luv2rideaz

let me know also when it is available. it does look like it may be something that is worth purchasing. also let me know how much it will be.

just a quick question, wouldn't putting it in gear be enough to stop the crank from rotating, or will that hurt something?

i was thinking of posting a question, but this is basically my question also...slipping clutch. i have an '06, 19cc domes, +4 timing, t-5's,2into1 foam filter,stock carbs with tors removed,v-force 3, vitos superstock pistons, running 100LL av-gas with power plus, i do 3rd gear starts on drags, and get plenty of wheel spin and have bought a 15 tooth front to help but it feels that the clutch is not releasing very well, i run honda hp trans oil 85w. i am thinking i need to do the heavy springs in the clutch also. if i change half of them with heavy ones, how much will it change the "feel" of the lever? how hard are they to change? special tools?

if i understand it right off of my directions to remove the tors. , it will cause the slide to make a vacume on top and not let it come down, making the slide stick open. the part i am talking about is on the carbtop with the needle,

how do you guys feel about 100LL av-gas? its like $4.00 a gallon, smells good too when it is burning

on stock carbs, there is a sight glass on the right side of the carb. at wide open, a BB will appear in the glass, and you can adjust the tops of the carbs to get the BB at the same position. for the bike to idle you need to use the idle screws that were put on after T.O.R.S. was removed. on outter sides of carbs. this is not as precise as the vacume tool, but will get you real close.

yea, i think i will get one, to be more precise about it. what i am talking about is the little sight glass on the sides of the stock carbs. it is only 1/4 inch round glass. when you raise the slides up, a little ball type thing comes into the sight glass. it is so you can adjust the slides so they are at the same point as each other. but the tool actually works off of volume of air, versus position of slide

i understand not needing to measure at wide open, but what i described, won't that put the slides at the same position? i am not doubting what you guys are saying, just not sure if i need to buy that carb sync tool.

im kinda new to this twin carb stuff. but i have been learning, my question is... the sync tool listed above, is it needed on stock carbs when you can use the sight glass on the carbs when the throttle is in wide open position and the little ball comes into the glass? thats how i did mine, if i am wrong please tell me. another question, i am at +4 on timing, should i go to +6. whats the benefits?

not sure how they are on a shee, i do have a shee, but also have a predator, and it is a loud pipe on my predator, i like it, but my dealer stopped carrying them for 4 strokes because the welds were breaking, also know a friend with a yfz, and his welds broke also. i think the dealer said they stopped making them because of this problem.

try this site....... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

try looking at this.... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

this link might help. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

not too familar with blasters, got one for a step son though, did find a few web sites you might find useful, they are.... www.blasterforum.com www.projectblaster.com www.everything2stroke.com www.blasterplanet.com not too sure how good these are, have not had the time to check them out too well.

a flywheel puller costs like 15 bucks or less. about the marks on the flywheel, did it mess up the magnet on the flywheel, next check the gap on the pickup coil (little black box on timing plate). measure it when the magnet on the flywheel is acrost from it. it should be between .015 to .020 (about the same thickness as a match book cover) here is a link to help http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html

here are a couple i found on blasters. blaster forum is a lot like here, but not working now, under construction. http://www.cpcustoms.com/ http://www.blasterforum.com/

i just put t-5s on my bike, you need to take the radiator hose off, and put the end with the wire wrap on it closest to the motor(the wire wrap should not be taken off, just flip the hose around) make sure it does not touch the pipes when installed, but it can be close, thats what my instructions said anyways. another easy mod is to advance the timing 4 degrees, a timing plate is like 35 bucks

just to add a bit to this, when i removed mine, i forgot to unplug the little black box up under the left fender which made it hard to idle. but when i unplug the emergency brake, it won't run past like 2000 rpms, i thought that when everything else was unplugged, i was also supposed to unplug the emergency brake plug with it plugged in, the bike runs fine. about syncronizing the carbs, make sure they respond at the same time when you first press the throttle, and go to wide open and there is a sight glass on the side of each carb, and a little ball looking thing will appear, you can adjust the two cables this way

its an 06. so far i put t-5s air box removed w/ 2 into 1 foam filter, adv. timing by 4 deg. , modquad head w/ 19cc domes, v force 3, tors removed, today i am putting in a billet impeller and vitos forged super stock pistons that are made by weisco. the reason i picked these pistons are because i eventually want to put a stroker in it, and will port it then. i run av-gas with power plus @ 40:1

allright, i found out which was pos, and which was neg. but either wire will fit it. here is the jetting faq http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html the part i am talking about is towards the end under the electrical section.

i actually checked the terminals, and they match up, same size. looked at the coil, could not tell which was a pos terminal, and which was neg.

i hope someone can answer this question. i have done a search and can not find the info i am looking for. on the banshee jetting faq... in the electrical part on the towards the end, it says that from the factory, they come with the orange positive wire on the negative terminal of the coil, and the black ground wire on the positive terminal. when changing these, it says you should go up 0-1 sizes on the main jets. now to my question, what is the reason for switching the wires, does it give a hotter spark? i am not understanding the reason that it would come from the factory reversed. i really appreciate anyones comments.