Banchetta

Agreed. Make sure your carbs are in sync, are you checking throttle response after the motor is warmed up or cold?

Stockers weigh about 5-8lbs more than they need to be and will restrict air flow...Get some decent tail pipes, shave some weight, let the headers breath, and you'll have yourself and really nice set of paper weights after... :thumbsup:

Ptr mids are expensive. 700 for bare and 900 for chrome....I'd watch ebay if your in no hurry , I see them on there all the time for around 300 bucks. Don't bother w/ a jet kit . Buy 280,290,300 mains, thats all you'll need. Also get a 15 tooth front sprocket. You can buy them bare and have them powdercoated for around 75 bucks at a local metal shop....

A responsive dune port.......only at high rpms. Jetting your shee will make it responsive ONLY at certain throttle positions, not rpms. Duning makes jetting a lot easier where you have open areas to jet....To adjust the needle, go sidehilling for a good 45-60 seconds in a certain gear at a certain rpm, change the needle height and repeat this, you'll see a big difference. This is a good way to dial in the needles if you have the area to do it....Dial in the pilots to how it idles, starts, initial throttle response...Dial in the mains to wot only....Click your shee into 6th gear and see how it pulls.....Can it pull 6th gear? Maintain rpms in 6th gear? Fall off in 6th gear.....change the mains 1 size and repeat the process. Find where your shee pulls the best in 6th gear....only do one change at a time....Only experienced people should change the needles, pilots and mains at the same time...I don't know of too many.

I find they are both great carbs, they claim the 34's are better for throttle response, but I don't see it....if they are, it is very minimal..

Twisting the throttle like others have said, does absolutely nothing w/o kicking it over...If you snap the throttle open when kicking, then your allowing the carb to pull off the needle circuit which is why it is starting....not starting when warm is a sign of a rich pilot. Your shee requires more fuel when cold, that is why it starts up fine when cold, but once it warms up, its too rich....try a size smaller on the pilot.... readjust the air screw.

Years ago, I powdercoated my headers, they only had black at 1200 degrees and all other colors at 400 degrees. I tried the silver 400 degrees and the first 8" of the header peeled a few months later. So for everyone to know. 400 degree powercoat won't hold up....I'm sure higher temp colors are out now..

Save your money. If you were thinking of CPI, Shearer or Rocket, then I'd say yes there will be a big difference like I said on the cubs...But when you go to a more higher revving pipe, you lose the low rpm power and make the shee into a more light switch powerband....which enhances w/ porting..Going from fatties to T5's. Don't bother. There isn't enough difference to talk about. Where you gain on one end, you'll lose on another....

I highly doubt your too rich at all, I think you have other problems, is the choke tube in place between the carbs? I was running 300 mains, needle 5th clip, stock pilot, on stock cylinders, 165psi compression, boysen petals......fmf pipes usually run leaner than pt mids. Also make sure you disconnect the tors brain, you could have hit something during installation and if tors acts up, then it'll feel like a rich jetting.

Most replies on here come from people who only ran one pipe and even then who knows if it was even jetted correctly....I've ran both and jetted both. The fmf and T5 are nearly the same. The T6 comparable to the fmf sst's...The fatties are nickel plated which will tend to get surface rust unless you get them chromed.....Hard call, Personally, I'd get both and let yourself decide.....your jetting will be dramatically different between the 2 pipes, so make sure they are both dialed in separately... Fmf fatties 280 mains, stock pilot, needles 5th (stock reeds), Needle 4th clip w/ aftermarket reeds T-6 320 mains, stock pilot, needles 5th clip w/ aftermarket reeds. Good luck on your decision and let us know which one you choose.

I found on the pwk carbs that the bigger size carbs used almost the same jetting. Maybe one size larger for the larger carbs. You might have to get a different needle if the needle is maxxed out...

