Dgrey Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 (edited) Everything done and installed yesterday- Recently ported jugs (http://www.herrjugsracing.com/) Kevin Herr did the work, Noss head 19cc domes, VF3 reeds, pod filters, clutch springs, billet impellar, ricky stator 200watt and adjustable timing plate set to +6, stock carbs that I also installed a Toomey TORS elemination kit on as well, and using 100 octane gas race gas. The bike has toomey t5 pipes on it. and I got the bike to start last night. It does not idle and I don't know much about carbs... =( I was playing with the bolts on the cap at the top of the carbs trying to get it to idle and I could not. I read that the idle adjustment bolts are only for "fine tuneing" so I didn't really mess with those yet. The throttle seems like I barely touch it and the bike is revving to high heaven so I don't know if that is a bad adjustment on the carbs or if its just the way its going to be now. Mr. Herr who did the port job has me starting off with 350 for the main jet. He said that MAY be and probably is to fat, but better safe than sorry. So... It also seems that the bike is smoking less out of the pipes when it was running. I have 340 and 330 jets that I could also try, but if I cant get it to idle (and its really hard to start) Like 5 kicks AND the throttle has to be 1/2 way open before it does start, there is no use flying down the street in 3rd gear pinned to check the jetting, ya know what I mean? Once I get it to idle (and start normal) I'll feel more safe flying down the street. The jets that were in the carbs before this install were 300 I don't know if that means anything, but now you know and maybe give a brotha some advide! Do you guys think that I should just spend the $$$ and take is somewhere to be dyno tuned? I think that is kind of dumb through because I would like to know how to do these adjustments myself incase me or a friend need to do the work out in the dunes... When the top end was apart... Edited August 12, 2007 by Dgrey Quote
Bansh-eman Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 you need to get that thing to idle befoer you put it on the dyno, if your runnign stock carbs you should be around 320 main, 27.5 pilot, needle 4th clip. once you get it idleing nice break it in then worry about dynoing it. get your self a carb sync tool too. bacially you want to open the caps up so you can kick it and it will stay running. then set your idle. once your idle is good use the tool to messure the carbs and set them so they are synced at idle using the caps. then crack the thrttle a bit and messure again. to be honest unless your racing that thing dont waste your money dyno uning it.. you can get it close enough for playing on Quote
Dgrey Posted August 12, 2007 Author Report Posted August 12, 2007 you need to get that thing to idle befoer you put it on the dyno, if your runnign stock carbs you should be around 320 main, 27.5 pilot, needle 4th clip. once you get it idleing nice break it in then worry about dynoing it. get your self a carb sync tool too. bacially you want to open the caps up so you can kick it and it will stay running. then set your idle. once your idle is good use the tool to messure the carbs and set them so they are synced at idle using the caps. then crack the thrttle a bit and messure again. to be honest unless your racing that thing dont waste your money dyno uning it.. you can get it close enough for playing on Damn I called and a carb sync gauge is $230 !!! Damnit I dont have anymore money to spend on this thing until the end of the month. And im not saying that you are wrong, but the guy that did the porting said that the needles and what not would be okay and that the main jet is the only one that mattered. I don't get it. I also do not even know what you mean about the needle being on the 4th clip is that the stock needel just moved around or something in there? Quote
peak-j Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 You can get a cheaper sync. tool than that, I paid around $50 for mine from Jeff at F.A.S.T racing. Call him. Also the needles have grooves on them so you can adjust them. You have to take the tops of the carbs and take them apart then you will see the grooves. But you really need a sync. tool. Check everything over really good for leaks and shit like that. Make sure the choke tube is hooked up between carbs. Quote
jbooker82 Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 Here is the carb sync. Get it Idling. Sync the Idle so both carbs are pulling the same amount of air. Then Rev it up a little so there is no slack in the throttle cable. Then measure the air flow. Adjust the cable at the top of the carbs until you get the same reading from carb to carb. Carb Sync from FAST LINK Quote
jbooker82 Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 Here is the carb sync. Get it Idling. Sync the Idle so both carbs are pulling the same amount of air. Then Rev it up a little so there is no slack in the throttle cable. Then measure the air flow. Adjust the cable at the top of the carbs until you get the same reading from carb to carb. Carb Sync from FAST LINK Quote
Dgrey Posted August 12, 2007 Author Report Posted August 12, 2007 Here is the carb sync. Get it Idling. Sync the Idle so both carbs are pulling the same amount of air. Then Rev it up a little so there is no slack in the throttle cable. Then measure the air flow. Adjust the cable at the top of the carbs until you get the same reading from carb to carb. Carb Sync from FAST LINK I get one of those. Thanks man! I just need to figure out why my slides are not closing all the way! Quote
Bansh-eman Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 take out all the slack on your cable then screw the caps all the way in... use your idle screws to get it to hold... then start turning the screws on the cap... getting idle is the hardest part of it, once you get that going its ez Quote
Matt96shee Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 hey man, did your tors removal kit come with idle screws to install? and, did you get the slides in the right way? i'm having a brain fart and can't remember which way is the right way, do a search...it's been discussed a 1000 times. if you didn't put those idle screws in you'll have some adjustment with those hex nuts on the caps. my stock carbs had the tors removed but the dumbass kid didn't put in the idle screws and i had to do it that way. if your stock carb slides aren't closing it's either the adjustment on the caps or you're binding the throttle cable somewhere. i don't know the answer to this question but do you need a new throttle cable when you take the tors off? oh yea, i think you won the longest titled post ever contest!!!! I get one of those. Thanks man! I just need to figure out why my slides are not closing all the way! Quote
luv2rideaz Posted August 14, 2007 Report Posted August 14, 2007 (edited) im kinda new to this twin carb stuff. but i have been learning, my question is... the sync tool listed above, is it needed on stock carbs when you can use the sight glass on the carbs when the throttle is in wide open position and the little ball comes into the glass? thats how i did mine, if i am wrong please tell me. another question, i am at +4 on timing, should i go to +6. whats the benefits? Edited August 14, 2007 by luv2rideaz Quote
Bansh-eman Posted August 14, 2007 Report Posted August 14, 2007 you dont have to messure at wide open. you messure your idle on both sides. make them match... thn you crack the throttle and messure it again and they should still match. once you get them to match at both then they are sucking the same amount Quote
luv2rideaz Posted August 14, 2007 Report Posted August 14, 2007 (edited) i understand not needing to measure at wide open, but what i described, won't that put the slides at the same position? i am not doubting what you guys are saying, just not sure if i need to buy that carb sync tool. Edited August 14, 2007 by luv2rideaz Quote
Bansh-eman Posted August 14, 2007 Report Posted August 14, 2007 the only way to 100% sync your carbs is to messure the amount of air they are pulling. im not exactly sure what your referring to. some swear that they can get them synced by eyeing it but its just not going to happen. yes u can get lucky and land it right but your not going to get it ass on wthout a tool Quote
luv2rideaz Posted August 14, 2007 Report Posted August 14, 2007 yea, i think i will get one, to be more precise about it. what i am talking about is the little sight glass on the sides of the stock carbs. it is only 1/4 inch round glass. when you raise the slides up, a little ball type thing comes into the sight glass. it is so you can adjust the slides so they are at the same point as each other. but the tool actually works off of volume of air, versus position of slide Quote
Bansh-eman Posted August 14, 2007 Report Posted August 14, 2007 oh i couldnt tell you i havent had stock carbs for a long time sry. Quote
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