davidr Posted February 12, 2014 Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 The best I could get it to do was plant good then 10/15 ft n start hazing the tires .... heck I tried everything I could think of gone set it up like the other bikes I have messed with 2.86 with my normal baseline n go from there hopefully that will work n ill know what has been whipping my ass... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 The best I could get it to do was plant good then 10/15 ft n start hazing the tires .... heck I tried everything I could think of gone set it up like the other bikes I have messed with 2.86 with my normal baseline n go from there hopefully that will work n ill know what has been whipping my ass... That's a good tidbit of information. IMO, that's where the lock-up is probably fully engaging the clutch. You have to find a way to slow the clutch or lock-up engagement down. You have 2 or 3 answers already & there's a few more ways to skin this cat. Sorry, but I don't have the time or the patience for the keyboard explanation. LOL! Talking about the few other ways to skin the cat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidr Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Lol thx for the input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Less weight and/or it's time to start cutting springs. I had a set of 2.68 straight cuts in my oval bike for 1/2 mile track last year. I am not slipping the clutch the way you would in a drag race but I'm using load of the bike to slip to the RPM where my bike comes on to the power out of the turn. But when I messed with the 2.68's last year I actually had to take quite a bit of weight out and I even dabbled with cut springs with a decent day on the lake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 (edited) why would he cut springs and effectively lower his base pressure? im just asking as it sounds like sudden lockup of the clutch is the problem. im guessing that lowering base pressure will allow the clutch to slip a few more feet before locking up and maybe that will have the bike moving fast enough to keep from hazing the tires? . it sound like he may have too much weight on the arms. would staggering the weight help? Edited February 14, 2014 by dozer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidr Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Trick I had it all the way down to 138 pnds of spring pressure n 8grams on the lockup p roly would of worked good on a prepped track but im setting this bike up for the street I couldn't find the sweet spot lol..... def don't help it was in the 50z either.... when it dries up gonna try with the 286 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidr Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 He'll I no I was light on pressure holeshhot the bike 3 4 times n steels blue as hell lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidr Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 Dozer I tried staggering the lock up wheight as well... I fell as if I tried everything... I think a bigger tire would solve it but dont want to go that route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidr Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 By the way thx for u guys input in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Most of the subjects I bring up now is based from feedback from HQ member's. This is a small part of what I received in a PM. "when i start moving my base spring psi down, What incriments should i move in? 5psi? 10psi? ect." First, I want to comment on moving the spring pressure down. The reason for a baseline is to try pressure changes lower or higher than what you have. I know somewhere in this thread or elsewhere. I stated the vast majority have too much base pressure. You never know until you start making changes. BTW this member did an excellent job of base lining his set-up. Now, what increments do you start to move your base pressure. I would say somewhere in the 10-15 lb. range. That's from the total base pressure weight. That should show a change in the 60' time, good or bad. This is the catch, the closer you get to an ideal base pressure. The smaller increments you want to use, in the 5 lbs. or less range. How do you know when that is? It comes from experience! Any questions, ask away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Let's say I drop my base pressure 15lbs and my 60' raises on 1 pass but lower on the next, how many passes are typically made to determine if it was a correct change on a single change only? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjatv Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 I am currectly running 80 lbs of base pressure with 4 springs. I want to go down to like 70 and see what it does. I dont really like the idea of cutting springs cause I feel they will never have the exact same pressure. What type of springs could I try that are weaker then stock springs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cce12 Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 80 lbs of spring psi with 4 springs?! Do you mean 80 lbs per spring? How are you getting that #?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjatv Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 I am getting that number by measuring the installed stack height, then using my spring tester, each of my springs are 20lbs at the installed height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Let's say I drop my base pressure 15lbs and my 60' raises on 1 pass but lower on the next, how many passes are typically made to determine if it was a correct change on a single change only? It took us around 3 years to learn the basics of clutch tuning with around 200 runs each year. We have been doing this clutch tuning over 10 years now. With well over 1,000 passes on asphalt, hill shooting & 300'. Plus, we have learned from tuning other peoples quads. I can't give you an exact answer, because it's going to be different for everyone. Tuning is exactly what an individual(s) put into it. It's not just tuning the clutch, it's chassis, carbs, ignition, gears, tires & etc. Some excel at it better than other's. To best answer your question, I'm going to use experience. The novice clutch tuner is going to require more passes than an intermediate tuner. There are very few veteran clutch tuner's & 2 of them are member's here. One keeps his mouth shut on it & the other blabs more information than he should. A veteran can typically figure out the changes in 2 - 5 runs in most cases! I'm not trying to discourage you or anyone else from clutch tuning. A good amount of time has been knocked off from your learning experience if you use this information wisely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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