It really depends on what your doing w/ it...If your riding mx, trail, technical, the ptr's work nice w/ alot of motors. I run them on my 4 mil stroker around Maine and even tried them in Glamis, CA....I liked the Shearer and little better for duning, but not for woods... I just rode a 4mil cub this weekend w/ ptr mids...pulled like a train and works a lot better than CPI's for technical riding....He put his CPI's on though.....hang on. The thing ripped for dragging, but very difficult for riding. As soon as the power came on, the front end was up and that was w/ a +4 swingarm...

Whats up w/ the Honda in the pic??? Have you left us? lol

Shit, forgot about that.....I tried 28's, 33,34Pj and 35's on my shee. They are all the same exept the 28's....try the needle they gave you, if it seems to hesitate a little and you tried changing the needle clips w/ no luck, then try a richer taper on the needle. I don't know the numbers, but I'm sure Sudco could tell you what the next richer taper one would be. The larger carbs are broken down differently....the first letter is the taper...."A" being lean and "E" being rich.

The larger carbs are killing you...your shee can't flow enough air w/ just pipes to get those carbs to work efficiently enough...I dynoed a set of 34's on a piped shee years ago and lost 8hp from the stock 26mm carbs. The larger carbs will only work w/ porting...

300-320 mains, 27.5 pilot, needle 4th clip...

You must be running the same gearing on the mids as the fatties then....I run a 16/42 gear on the mids, w/ just 160psi compression....the fatties can't pull that gearing w/o dropping out of powerband all the time. A 15/41 gear is pretty good for the fatties.....The ptr will pull a taller gear and still pull harder on the bottom and will make up for it on top and will = out on top speed...I used to race my buddy w/ fatties. I'd smoke him off the line and he could never catch up, even on top...w/ the gears that I've mentioned.

You have other problems....Pull the carbs and clean them really well, make sure you didn't switch the slides from one carb to another. Cutaway should face the airbox...PC pipes usually like 270 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle 3rd clip, no air box lid or modify it...also make sure the choke tube between the carbs is in place. 220 mains are too small, it might run good, but it'll run even better w/ larger jets.

You have to be wayyy too lean w/ 145's....I run a 162 main, 42 pilot, DEK needle on the 3rd clip w/ my 4 mil......That hesitation you have has a lot to do w/ the CPI pipes. They are a high rev pipe and don't make any power down low...DO NOT adjust your mains to this...Check your plugs or feel how hard it pulls on top to check the mains....try raising or lowering the clips on the needles, this will change the richness at 1/4-3/4 throttle. I would also try a set of DEK needles...it'll have a richer taper on the initial throttle hit coming from the pilot to the 3/4 throttle....Sputtering like the choke is on is a sign of richness, hesitation and holding back is a sign of leanness...Your pilot will have an effect on throttle response as well as idle and starting...A lean pilot will require the choke even on hot days. A rich pilot will start up even at 40 degrees out w/ no choke but will start harder once warmed up...and you'll need to crack the throttle when starting.

I was running 380 mains, stock pilots, needle 5th clip in my stroker w/ a mx port, sea level, 50-80 degrees out...w/ ptr mids...The T5's like a little more fuel, but your humidity is higher as well as your temps, so you should be close depending on any porting.....I'd start there and work down. I originally started w/ 330's and my plugs were white.......(scary white)

I'm running perfect w/ 172 mains, 60 pilots, DEK needle 3rd clip w/ a 4mil, shearers, mx port....I find the PJ's need richer settings then the PWK's... Does it start easy when cold? Warm? Do you need the choke? I'd try some 175 mains and do another plug check.

330 mains, 25 pilot, needle 5th clip, remove the air box lid, or modify it by cutting the last 1.5" off the end of the lid so you still have all 4 clips.

I have no experience w/ the dynoport, but others on here in the past were around 240-250 mains...

I would think the 280's would be pretty close. Do a plug chop when you get there and let us know.

ptr mids, hands down, they have the smoothest power of any other pipe. Perfect for wheelies, trails, mx, sand pits.....Anybody can ride anything through a trail and clutch the hell out of it, but the ptr's pull hard, but smooth at a very low rpm right up to 8800rpms...you can lug the motor in a high gear and still have the powerband come in smoothly and pull harder and harder as the rpms climb.