Everything done and installed - Dune port, Noss head 19cc domes, VF3 reeds, pod filters, clutch springs, billet impellar, ricky stator 200watt and

[fastbanshee8]

yea, i think i will get one, to be more precise about it. what i am talking about is the little sight glass on the sides of the stock carbs. it is only 1/4 inch round glass. when you raise the slides up, a little ball type thing comes into the sight glass. it is so you can adjust the slides so they are at the same point as each other. but the tool actually works off of volume of air, versus position of slide

 

 

When the TORS is removed, you won't have the sight glass to adjust the slides with anymore, and that is the reason for needing the Carb Synch tool. The whole carb top is replaced with a simple carb cap, when installing the TORS removal kit. I bought the Carb Synch tool, and it's very easy to use, and it works great.

Edited August 14, 2007 by fastbanshee8

[RagunCajun]

Only thing bad about the carb sync tool is the lack of instructions. There isnt any. I've explained how to use it in other threads.

 

You dont adjust the idle using the screws ontop the carbs. They are for syncing only and making sure there's enough slack in the lines. Just make sure the cables are screw in far enough for the slides to go all the way down. You can even screw them in all the way. No big deal. You can worry about sycning later after you can get it to idle. The idle screws that you have to tap a hole for control the idle. Start with all the way in, and 1/4 turn out. The nut should rest flush against the carb sicne you should of filed it down before you put the screw in.

 

Make sure the "half moon" pm the carb slides are facing the air filters. If this is all correct, the slides and/or cables are probably sticking, Lube the throttle cable since it's probably new. then back out the idle screw a tiny bit more so the slides dont get stuck on it. You can look at the slides w/ the air filters off to make sure.

 

All of this might seem hard but it's really easy to do. I went through all of this a couple months ago. I know it can be scary.

Edited August 14, 2007 by RagunCajun

[Dgrey]

Only thing bad about the carb sync tool is the lack of instructions. There isnt any. I've explained how to use it in other threads.

 

You dont adjust the idle using the screws ontop the carbs. They are for syncing only and making sure there's enough slack in the lines. Just make sure the cables are screw in far enough for the slides to go all the way down. You can even screw them in all the way. No big deal. You can worry about sycning later after you can get it to idle. The idle screws that you have to tap a hole for control the idle. Start with all the way in, and 1/4 turn out. The nut should rest flush against the carb sicne you should of filed it down before you put the screw in.

 

Make sure the "half moon" pm the carb slides are facing the air filters. If this is all correct, the slides and/or cables are probably sticking, Lube the throttle cable since it's probably new. then back out the idle screw a tiny bit more so the slides dont get stuck on it. You can look at the slides w/ the air filters off to make sure.

 

All of this might seem hard but it's really easy to do. I went through all of this a couple months ago. I know it can be scary.

 

Yeah I got it to idle, I just need to sync the carbs. Because, even through the slides look like they are up the same heighth and they move at the same times according to my eye when I start the bike up I get a lot more exhaust smoke out the left side. I wonder what is up with that!!! I hope it is a snyc issue.

[RagunCajun]

Ha, i hear that. Mine has more exaust smoke coming out the right side(when sitting on the bike).

 

Mine looked sync too to my eyes but the gauge said it wasnt by a lot.

 

Dgrey, did you go up a tooth on your front sprocket since the port job?

Edited August 15, 2007 by RagunCajun

[Dgrey]

Ha, i hear that. Mine has more exaust smoke coming out the right side(when sitting on the bike).

 

Mine looked sync too to my eyes but the gauge said it wasnt by a lot.

 

Dgrey, did you go up a tooth on your front sprocket since the port job?

 

I ordered the carb sync tool yesterday hopefully I get it before the weekend so I have something to tweak out on.

 

No, I did not go up one tooth on the sprocket can you please explain why I would want to do this and what it will do for the bike.

 

Im thinking about getting 20x11x10 8 cup haulers on douglas blue label rims if that makes any difference in gearing. I still don't know all about gearing yet, but I could take your engine apart for you. =)

[RagunCajun]

Well i went up one tooth to lengthen the gears out a little plus, i have the power to push it. However, i do not ride sand nor do i have big tires. I have 19's and run mostly on flat terrain so i can pull the 15t front easy. I was just curious.

 

Speaking of engines, i needa go put mine back together in a few min. oh joy.

[Justintoxicated]

I have never used a carb sync tool. I don't think it is necessary, but maybe nice to have.

 

When you put the carbs back together there is a piece inside the carb top that has a hole in it, if you put it in backwards that hole will not be able to vent. Other common mistake is backwards slides, sticking floats, or missing crossover tube. but even a plugged jet with a tiny piece of sand could be causing idle problems.

 

More specificaly if you go to www.albaaction.com -> Parts -> OEM Part Finder. Then select Carbs (maybe this link will work)

 

http://216.37.204.206/alba/Yamaha_OEM/Yama...p;A=208&B=1

 

or

 

http://216.37.204.206/alba/Yamaha_OEM/Yama...=1&Action=O

 

I'm talking about Part #10 .VALVE, THROTTLE 1 (UR FOR LEFT) it has a hole in one side that you do not want to cover when you put in part #23.

 

Check your pilot jets, and poke them out with a twisty tie wire or some such thing.

Edited August 17, 2007 by Justintoxicated

[RagunCajun]

what happens when it doesnt vent ?

[luv2rideaz]

if i understand it right off of my directions to remove the tors. , it will cause the slide to make a vacume on top and not let it come down, making the slide stick open. the part i am talking about is on the carbtop with the needle,

Edited September 12, 2007 by luv2rideaz