Mullet Man Posted December 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 you can use dustcaps. it just requires a tad bit more material removed on the a-arm or trimming just a little bit of the dust cap so it fits around the welds on the arms. and for the inside cap, it requires the hole in the dust cap be opened up just a little bit so it will fit over the steel sleeve and slid all the way to the bushing. the spacers i will get made will take up all the remaining open area! also, either a washer or dust cap is needed where there is a tiny gap between the steel sleeve and the frame mount, so there is no play there! i think a few pages back there are pictures from a guy who used dustcaps, he trimmed the dustcap a little bit to fit around the welds. looks good man! wait til you ride it, be a whole new bike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted December 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 what do you think about the height? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted December 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 do us all a favor and try some smaller jumps 1st lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawarriorman Posted December 26, 2006 Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 As far as the frame hitting the ground goes, take the shock off one side, measure the shaft travel (distance from the body to the bumper). Subtract that from the eye to eye distance of the shock. Take that measurement, and hold your a-arms without the shock in them so that the shock mounts are that distance apart. Thats where your a-arms would be if you bottom out softly. You bottom out hard, and you'll compress the rubber stop, and go further. Another thing, has anybody measured the camber before and after? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airtite Posted December 26, 2006 Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 I took the SHEE down to a track and did a couple of jumps and it held up perfectly (i dont have any pics), I bent my axle on the big step down but the front end never bottomed out once, I do need to spend sometime setting up the shocks to make it a bit more comfy but other than that its an awesome setup Thanks Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted December 26, 2006 Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 As far as the frame hitting the ground goes, take the shock off one side, measure the shaft travel............ Another thing, has anybody measured the camber before and after? or take the springs offf both sides and use your foot to push down the whole frame to see if it hits. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted December 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2006 (edited) Mullet Man, I went out tonight to put the washers on the lower mounts but saw there was only space between the bushing and mount on one entire mount and it was one I forgot to tighten good. The other mounts are tight on the bushings. I loostened one and tightened it again and noticed that with the nut off the bolt there is a small space between bushing and frame mount, but as as I tighten the nut on the bolt the mounts on the frame bend in slightly on each side and press up tight against the bushings. Im sure I would be better off with a washer in there but it doesnt appear like it would hurt anything riding like this since everything is tight. What do you think? not the bushing and the frame mount, but between the steel sleeve insert (what the bolt goes thru) and the frame mount. there should be about a 16th of an inch gap there. unless you are really cranking down on the bolt lol. you can see where the washer is in this picture http://i14.tinypic.com/437zwh2.jpg it should be like that on all mounts, unless like i said, you are really cranking down and bending in the frame mount tabs. i can clearly see the gap that i am talking about (where the washer is in the above pic of mine) in the pictures you posted on page 9. the washer hole should only be big enuf for the bolt to fit thru, not large enuf too slide over the steel sleeve. Edited December 27, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted December 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2006 I took the SHEE down to a track and did a couple of jumps and it held up perfectly (i dont have any pics), I bent my axle on the big step down but the front end never bottomed out once, I do need to spend sometime setting up the shocks to make it a bit more comfy but other than that its an awesome setup Thanks Mullet Man awesome man! i am very happy that you are very happy!! :thumbsup: i would really really like to see pics of your Banshee with this setup next to your YFZ! as well as some pics of the jump you hit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted December 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2006 lol, easy with the tools there! yeah, you cranked down on them pretty good! i imagine you would be OK like that. just not how i did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airtite Posted December 27, 2006 Report Share Posted December 27, 2006 awesome man! i am very happy that you are very happy!! :thumbsup: i would really really like to see pics of your Banshee with this setup next to your YFZ! as well as some pics of the jump you hit! here are some pics, I was wrong it looks like the shee is quite alot lower, but like I said it still seems pretty good on the track and with a little tinkering will be an awesome setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airtite Posted December 27, 2006 Report Share Posted December 27, 2006 front pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WNARACE Posted December 27, 2006 Report Share Posted December 27, 2006 Just wondering if anyone has found a good setting for the preload adjuster? I started all the way down and am working my way back up. At the bottom you max out the suspension travel fully extended, and it is mighty stiff. Let me know where you guys like them. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted December 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 (edited) Just wondering if anyone has found a good setting for the preload adjuster? I started all the way down and am working my way back up. At the bottom you max out the suspension travel fully extended, and it is mighty stiff. Let me know where you guys like them. Thanks i believe mine has 14 threads showing. front pic thanks for the pics!! and it looks good :thumbsup: do you mind if i save your picture of the front shot and put it into the write up on the 1st page? Edited December 28, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted December 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 I put the tie rods on and the front end is complete. I have to say I do not like how little the tie rods thread on to each tie rod end. Im worried Im gona rip one end off at the track saturday. LMAO read a page or 2 back in this thread, i gave some info about that. i have been fine with the stock ones so far but i recommend longer if you are more extreme then i am! and i recommend buying longer ones if you didnt get tie rods when you bought the arms. there is no reason to buy stock YFZ tie rods when you have the option of ordering longer at a decent price. i am going to eventually order some longer ones for peace of mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squish Posted December 28, 2006 Report Share Posted December 28, 2006 Ah see the difference in the shock angle. The setup on the banshee has more leverage on the shock. More travel that way though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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