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MX should be more low end? What do I need?


01bansheefox

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Desert racing and MX are completely different,

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really they are the same exactly, you just gear your bike tall so you can do 100mph before you have to slow down for the next set of whoops or a corner, really the only difference is you might get a half mile stretch before your hitting some more shit, the desert floor is not paved, like YOUR MX track is

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My thing with your motor is that as you say you starve it is that you aren't using it to it's full potential, which seems like an odd rcomendation to others. This is very similar to the trail friendly posts on the Cheetah Cubs. In order to make the Cub manageable it needed to be detuned to a state similar to that of a say stock jug mx ported 4mm. I just don't see any point in taking a purpose built engine and "detuning" it for another purpose when you could build an engine for exactly what you want much cheaper and in turn utilize the full potential of the engine. I guess what I'm saying is why use 60% of a 100HP engine when you can use 100% of a 60HP engine?

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Very good question. The reason I do it is because I look at it from a stand point of "Best of Both worlds, with little or no major modifications."

 

I still love to hve the full potential in the dunes but I like a little less power in MX riding. This engine combo really just cost me the price of the bike since it came with it. I did build a cheetah cub and did not like the power delivery that is why I went back to the stock 7MM stroker cylinders. They had better port timing in them. for what i liked.

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Last time I checked they don't have pit stops in the middle of a moto... how's the +7 motor goind more than 4 laps on a tank?

 

Mike

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I don't quite follow you on this post, what do you mean?

 

For the pics, where can I host them? I have never done that and do not know how.

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What I ment was duncan racing makes awsome low end & mid range MX motors.I don't think I'd have a drag motor built by him though. It just came to my mind when you mention MX motors 7/mm low end motors duncan racing makes a 5/mm national /port kit suppose to be awsome. Just thinking out loud sorry.

Edited by lonestar
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For the pics, where can I host them? I have never done that and do not know how.

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You've got a lot of options. Any pic hosting site. Here's a few:

----->Tinypic,com

----->Photodump.com

----->Bikepics.com

 

Tinypic.com is what I've been using lately. It's fast and simple and you don't need to sign up for anything (you have to sign up for the other two). You're only suppose to use Bikepics.com if it's ATV/motorcycle related. And photodump tags all of the images you upload which kind of sucks. Hope this helps...

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To me one of the best MX motors I ever built was a 12 port 4mm RZ motor. You will never find a motor that pulls this hard in an rpm band like this. Vicious power, but docile down low also. I have a pretty well set up Banshee as far as MX goes, but have a 250r geometry bike on it's way this week, so we will see.

 

Little hint for MX, get in shape.

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I've done pretty well with my setup spanking built yfzs 450rs and even the new quadracer 450.

 

I have a mild port job with single 35 mm carb, dynoport pipe, pro design heads with 180 psi, v-force reeds, and a k&n. The thing pulls like a 250r and still screams like a banshee. The top end aint the best but it still screams and accelerates insanely.

 

I recommend the 2 into 1 pipe and carb 100%. Its more reliable and the power is just awesome. The best thing about the carb is that its so much easier to rejet. So when you can easily rejet and have the jetting right on you will have more power in the long run than dual carbs. Plus it will make it a lot smoother, which is what you want.

 

You dont want incredible lowend power though because if your riding it correctly you shouldnt have it low in the rpm range anyways. The main thing with banshees is throttle and clutch control. You get that down and you will do allright.

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