Banchetta

the tors system is more than just the carb tops...the little black box is the central brain, you have a clutch switch which should be disconnect at a connection towards the radiator. There is also a switch in the thumb throttle which is only on some years and doesn't matter when you disconnect the black box....but if the black box isn't disconnected, then it will still be active and they fail all the time...they will create symptoms like rich jetting and when they fail, its at any point of time....The tors affects spark and I've seen it cut the spark off completely or sometimes make the shee act like a rev limiter, it'll mess w/ you and drive you insane, so try that first.

Sounds like the pilots are where they need to be...the needle circuit controls from 1/4-3/4 throttle. So I'd start there....I highly doubt you need to lower the needle...Raise the needle by lowering the clip to the 4th slot from the top and go from there.....BTW, is the little black box above your left exhaust disconnected??? (3-wire plug) If not, then disconnect that and try it.

Ditto, I'd also move the clip on the needle to the 4th slot from the top.

290 mains, needle 4th clip from the top, stock pilots.

I find the more all around pipes don't need anything more than a stock pilot, but the more high rev pipes need 1 or 2 sizes larger. Porting will sometimes tend to want a larger pilot as well depending on the porting....Cold weather conditions will also require larger pilots and help the shee start a lot easier... as for plug reading. I run it wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, kill it, coast to a stop, pull the plug and examine the ground strap...black is rich, dark brown is perfect, tan is lean....others will examine the inside porcelain, which to each and their own.

Strong mid, good high.

It might work now for the idling since its so cold out, but you'll most likely notice that it'll start hard and not idle once the weather warms up....I agree w/ loco...42-48 pilot range.....Your mains should be around the 155-162 range....Oil in the exhaust tips mean nothing...Its 30 degrees out...if your not fully on it, your exhaust temps will be low and the oil won't burn completely..I wouldn't go by that.

Did you pull the air box lid off or cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid? K&N? If not, then thats half your problem.

The single K&N has no restriction at all....I dynoed a shee w/ a single K&N and w/o the complete air box and seen absolutely no difference...Put the cover on the air box though and lost 4hp....He had 320 mains before the porting job, so he will have to be larger than that.

I'd start out w/ a 350 and do a plug test.

Most likely you need to move the clip down, but no one can say for sure exactly where you'll end up. Thats part of jetting. Trial and error...Try the 4th clip from the top, if it gets a lot better, then try the 5th clip.....when you get aftermarket reeds, you may have to raise it back up one clip depending on how much fuel your shee wants....find the sweet spot. You'll feel the difference...

Exactly, the low/midrange pipes have a lot smoother transition coming into the powerband......I ride wheelies from a dead start right into the powerband to the point where you can ride the edge of the powerband w/o any fault....the powerband comes in a lot earlier, but the hp is low, so you don't have that immediate jump in power. A lot of torque for acceleration, but low hp for smooth power. Best describe it like a 250R, but w/ power. :thumbsup: This is also the reason why there is so much tires spin on a shee...High rev pipes hit hard and spin the tires too much...low end pipes will come in smooth allowing the tires to catch and pull as the rpms accelerate....Its a different type of power and takes a good day of riding to relearn how to use it...Short shifting, lugging the motor, gearing it up, really makes these pipes shine...

Try lowering the needle one clip....I'd also try the stock needle and decide which is better....some aftermarket needles aren't that great w/ certain setups.

I'd try a 162 main, 45 pilot.

290 mains, needle 4th clip from the top, stock pilot

Did you disconnect the little black box above the left exhaust w/ the 3-wire plug? Disconnect the clutch switch on the handlebars as well?

JKJK's shee started to overheat a couple of weeks ago when we were in Glamis....First time his shee overheated...Next day, he melted a hole in the piston to find the o-rings in the head was leaking by. The compression was getting into the antifreeze and heating the antifreeze up....at the same time some antifreeze got onto the piston and "well" .....it wasn't good. I heard from a builder that he just started realizing the o-ring problems in aftermarket heads. Of course, this is his anology, but it made sense...He was explaining it to John and I the day before John's shee blew....nothing like a slap in the face.... As for jetting the cub....JKJK's brother was running a 48 or 50 pilot, CEL, 162-165 mains....He thought it would pull better if he went leaner, but wouldn't dare. (After his brother blew up) He has a 4 mil, cub cylinders from Dan at Patriot w/ CPI pipes and also ran them w/ PT mids..

