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Posted
3 minutes ago, ginger said:

since the guy before had you running crappy oil, and the wrong mixture,  what spark plugs are you running?  and did you gap the plug? 

I'm running NGK br8es I asked the fella at the shop how should I gap these and he said they're good the way they come

Posted

you have the right plug, but he is full of shit on the gaping.  most local shops dont know shit about banshee's.

 

The gap is way too large from the factory, and needs to be brought to around .020 so you have the right heat in the spark. 

Posted
1 minute ago, ginger said:

you have the right plug, but he is full of shit on the gaping.  most local shops dont know shit about banshee's.

 

The gap is way too large from the factory, and needs to be brought to around .020 so you have the right heat in the spark. 

Okay, good to know. 020 inches? How do you guys measure that? You got any tricks? Like a penny or something handy like that?or  would I need a caliper to do this?

Posted

Feeler gauges or a gap tool, they are dirt cheap at any autoparts store.  In a pinch you could use a matchbook cover but anymore those are pretty damn rare

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Thanks guys, gonna pick up some feeler gauges or a gap tool when i pick up the compression tester. Just saw a video on how to do it, by southernbanshee he pretty much makes videos for everything. & he said to make sure the tester has the little valve or it won't work because it will let air back out and not let it build with a couple kicks. So I'll be looking out for that, hopefully I can find everything at the nearest auto parts.

 

Will post results of compression test in about an hour or so

Edited by Rawnold
Posted

yes needs the check valve and correct adaptor.  I take both plugs out, screw the gauge into 1 of the cylinders, hold the throttle wide open and kick the ever living hell out of it until guage stops climbing.  remove switch sides and repeat

Posted
53 minutes ago, rubberneck said:

yes needs the check valve and correct adaptor.  I take both plugs out, screw the gauge into 1 of the cylinders, hold the throttle wide open and kick the ever living hell out of it until guage stops climbing.  remove switch sides and repeat

On my way home now. Should I leave one side plugged while I test the other or it doesn't matter? Also should I do it with the key and ignition on, fuel on or off? Or is all of that irrelevant?

Posted
3 minutes ago, Rawnold said:

On my way home now. Should I leave one side plugged while I test the other or it doesn't matter? Also should I do it with the key and ignition on, fuel on or off? Or is all of that irrelevant?

ignition key wont matter,  keep both plugs out of the motor, that way it kicks over easier.  same with the fuel. 

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, ginger said:

ignition key wont matter,  keep both plugs out of the motor, that way it kicks over easier.  same with the fuel. 

 

Gotcha, as for the fuel? Don't really get what you mean? On or off? 

Posted

Alright so I just did the test, left side wouldn't go past the 30s, left side shot up to 180 and wouldn't go past that.

 

does that mean my left side is blown? I tested it twice 

Posted
Alright so I just did the test, left side wouldn't go past the 30s, left side shot up to 180 and wouldn't go past that.
 
does that mean my left side is blown? I tested it twice 

30 isn't good. But 180 is really high for stock exhaust porting and stock head volume.


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Posted

I don't have anything stick to compare it to but I think stock static compression should be around 130 psi Fresh. Anything less than 80 or 90 psi is getting pretty worn.


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Posted
Just now, spurdy said:

I don't have anything stick to compare it to but I think stock static compression should be around 130 psi Fresh. Anything less than 80 or 90 psi is getting pretty worn.


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pretty much.  

 

most guys are between 115-130 without any mods depending on a few other factors.

 

 

im going to say the one piston is toast.  only way to confirm it is by pulling the head. 

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