Banchetta

Try a smaller pilot, sometimes you get the opposite affects of what you think. Try a smaller pilot, raise the needle one clip, and run it wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, shut it down, pull the clutch in, coast to a stop, pull the plugs...they will look different.

I'd start w/ a 330 main, needle in the middle clip, stock pilot and go from there..

You will never find 2 people that will read a plug the same...I read the straps which tells you your heat range...The insulator is your timing...To me, the insulator is worthless....but thats me, I'm not saying who is wrong and who is right, My builder reads the outside ring....I don't agree w/ him, but he has some of the fastest and reliable drag shees in New England so hes doing something right, but it all comes down to how clean your motor is buring all the fuel...Any builder will tell you that your shee will run optimum at 1180 degrees before melting...This is where you will get max hp and best operating temp for the exhaust pipe to work...A lot of people say the strap is false, but I've never melted a piston and always yielded the most hp on a dyno even though my jetting is done and adjusted in the field....Just thought I'd share some info...not trying to debate, but shine some light on the subject of my personal experiences.....

Fixitrod is right on....swapping the coil wires has absolutely NOTHING to do w/ overheating problems..My guess is that you put a mod on or pipes and never jetted it right or at all...This will lead to a meltdown....either that or your water impeller is broke, which is a common thing....If I was you, I'd take this advice that your problem has not been fixed and you might want to look further before any damage occurs..

Flush it out w/ premix gas.....pull the motor out, fill the lower end w/ premix, swash it around, dump it out.. do this about 5 times or until it comes out clear...The first swash will be a gray color...After he sees that, he just might open up the lower end......

I can't believe no one has figured this out....Your pilot is too big...You must be running a 27.5 or most likely a 30 pilot...It starts great when cold, because your shee requires more fuel when cold. Starts hard when warm because its too rich and your flooding it out, thats why opening the throttle will help it start, your giving it more air and changing the air/fuel ratio to whatever the needles are allowing at 1/4 throttle.....Lower your pilots...you should have to use the choke when cold, and will start up great when warm w/o the choke....

I would keep the reeds for now and go to a2 into 1 exhaust for the MOST low end power w/ the broadest powerband....

upper arms for the raptor, new tranny, and front and rear bumpers....for a raptor..

Looks rich for me, I'd drop a couple of sizes and redo the plug test....

Starting problem...are you using the choke w/ no throttle?? If so, then did you make sure you didn't swap the carb bowls? Is your idle too low after its warm? The small crack will affect low end performance and will get bigger if you don't fix it....

Agreed....

sredish is right on, sounds like the jetting is pretty close to me, but I'm not there and areas vary w/ jetting....Do a plug chop, but I'd check the cooling system first, make sure its full of antifreeze and check the water impeller....If the impeller is fine then feel the radiator to see if its getting hot, that'll insure that its circulating..If the cooling system checks out, then do a plug test and go from there.....

Set it to the same as the other one.....If it doesn't start, then check the choke tube...or a stuck slide that is wide open, you can check that through the air box w/ a flashlight..

I'd say start w/ a 165 main, needle 2nd clip from the blunt end, cgl needle, 42-48 pilot.....This will be a close starting point. I'm running a 4mil stroker w/ 35mm carbs...

Going from a 48 to a 42 is only 2 sizes....Jet sizes go from 50, 48, 45, 42, 40, 38....etc..The lack of response will change a lot when you go down on the pilot. Try the pilot first, then adjust the air screws, make sure the carbs are in sync...let me know how it goes after..

Sounds like a kinked cable or the slides could be in backwards.....

If you were low on gas, the that'd make it rev higher also, the motor will get the air from the jets....anyone that has ever ran out of gas will know that the motor will spike up in rpms just before it runs out......

I'd throw a 42 in there and try that. As for the main, run it wide open for 5-10 seconds in 6th gear, shut it down, coast to a stop, pull the plugs...Look at the strap, if its black, then your too rich, if its tan or white, your too lean...you want a dark brown....If the curve of the strap is black and the top is brown, then your optimum w/ safe runnings up to a mile wide open...

Indubitably is right on, also some pipes require less fuel at certain throttle ranges, this where the needles, pilots, and mains come in....You wide open throttle will want more, but the mid-throttle might need to be less....Ex: my mods at the bottom are 300 mains, needle 5th clip, and stock pilots. I just put a stroker motor w/ porting in it, Now my jetting for stock carbs is 380 mains, needle 1st clip and stock pilots......every motor is a little different w/ different combos so you have to fine tune the jetting to YOUR bike...Jetting is an art and can be figured out w/ trial and error...Its a pain in the ass, but the results are well worth it and have great gains from bottom to top....

Pilots are way too big...Drop 2-sizes right off, then adjust the air screws to throttle response....You'll notice a huge difference in throttle response..then you still might have to drop another size or two...trial and error. find the best pilot size for you...at least you know which direction to go now.....

My duncan racing clutch required 3 stock and 3 of theirs....Pulls easy, thats the bonus of that clutch....but you pay for it.....

You could also try spraying some wd40 or starter fluid around the intake and carb boots to see if it revs up. If it does, then you have a leak....

magicracing.com.....I think the pilots are $4/ea., but I think the mains are like $2, but I could be wrong....You can shop online 24/7. Thats the best thing I like about them....

how do you tell the diff. ? like a dummy i did both carbs at the same time . today i cleaned my carbs and put in some 300 mains in helped a lil but still ran like shit , BTW the plug wires are ok . i pulled the lid off the air box and hit seemed to rev better but i didnt get to ride it like that . im waiting for the 27.5 pilots shop didnt have any. it starts easy and idles good just when powering into it , it craps out .. sounds like chit too .... jeff On some models, the choke carb bowl will have a brass tube only. The newer ones have brass tubes on both, but only one bowl has a little jet in the bottom of the bowl for the choke....Idles good and starts good, but falls off after.....Its one of two things...ONe, your tors is kicking in. Disconnect the little black box above the left exhaust, disconnect the parking brake switch, If problem still persist, then lower your needles one notch....Raise the clip towards the blunt end to lower the needles.....

You should have to use the choke to start it when cold, if not then your running rich on the pilots...A leaner pilot will also make it more responsive..Does it start hard when warmed up?? Have to give it some throttle to start when warm?