Correct float height doesn't matter. The little needle valve that the floats move is sticking...Try blowing some air through that passage.. you might have some shit in there. A lot of times old gas or sentiment will cause this. Even a single grain of sand..

I read the ground strap and yes, they do look lean....It doesn't surprise me at those temps though....-5C is like 20 degreesF is my math is correct....You should be around a 240-250 main for around 50-80 degrees out. I'd be around a 260-270 for 20-40F.............This is at sea level as well...

Larger carbs have no gain w/o porting...

When you say the tors is removed, are you talking about the carb tops or the little black box? Disconnect the clutch switch on the handlebars? Your mains are way too small, like I said earlier, your not running rich, you have other problems...slides in backwards? Cutaway facing the airbox. If you removed the carb tops, did you install the new idle screws? If so, did one of them fall out?

No doubt, a lot of combinations and problems can arise to a blown piston, etc. Not even being the pistons fault...saying that, I've found that the cast pistons are just more tolerable to cold siezures, poor jetting, and hard abuse w/ the average hp....If I built motors for a living, I'd definately use cast...Just because the normal rider just won't take the time to warm the motor up slowly, jet it perfectly, use the right oil ratios, and keep the filter clean....I just came back from Glamis w/ 75 other people..the first night we got there, most everyone just pulled their quads out of the trailers and beat the hell out of them w/o warming up....I just shake my head knowing that over 75% of them are most likely using forged pistons...That one mistake just cost them compression lost...Do that about 10 times, and they will be down over 10-15 psi or more.....the more wear, the more of a chance of snapping a ring and scored cylinder....this is the main reason why I suggest cast.....Forged pistons are more for people who really take time and care in the motor and treat it delicately. Not to say you can't beat them. My 4mil will tell otherwise. Just knowledge and maintenance will go a long way...

Its a contraversy that'll get different results w/ different motor setups....the more mods, the better they help out.

Just for curiosity, how much hp and torque are you running to grenade the cast pistons??? I've only been able to run them under 70hp. Since my 4mil takes the 795 pistons, I was forced to use the weisco, so I can't say for sure how much the cast pistons will hold up over 75hp....

Duncan racing explained it to me years ago that the cast piston heats and expands at the same rate as the cylinders, where as the forged pistons heat up faster than the cylinders causing them to expand quicker....so if some knuclehead revved the motor up while it was still cold w/ a forged piston, it would cold sieze or wear the rings much faster.... After this being explained to me and after I already cooked about 5 motors w/ weisco pistons, I decided to go w/ Pro-x.....Rebuilt the shee, went 5 years on a set of pistons and only lost 3psi on both cylinders.....Rebuilt a buddies bike who insisted on wiesco, did a compression test, both cylinders were the same, ran some heat cycles, broke it in, still the same.....Jumped on his shee one day and throttle stuck when he started it up, killed it immediately.....got the problem fixed, checked the compression for the hell of it....Lost 3psi in one cylinder.....That alone was enough proof for me. Besides that, how many events I have gone to, to watch people get on to a cold shee and take off wide open w/ no warm up...or 10 seconds of warm up..... Moral of my story is......Cast pistons in a shee...wiescos suck. They are wayyy to tempermental for a shee...Forged pistons are lighter and that is why people go w/ them, but if you lose 3psi on one mistake, then everything you gain, you've lost....I've never had a shee blow up that I've put together w/ cast pistons, but I've never had a shee w/ forged pistons not blow up....I've owned 4 shees and I don't favor anything unless I see it for myself. I'm not saying cast are indestructable, I'm just saying I've had great success and performance over years of pure abuse.....Good luck