SAVAGE420 Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Those are long SOB's. Not sure what to tell you now..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 looks like money well spent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Those are long SOB's. Not sure what to tell you now..... They'll work. Just gotta mod my nuts. looks like money well spent! For sure. I got a killer deal on them because I know the guy that owns BansheeHQ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaegerEliminator Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 How would that mess up the camber? Camber is already set. I just need a thinner nut. I had about 1/2"-3/4" of clearance with the Elkas. The rezzie on them is 1" shorter. On my Laeger setup I can adjust both caster and camber. Do yours offer these adjustments too? They look like they do from your pics. Mine came with three different oval bushings to adjust the caster attitude, then I can adjust and dial in the camber by adjusting the jam nut between my tire and a-arm then tighten it with the oversized lock nut like yours on the reservoir side. This leaves me with a couple of threads showing on the reservoir side. It looks to me that if you ever want to adjust your camber for a more negative setting that you could have further issues. Same with the caster settings. I would be very hesitant to run a thinner nut on there. There's a ton of potential force on that nut imo... I'd start raising hell with your source if it was me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 On my Laeger setup I can adjust both caster and camber. Do yours offer these adjustments too? They look like they do from your pics. Mine came with three different oval bushings to adjust the caster attitude, then I can adjust and dial in the camber by adjusting the jam nut between my tire and a-arm then tighten it with the oversized lock nut like yours on the reservoir side. This leaves me with a couple of threads showing on the reservoir side. It looks to me that if you ever want to adjust your camber for a more negative setting that you could have further issues. Same with the caster settings. I would be very hesitant to run a thinner nut on there. There's a ton of potential force on that nut imo... I'd start raising hell with your source if it was me. Mine does not have caster adjustment. Actually, the force is on the skinny jam nut. If you think about it, there isn't any force on that lock nut unless the suspension is full extended. The force comes from the suspension under compression when the top of the spindle is pushing the ball joint in towards the frame. To me, a bigger nut should be used on the outside, but every Laeger pic I have seen has it set up the way I have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAVAGE420 Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 ALL Clear now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 15, 2012 Report Share Posted October 15, 2012 ALL Clear now? Yep, just barely. I think I'd have to have an 18 "+ shock to have no issues at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaegerEliminator Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 Mine does not have caster adjustment. Actually, the force is on the skinny jam nut. If you think about it, there isn't any force on that lock nut unless the suspension is full extended. The force comes from the suspension under compression when the top of the spindle is pushing the ball joint in towards the frame. To me, a bigger nut should be used on the outside, but every Laeger pic I have seen has it set up the way I have it. The cast grey colored inserts that your upper ball joint threads run through on the a-arm can be exchanged for different inserts with ball joint hole placed at a different offset instead of centered like yours. This would allow you to adjust your caster with your a-arms. I need to figure out how to quickly post pics from my phone to show you. I don't see pics of them on Laegers site. This must be the $50 upgrade option. I see your reasoning on the forces applied under compression. My way of thinking is that the pressures exerted while cornering through rough terrain or a harsh landing while turning would create a greater force trying to "pull" the top of the spindle. I suppose your wheel offset could have a large effect on this too. I can see this could be argued either way. It would be nice to have some engineering data on this. Just my $0.02 It looks like you are running 3/2 wheels? Why not use 4/1 wheels with +3" arms? Wouldn't this give you better overall handling and suspension feel, maintain your same width and have a very minimal impact on weight? Is your new thinner nut a lock nut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted October 16, 2012 Report Share Posted October 16, 2012 The cast grey colored inserts that your upper ball joint threads run through on the a-arm can be exchanged for different inserts with ball joint hole placed at a different offset instead of centered like yours. This would allow you to adjust your caster with your a-arms. I need to figure out how to quickly post pics from my phone to show you. I don't see pics of them on Laegers site. This must be the $50 upgrade option. I see your reasoning on the forces applied under compression. My way of thinking is that the pressures exerted while cornering through rough terrain or a harsh landing while turning would create a greater force trying to "pull" the top of the spindle. I suppose your wheel offset could have a large effect on this too. I can see this could be argued either way. It would be nice to have some engineering data on this. Just my $0.02 It looks like you are running 3/2 wheels? Why not use 4/1 wheels with +3" arms? Wouldn't this give you better overall handling and suspension feel, maintain your same width and have a very minimal impact on weight? Is your new thinner nut a lock nut? Ohh OK. I don't need anymore adjustment. In fact, fuck all that shit. I put these on and they were set in like 5 minutes. Yea, they are 3/2 wheels. That's what I have always run. I guess I could have gone with a +3 arm and the 4/1 wheels but it's a little late now and I didn't know I'd have to deal with all this. I'm not sure I would ever notice the difference hillclimbing the bike. The bigger nut came from the hardware store and the jam nut is the one that came with the arms. No, it's not a lock-nut. I am going to loosed it up and put some blue Loc-tite on the threads. I seriously doubt it will go anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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