camp0429

Black chunks of plastic or carbon/exhaust shit? What's the radiator cap seal look like?

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/135591-tors-removal-idle-screws-install/ Read this

Yes. The idle screws will go into the side of the carbs and the bottom of the slides will rest on them, this is what adjusts your idle rpm, idle has nothing to do with your throttle cable. You then will sync your slides to where both open at exactly the same time when you just barley open your throttle. You need to post pics of your carbs, it sounds like somebody half-assed shit and didn't do the delete correctly. You may need to get the complete delete kit so you can drill and tap your carb bodies for the idle screws. It's not hard to do and there are tons of post's about it on here.

You don't have to get a delete kit, you can just get a cable and 2 idle screws if you want since you already have the carb caps. Then all you would need is the throttle unit itself. Get a used Honda one on egay for about $20 and be done with it.

Yes you need a different cable for a thumb set up. The tors delete will come with a new cable and the idle screws you need. Go through tapatalk to unpload pics

Get you a tors delete kit, it will come with new caps, new cable, (for thumb throttle if that's what you want to run) and idle screws. Do not use the throttle cable to set the idle, there is not enough slack in the cable then and when you turn the bars it revs up. You can get a throttle assembly easy enough, you can get a Honda unit cheap enough and they are way better than stock banshee throttles.

Pull your plugs after it's idled, you may be able to see little drops of coolant on the end of your plug if that's what you got going on. I had a head gasket fail once, checked compression before I knew for sure the gasket was bad, I had like 30 more pounds compression than before. Just like you said it was blowing coolant out the overflow.

There probably is a place that will do it cheaper, but I'm saving the money I would spend in repairing these and putting it toward new, better shocks.

Works quoted me $350 to re-built, re-valve, and re-spring a set one time. Not worth it to me for $500 (new) shocks

Don't take that bike to any shop unless you got a well known shop close by that's known for Banshee work. Read through some of the horror stories on here for more details on that. We will be more help to you than most shops, not to mention your getting to know your machine which will come in very handy. For your high rev situation, you said you found a carb top had come loose, how about the adjusters on the carb tops? Make sure their not loose also. Did you sync your slides when you were working on your carbs? Pull your pods off and work your throttle, both slides have to open at the exact same time, if they don't, adjust with the adjusters on the carb tops. With your pod's off and your slides in sync, work your throttle wide open and make sure your slides are not sticking. They have been known to get dirty and stick. You could have an air leak causing a lean rev, leakdown test should rule that out. I never personally seen a lean rev so I can't comment on that, I have however seen the cable adjusters come loose and cause a high rev situation. Could also have a junk throttle cable sticking. I'm guessing you dont have a carb sync tool, I would suggest ordering one from Farm and Sand toys if you don't have one. Anytime you pull carbs for any reason, throw the tool on there to make sure your carbs are in sync, and anytime you mess with the carb tops you should make sure your slides are still in sync. It's well known that the throttle cables can stick, I always change mine every year or so and keep the old one as a spare. At the very least get a cable lube tool and lube your cable from time to time. Personally, I would throw that twist throttle as far a I possibly could, but that's a personal opinion.

Trucking companies are keeping older trucks to avoid aftertreatment mostly

Good question. I'm guessin not very many people, but according to the craiglist adds I see, most of them, or so they say.

Yep. And most every one has a fresh rebuild

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/snw/5515681685.html See Klotz really is the best oil. End of debate

If you go by Clymer's, it will tell you to align your clutch actuator up with notch on cases, that don't mean shit honestly. It's more a reference point, I've lined them dead even and still had the clutch dragging when it was pulled, most time the actuator will be to the right of the arrow (as your sitting on bike). But I have zero clues on the hydraulic set-up, I assume the pressure plate adjustment is gonna be the same as a standard cable

Modded shift start will make it 100x easier to shift and find nuetral. Clutch adjustment has a lot to do with neutral being hard to find also, and you said it wants to move with the clutch in when running. Probably needs clutch adjusted some. A properly adjusted clutch and modded star makes for nice smooth shifts

Sweet, glad you got it. Do a google search for plug chop with bansheehq at the end

Here's some reading to get started http://all-offroad.com/main/2014/03/overview-jetting-101/ http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/99344-everything-you-need-to-know-about-jetting/

Going back and re-reading your post's, everybody is telling you to go fatter on your mains for a reason. I understand you are probably getting frustrated and tired of hearing that, but again, everyone is telling you that for a reason. Reason being you will most likely burn that motor down with 260 mains. Even more critical in cooler temps. You need to start fat on your mains and work your way down if need be. I can't vouch for FMF's advice they gave you, I have never dealt with them. I assume they probably just punch in your info into the same chart that I posted, (which, again does not account for POD's) and tell you to go from there. I read where you posted that you had 270 mains installed and it ran even worse, but at what throttle position was it worse? I think you are getting confused on what jets affect which throttle range. I suggest you do some research on jetting and try to understand what jets affect what throttle range. For example, the mains we speak of are the primary circuit from 3/4 to WFO throttle, your needles are going to be the most important factor around the 1/2 throttle range, so by changing your mains and it running like shit at 1/2 throttle, you should be looking at your needle and not going smaller on your mains. You can mask overly rich or lean mains to an extent with needle position. But then again when you fatten your mains it MAY be necessary to lean your needle 1 groove. Maybe, maybe not. Every motor is different and everybody rides different. Bottom line is, every circuit has to work together to be happy. It may take a little while to figure out what your motor wants which is why you want to start fat and work your way down so you dont cook your motor in the process. If you do some research, you will find your pilots is your primary idle and just off-idle circuit, then your needle, then your mains. If your motor wont idle right changing out your mains is going to do nothing but have you chasing your tail.

This chart? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have seen the FMF jetting chart your talking about, not sure but I think it only accounts for stock airbox with lid or snorkel removed. It don't account for pods. It's reccomended to usually go up 2 sizes or so on your mains just for pods. Sounds like right now your issues are off idle or pilot/needle transition though

They all smoke, more so when their cold. Have you tried 27.5 pilots? Does air screw adjustments have any effect

You should need more than 260 mains with pipes and pods. Im around 500 feet, my wifes bike is basically like yours, stock port, pipes and pods, I got 310 mains and 27.5 pilots. It did not like 30 pilots it wouldnt even idle with the 30's. It runs good, probably a little rich up top, a buddy has the same set up as well with 27.5 and 300. Are your float bowls correct, choke tube on? Might be time to check out electrical

What elevation are you at?