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Porting cyls w/ racelogic template and 4mil short rod


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I planned on doing a gasket match, cleaning up the transfers, opening up any choke points, and possibly tweaking the roof angles. If I open them up at all will probably depend on how big the windows get after degreeing the setup with new pistons.

 

I'll have to check out that HJR intake!   

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Gotta' wait til the cylinders come back and the new pistons are in. Then we'll get to see the #s.

Hoping to have the 'shee back together by next weekend for the radar runs. I'm interested to see how this thing will do, and if the new Kold Kutter Kanadian ice screws work better than the regular Kold Kutters

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Run the cartridge inside those transfers. No point in doing this work on all the port openings when they can't really flow through the tunnels. Don't gotta get crazy but there is quite a bit of material that can come out and still be safe.

I was wondering about that, not sure where to remove the material from. Looks like I can pull some off the divider, but my question now is where to focus the flow? 

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A few thoughts so far... considering everything I've done so far is below the piston.

 

V force 4 reeds when installed make it look like opening the whole intake chamber, and contouring the flow off the roof past the reed stops is beneficial. To add to that, I was running reed spacers and am not worried about extra volume.

 

Direction of the crank spin acting like a fan and counteracting the direction of flow coming from the intake flow bias on the intake/upstroke.

A possible point to this is not making the intake bridge as narrow as the template, thus breaking wind (lol!) around the rod making a low pressure area behind the bridge, creating turbulence that'll compliment the reciprocating stroke and stuff the transfers better. 

If it works out how I imagine, this will make the boost port more active, and the "Boyesen" ports should be more or less directed towards the boost port in the intake to keep the transitional flow away from the reed tips.

 

Things I may do:

 

Radius the top edge of the intake port significantly on the cylinder side to allow some of the flow to follow the draft of the piston. Not that it may mean much between the reactionary movement of air vs. the actual movement of the reciprocating assembly. 

 

Redirect the flow of the " Boyesen" ports by opening up the transfer side in a way to direct them at the boost port, and keep with minimal intrusion into the intake.

 

Radius the outside of the intake ports in the cylinder to create a draft around the cylinder walls.

If the timings work out right it could cause a static condition where the downstroke creates/amps the boost/transfer stuffing. This could further accentuate the aiming of the "Boyesen" ports.

 

I like the radius on the inside of the transfers for the most part. If the degreeing of the assembly demands that I move the transfers, I will probably follow close to that radius. When removing material from the transfers I plan to focus on the bridge, upper outside wall, and the roof.

 

Where the flow front should collide in the cylinder is still a mystery???

 

And yes I have Pro Ciricuit pipes... but damn this thing hit in the mid to upper RPMs! My friends think I'm nuts for doing this.

 

Any thoughts and corrections are welcome! This is my first time porting, and I'm doing my best to understand the fundamentals. Plus I'd like to show up a few dedicated straight line guys with my badass... stock looking, trail rig! Next thing I do is LEDs!

 

I

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Nay on any form of boost bottles.

X2. Good for nothing. Get a nice set of intakes and be done with it. Make sure they are matched to the vforce reeds. As for the ideals of angling the intake to focus on the boost ports and the intake ports to obtain the "flow" you want, that's all in design. If you believe in what you are doing have confidence and go with it. If it performs to your liking then you did a great job. I've seen hack jobs feel like they run very well...never for long but nonetheless you seem like you are doing very well for a first timer. Congrats. Keep at it, as I said you are not an engine builder, no need to chase big dyno numbers. If you are satisfied at how well it runs then you accomplished exactly what you set out to do. Everyone does these different and most won't give up any "secrets" anyhow so any opinions you do get wil likely differ. I hope you do find help and I wish you all the best in this venture.

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Did you do exhaust yet? Those tunnels need some opening up biggest choke point is rite there make sure bottom side is bigger than port entries and you will retain velocity I stagger my transfers on non drag apllications , I have felt big differences in throttle responce and roll on

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I haven't done anything with the exhaust, or the transfer tunnels and windows yet. Decided to wait until after the jugs and pistons come back, and the degreeing is done.

You're porting it AFTER boring it? I wouldn't recommend that for a new guy. Or maybe you've done several. .i didn't read the thread.

 

Sent from a van down by the river

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