camp0429

Yeah it will run, but like shit. I did it once, had my pods off and was syncing carbs and it wouldnt idle on its own or rev out. The slides started freezing. It was a duh moment for sure. There's been guys post on here with stupidly small mains and come to find out somebody tuned it with the slides backwards

You just named one of the symptons. It will be pig fat and wont idle.

Not a bad idea to replace plug caps every so often anyway and keep old ones for spares if their good.

Here's how well their made. This didn't even have an hour run time before we caught this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should need way more than 290's. I have a similiar set up ported with pods when I had stock carbs it ran good with 350's. Same pipes, stock stator

Stock carbs? If so the most common problems is choke tube missing, slides switches, or float bowls switched. Happens all the time

It's an endless debate on what oil to run, regardless of what you run, drain fuel and trans oil and replace with new, wouldnt hurt to go through carbs and clean real good and record your get sizes. Replace spark plugs, clean air filter, grease all zerks on front and rear. Compression test and leak down for shits and grins if you have the equipment. Go over wiring, some people dont know how to secure wiring where it wont get melted or rubbed. Oh and welcome to the addiction lol

UP-4200ST They are 51mm x 102mm This is the straight number, not sure if you want angled or not. I have these same ones and everything fits fine

I see

Nice ride, what's up with your rear hubs?

LOL

Stock carbs would be fine, PWK 28's would be better. First ditch boost bottle.

I got my wife's bike set up the same except with stock reeds, I'm at 27.5 pilot and 310 mains at a 500'. It is rich up top but runs good and is safe. Plug chopped it at 60 degrees

If it were me, I would leakdown test motor first thing, with the crank seals having no lubrication for this long it's likely they have dry rotted, if leak down passed, As Tricked said, pull head and cylinders and get a good look at the crank, hone and re-ring and go from there

I would not trust a $25 compression tester

My throttle came off a 250ex. Works great. I think the trx90 lever itself is longer

Honda

It's cool to see one all bone stock and shit that is still like new, but in reality, we all know bone stock banshee's suck balls. It's like the fucks on craigslist that got a bone stock bike for sale and want like half the new price for it because it's unmolested. I want one molested with all the junk bullshit off it

If you can buy a new banshee and leave it alone in a crate you have way more will power than me

Stainless steel pot scrubbers, steel wool whatever you want to call it makes a good packing material.

^^this too, theres guys on here that have more in just their motor than what you can buy a nice vehicle for lol

Just depends. figure maybe $500 or so at the very least for pistons, bore, seals, gaskets, and check out crank. Im terrible at setting a budget though, you start going well since it's apart lets do this and that, and so on. I got $800 in rebuilding my wife's banshee not long ago but that was with a new crank. But then you need to think about, again the little things, good idea to replace the throttle and clutch cable. Check out all your bushings and bearings related to the frame

Pull that motor apart, use ziplock bags and label everything, send crank and cylinders to shop of your choice. Farm and Sand Toys and Redline have a great name around here, I have used Precesion Powersports and they are good dudes as well. Have crank inspected, if it's good, true and weld it. The shop will tell you if you need a bore (most likely will) they will fix you up with pistons, gaskets, seals and such. Depending on your wallet, your at the point to make some choices, could go 4 mill pretty easy especially if your crank is wasted, could port it and so on. Check the little things while its apart, kicker idler gear bushing, clutch and basket, pancake bearing, water pump and gear First get a Clymer's if you don't already have one

You just found your problem. That motor is wore out or your tester is junk

^^done the same myself, take the lower bolt out of your carrier and you can swing it up out of the way, you'll see slots in the swinger itself where the bottom bolt has some room to move back and forth depending on chain length, just remove some material from the front part of the slots and you will be able to remove a link and move your chain farther forward