont give up man. I just went through that over here with my bike. In the end, i had a pinched oring on my noss head. Just check things one by one like the guys said and you WILL find the problem. :thumbsup:

[FireHead]

I didn't read this entire thread......................., but here's what y'all need to do: PM Blowit on here. I say this because the method described in a CLymer manual does work, but it won't necessarily catch a fault all the time. Statot performance test with the style of stator found on many motorcycle'esque engines (such as the Banshee engine) is definitely more of an art form than a science. The straigh forward ressitance test with a DVOM will not always give you enough info to tell for certain if there is a problem. There is definitely a process involved here.......................and I do not feel comfortable giving advice on this, especially when you consider the hit and miss nature of a wound coil, AC rectifying device. :geek:

[1966nova]

my rs staor checked fine brand new out of the box but no spark? so i mailed it back to rs they said there was a nother test the book does not tell you.... they said sorry its bad and mailed me a new one..... after the 3rd one it works great.......