Yaxy

I just called Pro-Design and they do make RZ heads and domes. They are the same price as the banshee head. Mines on order!! :biggrin:

Why don't you buy a new set? I paid $180 last fall for 2 new 28 FS carbs. Chris

The RZ head is a bit taller and has more water capacity than the shee head. Also, the RZ has the thermostat hole. The front stud on both cylinders is farther forward then the shees leading to a larger water jacket on the front of the cylinder, this the heads are not compatible. If I could get a coolhead I would get one in a heart beat. I have already had my RZ head cut twice and it is somewhere around .035. With this cut I still have .050 squish. It would be great to have replaceable domes so I can get my compression higher. Chris

Dang, If PD makes a cool head for a RZ, I have to get one. I will call them this afternoon and find out. Chris

I agree with Decon. Suspension is one of those Items you get what you pay for. For a complete set front and rear the top of the line shocks will cost you about $1700 to $2000. Ideally make a bunch of phone calls to get the best price. If you can negotiate you can save a few hundred bucks easily. Chris

If you are going to keep the shee for a while buy good shocks. However, they are pricey and other than that the only negative is that once you run aftermarket suspsension you will never go back to stock. As far as I am concerned, they are necessary if you start increasing the HP. You will get quite a few opinions on what types of shocks to use and whatever yo choose will be an improvement over stock. Chris

To ream the spindles you need a tapered reamer. Basically you put the reamer into a drill and drill accordingly to the desired depth to accomodate your ball joint. Do you have aftermarket A-arms that require the spindles to be reamed? Chris

By looking at photos of the GRR pipes it appears that they would clear the powervalves on an RZ shee? Does anyone who has an RZ shee fitted these pipes to the quad? Thanks Chris

It sounds like you are in the ball park with a 270 as a main but you are way to rich on the pilot. On flatside carbs the signal is much better thus you do not need as much fuel. I have a RZ shee and a shee both full mods and I run 20 pilots in each with no problem starting or on the low end. FYI Chris

It sounds like you are in the ball park with a 270 as a main but you are way to rich on the pilot. On flatside carbs the signal is much better thus you do not need as much fuel. I have a RZ shee and a shee both full mods and I run 20 pilots in each with no problem starting or on the low end. FYI Chris

I agree with the port work first and then the carb switch. If you wanted to go aftermarket I rcommend 28 fs carbs. They perform very well and you can get a new set for under $200 Chris

If you are going PM me your phone number or send me a PM and I will send you mine. I will follow up with you all on my way out there on the 5th. Chris

It pays to be a good shopper. Don't buy from the first guy you call, make several and negotiate. When I bought my shocks several years ago I saved around $400. Be patient and play the game. Chris

2007 Banshee in Canada? Please post more detail. Chris

Thanks Guys, Currently I have the B/W off the PVCM hooked to the CDI. I found that this connection at needs to be made for the bike to run. The brown I am not sure of . I need to relook at my RZ manual and look at the schematic. Any other suggestions? Chris

Hey guys, I seem to be having a problem with my RZ Powervalves not functioning. At this time they are in the open position. The RZ is wired exactly the same as a schematic on this site with the exception that I have the B/Y wire from the Powervalve control motor going into the B/W of the CDI. The only thing I can think of is that I have a brown wire that is coming out of my Powervalve Control motor and my rectifier that are not connected to anything. Does anyone have any suggestions? PS: All elctronics were working when I purhased the motor. Thanks Chris

I agree, the HQ is valuable information source with many knowledgable people. Heck I have had my shee for 16 years and am still learning. Keep up the good work. Chris

I will be there 5,6,7 and heading home on the 8th. I will try to devise some form of HQ flag for the trip so we can meet up and have a few drinks!! Chris

Thanks everyone for your input. I think Sierra Sands it will be. Chris

All right guys/gals, lets see a show of hands on who will be in Silver Lake July 4th week! Chris

Agree, but while apart you might as well replace them. A week sounds kind of long. Typically yamaha takes 3 to 4 days max, So if you order on Monday you should see parts on Wednesday or Thursday at the latest. Call some of the Yamaha warehouses that are in the magazines. Most likely they have them in stock. To save some money, have them send them in an envelope with a 39c stamp. If they send via UPS your $3 parts are going to cost you $15.00 after shipping. Chris

I agree, however you do need to consider piston to cylinder wall clearance. As a rule of thumb, I change rings every 2 yrs and pistons every 6. The rings I feel is a bit of an orverkill but it has worked for the past 16 years. Chris

I hope you can ride for 2 to 3 days without getting bored. However, I will probably spend most of my time BS'ing, hittin on chicks and afterward getting toaked. :thumb:

Sheefreak, Thanks for the pics. I have decided to buy new ones. A good friend of mind is a parts unlimited dealer so I got them at his cost of around $100.00 a pair. However, thanks for your support. Chris

Black High Temp RTV is the way to go. Chris