camatv Posted July 31, 2015 Report Posted July 31, 2015 him this has me thinking. how thick dia wise are the stock webb's? comapred to an aftermarket one.. i would rebuild an old TDR fordged or if you can find it an old hotrods 10 mill webb. Quote
registered user Posted July 31, 2015 Report Posted July 31, 2015 Anybody with half a ounce of engine experience knows moving the pin 5mm further out on a oem crank is a foolish idea. Gravel whats your excuse ? Quote
ban565 Posted July 31, 2015 Report Posted July 31, 2015 Twistercrankshaft billet crank is another option. Quote
Tony Doukas Racing Posted January 26, 2016 Report Posted January 26, 2016 thats a Wang crank with different outter bearings and rods. the center section is still the cheap taiwan bearings. $800.00 TDR Crank I buy just the webs and they are completely assembled with max load bearings. TZ as an option. Welded and pinned in the center. Quote
registered user Posted January 27, 2016 Report Posted January 27, 2016 what brand webs would you be willing to sell ? Quote
camatv Posted February 11, 2016 Report Posted February 11, 2016 that looks like forged crank yo Quote
Craig B Posted February 11, 2016 Report Posted February 11, 2016 Yeap! thats what I had mentioned at the top of my post forged crankworks. (I had to double check lol) Just saying you cant go wrong with billet if you got the dough! but my 10mil crankworks forged seems fine.. to date Is there a big weight difference between the 2? Quote
sleeper06 Posted February 12, 2016 Report Posted February 12, 2016 Crankworks doesn't have forged webs anymore and they wanted 800 for billet webs Quote
registered user Posted February 12, 2016 Report Posted February 12, 2016 for the average joe I think the crankworks are closer to a G. atleast that's what they told me but since the webs are never the part that breaks it doesnt make sense to go that route. well unless your one of them geniuses that holds a impact on the flywheel nut for 5min and breaks the end off Quote
locogato11283 Posted February 12, 2016 Report Posted February 12, 2016 I have broken both forged and billet. If you're running a 10mm and under I'd buy a forged. Anything bigger than a 10mm and you're stuck with billet. Quote
registered user Posted February 12, 2016 Report Posted February 12, 2016 im guessing you meen the big pin in the center that connects both crankcases is what broke ? the only one I seen to fail in that area was a wiseco but even the higher quality stuff isn't immune to breakage. the chances that pin would break are very slim I would say but hell someone will probly win the lottery this week so it could happen Quote
SOUTHTHIRTY Posted February 12, 2016 Report Posted February 12, 2016 I have a nice 10mill forged crankworks crank. 115 rods.. might be forsale soon. If anyone is interested 3 Quote
camatv Posted February 19, 2016 Report Posted February 19, 2016 i might be looking for another 10mm crank soon. Quote
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