Banchetta

Agree w/ both....Get the 2 into 1 for the absolute most torque and low end power...If you want a set of twin pipes w/ the most torque, then get the Pt's....Head mods are a great mod....Shortened swingarm is a must and strongely suggest it....Gear it up, +4 timing, boysen petals, cut the end of the air box lid (about 1.5" off the end so you still have all 4 clips)

I had a parts shee w/ vents in the lid. You must have the lid gutted out, because the vents are worthless if you don't.....

Damn Boony, you make it sound so simple and I'm sure it is, BUT I can't figure this shit out if I wanted to.....Put a carb in this computer then it'll make total sense....

Need a lot more info then that...What are all your mods?? Air box setup?? elevation?? Temperature outside??

Maybe Trinity's..... Frocash, where in NY are you??? I'm 4 hours from NYC..

Is the air box lid off??? Or cut?? Raise the needles to the 4th clip or even the 5th..Try both and go from there...Make sure he adjust the air screws for throttle response...Hold off on larger pilots until he does this...my friend took his larger pilots out and had better low end and throttle response..

Not sure about the downspouts....Is $200 worth it??? Depends on how much of an edge you really want...I can pull the fmf's out of the whole about 2-3 bike lengths and stay the same to the top....The Pt's can pull a higher gear giving more advantage of less shifting and pull longer....I'm glad I bought them and would do it again....I like having the edge and will pay more for it...It is noticeable, can't really describe how much....The golds have great throttle response if jetted right, but the Pt's are sooo smooth, powerband is in at the touch of the throttle. Its like a 250R, but w/ power.... One of the best things I like is the ability to work on the shee and the pipes are totally out of your way....

Amsoil 2000: 40:1

Your pulling the plugs after running it wot for a little bit right?? Tan is too lean, you want a brown color....you might be running out of fuel if its cutting out after a few seconds of holding it wide open....Its starts in 2 pulls w/ choke or w/o?? If it starts w/o the choke, then you might be too rich on the pilots, try a smaller pilot...what kind of sled are you running??? I know Polaris sleds run a lean needle. I raise the needles one slot and they usually tear better on the low end....

Agreed, but most people that port will also raise the compression back up w/ a head mod or smaller domes....What is the point of porting if you loose compression. The power you gain from porting will be lost in compression, so you should keep the compression up.....

You can gear it down in the back instead of gearing up in the front....Problem is, you can only go to a 40 steel in the rear and a 39 aluminum.....Also the front is cheaper and makes more difference.. It takes 3 teeth in the rear to = 1 tooth in the front.... Ex: 14/41 is the same as 15/44 14/41 =13/38.....

I believe they still only come in 22" tires which have sidewall roll when powersliding....when the tire rolls in the corners, they get inconsistent sliding and could surprise you and tip up on 2 wheels...The realtors are also a 25lbs tires where the razors only weigh 21lbs and stock weigh 18lbs....so that can be a big factor also....The mud sharks weigh 22 lbs and have a stiffer sidewall and come in a 21" size....I'd perfer those first, but it really depends on the rider, terrain, aggressiveness, ground clearence, etc.....I analyze shit too much, don't I.....

Do it, one of my best mods and strongely recommend it.. It'll make wheelies a lot easier and better controlled...Jumping, hill climbing, traction, handling, cornering, sliding is ALL greatly improved.....If I had only one mod to do to my shee, it would be the -2 swingarm.....

I just cut the end and not the underside...I only seen a 1/2 hp difference w/ a cut lid vs. no lid at all...There was a 4hp difference between a full lid and no lid.... Spoin: My K&N and flange fits w/ my lid w/ the underside still intacted.....

Sounds to me that you guys have swapped the bowls on the carbs. Only the choke carbs have bowls w/ the brass tube and tiny jet......If you swap the bowls on the carbs, then the choke won't work....You should be able to pull the choke and NO THROTTLE..Also make sure the choke tube is in place between the carbs and not cracked....as far as mixing the gas and shaking the shee, thats because some 2-stroke oils can actually separate from the gas when sitting and the carbs will pick up the oil first and foul the plugs.... Oh ya, what kind of pipes are some of you running and what size pilots??? I know pc pipes will start hard as hell w/ stock pilots and need larger pilots...

You have to join to view the pics.......

No matter what you do for jetting, you will always have more power in the winter then summer. Winter air is colder, denser, less humidity which = to more hp and better throttle response...you can help a little by adjusting the air screws from winter to summer, but won't be exact power.....

I've used both and personally don't think it matters. You can take a set of plugs that are black and oily and run it hard in 6th for 10 seconds and get a pretty accurate reading....A new plug needs time to color as well as an old plug needs time to color also, so personally I don't think it matters, but everyone has their oppion....some people like to do plug chops and others just read the tips....I read the tips and have done testing on the dyno to see where optimum power is vs. color of the plug.....A brown tip plug is optimum power, so when people say leaner is meaner.......Bullshit....

270 mains, raise the needles to the 4th clip from the blunt end, stock pilots, adjust air screws to throttle response..

Take the air box lid off or cut the last 1.5" off the end of the air box lid so you still have all 4 clips....This will help your low end... the box is very restrictive, let it breath...Does it start hard when cold?? how many kicks?? Try different needle positions and that'll help w/ your low end.. also adjust the air screws and let us know where you have the best low end and throttle response. This will help us also..

I do a lot of sand pit riding and trails of your description....I know what you mean by the nice instant power on demand and great pull. I used to own a set of Golds. I sold them to my friend after I bought my Pts so I had a good comparison between the two shees and pipes....The Pt's come in a slight earlier and smoother, not by a lot, but enough to make and feel a difference. The tire spin is less w/ the Pt's...As far as top end, they are the same, but the Pt's will get there a hair quicker....You can also pull a higher gear w/ the Pt's....If you love your fmf's, for the reasons your giving, then you'll love the Pt's even more....Don't get the Pc's, they are not for your type of riding....My .02 anyways...

Fatties for fast riding and mods.....

Then try the 2nd clip from the blunt end..

Pull the motor, remove the cylinders, and flush the lower end out w/ mixed gas....Pain in the ass, but has to be done...

Works are cheap because most people buy non-adjustable shocks....Get adjustable front shocks and they cost just as much as any other company....I have works and love them, my friend has Elkas and they work just as well....I haven't felt any difference between the 2....