camp0429

^^exactly what I was gonna suggest. We use time serts at work, far better than helicoil

I run 20" GBC XC masters in trails and do fine for me, not much hard pack though

Thats been on there for damn near a year

http://decatur.craigslist.org/snw/4933967980.html

Best advice that can be givin right here. Don't jump on the first thing you see

Slides switched possibly and someone jetted wrong? Just a thought

Silver duck tape sticks better than paint

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/snw/4877914516.html

I'm running VF4's, stock intakes, after rebuild I used 4 gaskets and still had leaks on both intakes, eventually had to use a little fuel safe gasket maker to seal. I hate using that shit but it's the only way I was able to get it sealed even with 4 gaskets

Mine was doing the same thing after being put back together after a rebuild a couple months ago, was fine before. I had the actuator lever aligned with the case arrow and no matter how the cable was adjusted it always jumped when I put it in gear. I finally adjusted the pressure plate to where the actuator is to the left of the case mark, also adjusted the eccentric bolt, and adjusted cable. Its fine now

Sorry for double post. Junk ass phone

I run 20" knarlys in the woods and for me, they do great for loose dirt and such. They totally suck if its a little greasy though imo.

I run 20" knarlys in the woods and for me, they do great for loose dirt and such. They totally suck if its a little greasy though imo.

No shit. Be nice if more people would do this more often

The biggest problems I've had with buying off Craiglists is it seems most guys don't want to get back with you if you call or text them. I bought my Banshee off Craiglists, but before I bought it I tried to contact 5 or 6 other people about the bike they had listed and never got a response. I know this isn't really the question you had but this has been my experience anyway.

Just kiddin dude. Shouldnt have a problem wheeling though

Rides of shame post comin up

3M makes a 3" round arbor and pad 1/4" arbor I think, it has velcro backing and they also make a 3000 grit round pad to go on it. I got a few from local parts store. I have used it in cordless drill or die grinder either will work. Make sure to keep it wet as it will burn the plastic. I had a set of white plastics that had a bunch of spots of some sort soaked through, followed the mentioned steps with sandpaper, then followed with A LOT of time with the 3000 grit, then polished with plastic resore. They came out pretty good.

Ok we got the 30's put in this evening, has no low end bog and fires up first kick. I think we got it. Thanks for the info

Thanks fellas, got a set of 30's yesterday, gonna switch them out in the next day or 2

The reason I was questioning pilots is because it seems to have a low end bog but I don't know how it ran before

Yep has brand new carb kits and choke rebuilt. Could it be such a thing that it just needs to "loosen" up? We took it down because somebody welded the front sprocket to trans shaft and was a little low on compression found it had vitos pistons and all measurements checked out so we put new rings and honed. Still followed proper break in. Might check the choke again though that's the only thing we haven't checked and rechecked.

Not sure on how much head was shaved. We cleaned flywheel and set gap when it was going back together. Has a nice blue spark. Have replaced plugs and gapped them also. Cleaned frame ground spark is great. Also set floats. Not sure what else to check like I said it runs great just don't like to start too easy

Bowl with jet is on choke side, choke tube is on and compression is 120 both sides, slides are correct

That's why we tore it down new glow plugs and injectors