camp0429

Just set your idle until both carbs pull the same, also make sure slides are in sync

OP, not related to your problem but if your going to stick with pods you may want to cut them lower air box tabs off and wrap some sort of heat wrap around your stingers near your pods. Those tabs will wear a hole in your filters and the stingers will melt your outerwares.

Driveline

Sync both slides by eye by slightly moving your throttle until both lift at the same time, adjust by the adjusters on top of carbs. Make sure to tighten jamb nuts down when your done and re-check sync again after tightening them down. Adjuster on throttle unit takes up slack in the cable. You want some play but not too much. Sync with vacum gauge at idle, adjust idle screws to get both carbs pulling the same vacum.

Drag and trail set-up's are worlds apart

Not a banshee but dude is a hell of a salesman http://stlouis.craigslist.org/snw/5573969198.html

Buy a honda thumb unit and be done with it

Talk to Art at Precesion if you go with them. Good dude

^^well said

Where at in Illinois? Precesion Powersports is in Imperial, Mo. Just south of St. Louis.

Mostly trails

I've ran them since early last year, they've been good so far

Same thing I did. Bought mine a 400ex last year, she didn't like it, sold it and bought another Banshee.

I haven't looked in any hardware stores, When I bought my head I ordered an extra kit just to have. The Pro Design kit comes with all the little stud o rings as well, but those are not needed for the other cool heads.

I have this one ^^. No complaints at all. If you go with the Pro Design you have to switch out your head studs and use an o ring on each stud where the Driveline head you don't have to do either.

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Honda throttle ftw!

Them washers go on the top arms. It says in the instruction sheet where to put them. I cant remember for sure at what position does what, but I know it said for just general riding to put one washer on the front and one toward the rear.

Yep. That's what I was getting at. If cylinders are going to be sent out for porting, that's where the wait time is gonna be.

Most places are gonna be well past the end of next month before any porting gets done anyway.

Stock cranks will handle a shit load of power. If welded. Yours may be fine, maybe not. Think of how old that thing is and how many millions of times it's made a reveloution, shit wears out. Theres no telling unless it's actually inspected properly. Definatly not a chance I would be willing to take, especially since your only out a hundred bucks or so and a little more time

Nobody is sayin you definatly need a crank, were sayin pull motor, split cases and have that crank verified that it is still good and true, then get it welded to prevent possible seperation, more so critical when you add porting and compression. I rebuilt my motor a couple years ago, damn sure wasnt gonna slap a new top end on it without the crank being checked, everything LOOKED fine, come too find out both rods were bent and it had a bad bearing. Couldn't tell it had any issues at all. How do you think that would have held up if it wouldnt have gotten repaired properly?

Be a good idea to send that crank in for inspection/weld

^^ X2.beat the shit out of mine, it's been a good one

Do you have access to a cooling system tester?