Mullet Man Posted November 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 (edited) cool!! if you guys would, post info you have as you go along doing this!! if i have any more advice on this install, its test fit (eyeball the lowers) before cutting to get an idea, then cut some, re eyeball the fit, cut some more if needed and keep doing it that way until you get it nice and tight and the upper a-arm clears the shock. the shock should clear the upper arm by just less then a 1/4" or so (install upper arm 1st before tackling the lower arm) "ozosborne", i think you could do that but the cut you will be making on the lower will need too be extremely thin to end up with the thickest piece left over. i was going to try this also but gave up on trying to find a place to cut it for me. some grease will come out of the lowers also but grease isnt water, you wont loose that much. the grease nips will be fine, they have enuf room behind them where they wont come in contact with the frame! Edited November 20, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
205GTINUT Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Have you any idea why the 06 450 stuff wont fit? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 Have you any idea why the 06 450 stuff wont fit? Thanks. you know, after some more researching, i think i found out that '06 arms are the same as '04-'05. but i havent asked anybody that would know 100% for sure tho. they certainly do not appear to be different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin 2 stroke Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 so wuts the update on the ride how it handle on jumps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 so wuts the update on the ride how it handle on jumps its gonna be a while man lol. i live 180 miles south of my parents (where the banshee is). i will be back up there on Thanksgiving day. i usually only travel up there for work when i have too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 (edited) over 1000 views now, no other input? i guess this isnt as big a hit as doing just the shocks Edited November 21, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 21, 2006 Report Share Posted November 21, 2006 id love to offer you some input, but ive never dealt with any of these pieces except the shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 (edited) id love to offer you some input, but ive never dealt with any of these pieces except the shocks. i understand that. but, you seem to know a little bit about suspension. does it look fucked up, in anyway? lol Edited November 22, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 but, you seem to know a little bit about suspension. does it look fucked up, in anyway? lol No, I think it looks like a pimp setup. Next on the agenda would be some 450 spindles and brakes. Possibly the stem from an '07 so you have 9/8th's bars? truly a total 450 front end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 (edited) No, I think it looks like a pimp setup. Next on the agenda would be some 450 spindles and brakes. Possibly the stem from an '07 so you have 9/8th's bars? truly a total 450 front end. cool. why i ask that is, i'm not sure on ideal tierod too a-arm angles. thats what i was wondering about. but none of the ball joints or tie rod ends look stressed ( or "over angled", for lack of a term) at all in any position. all of the aftermarket arms i see on banshees, the tierod too a-arm angle is no where near what this looks like. update on pricing. i sold my stock arms and tie rods for $100. plus $25 for the replacement ball joint and $1 for a pack of 10 new cotter pins plus i forgot i sold my stock shocks for $50 back in April this brings my grand total down to $226 Edited November 22, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozosborne Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Was thinking of using a stainless steel grinder blade. We use the same blade to cut ally plates at my factory. Also cuts through mild steel like butter and leaves a nice smooth finish. Will probably do it over the december period, will def post some pics here. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 Was thinking of using a stainless steel grinder blade. We use the same blade to cut ally plates at my factory. Also cuts through mild steel like butter and leaves a nice smooth finish. Will probably do it over the december period, will def post some pics here. :wink: good deal man! its cake, you will see! just dont take too much material off, the tighter the fit the better! if you happen to come up with spacers before i do, let me know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 wait, what about the steel dowels that the original banshee arms ride on. they will be the right length and keep the chassis tabs from collapsing. then just use some washers to fill in. or maybe thats kind of un professional Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mullet Man Posted November 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 (edited) wait, what about the steel dowels that the original banshee arms ride on. they will be the right length and keep the chassis tabs from collapsing. then just use some washers to fill in. or maybe thats kind of un professional take a look at the pictrues again, they are in there, and have to be used. the spacer is needed to go over that dowel/sleeve, too make it more asthetically appealing. but i believe the dowel/sleeve takes all of the load! i did have to use washers, which you can see in the pics. the washer take up the space left by not using the lower dust caps. you cant even tell they are there unless you are really looking for them! proof, no one noticed them yet on here (i didnt say anything on purpose just too test that idea) Edited November 23, 2006 by Mullet Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted November 23, 2006 Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 ahhh, i see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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