fixitrod

I've been on since 98 also.

I cut 6 coils from each of my 35mm pwk's. Then I just stretched the spring back out. It's fine.

5 gallons $36 55 gallons $245 Big savings

It is a resevoir. I believe it was Holyman that proved it was. Anyway, move the bottle up to the front. Here's how http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html Then if it still is losing coolant all the time you have a problem.

I was at coalfest in all the rain. I had trouble too. Banshee370 had some pwc grips (jet ski grips) and I'll never use atv grips again. I used honda glue and saftey wire.

I have to say a 4 stroke is much easier to ride around a mx track. I been riding on some mx tracks lately and I kick ass on the straights... but that's about it. It's mostly rider on the track. I love the yfz450's. That is the closest you will get to both worlds of top end and bottom end on any quad out the door. You can really wake a yzf450 up by opening the airbox, taking the baffle out and adjusting the jetting to suite. That's about all you'd need to start mx'ing a yfz450. Jump a stock banshee and it's not going to be so easy on you. You have to shift and clutch a lot more on a banshee also. Now if you want to smoke your friends on straight, get and adrenaline rush just by hitting the gas and have just pure fun, the banshee is for you. It's also the easiest to mod. But, this is also just an opinion.

I would hope you have the crank out with the advice given. Kerosene is about the only way to clean the crank still in the quad. I'd take it out though to make sure everything is out of the crank.

There's a harbor freight in town that has them for 17.99. Thanks a lot. Now I just have to buy a head with high comp domes and the fuel.

Yes it does, thanks a lot!!!!!

Klotz doesn't sell them. I did find some on ebay and I'm gonna call tractor supply.

Any places that I can get these please let me know. I'm sure I can get one at Klotz which is where I'm getting the fuel. It's about 10min from my house but I can just imagine how much they want for one.

I'm looking at buying a 55gallon drum of race fuel. I was wondering how do you get it out of the barrel. Is there a cheap hand pump or something I can get?

Say hey from fixitrod also.

Solvent tank should be fine. Just lube it like everyone says right afterwards so it doesn't rust. Make damn sure the bearings are good. I'd have it check for trueness and have it welded while you have it out. It's worth the time and $$ to do so. If the bearing need replaced, do it now. If they go, it will take your new pistions, bore, head and crank of course. Not worth it.

I have a Rands sway bar for a banshee. I bought it used and never used it. It needs the mounting hardware (bolts and nuts) and should be good to go. $110 shipped U.S. I also have a set of 28mm mikuni flatslides that have two runs on them. I bought them brand new and did two jetting runs on them. I have them in the original boxes still. I rebuilt the motor after that into a stroker and now run 35mm carbs. I have about 7 or 8 sets of jets with them too. $180 shipped in the U.S. You can pm me or email me too. [email protected]

You did it right though. You didn't go to jail and you got to stay with your wife. He meet bubba I'm sure. Asking for ID was also a very smart thing to do. There's one thing you did mess up on though. You should have let your wife put her boot in his face while he was on the ground.... That would have been funny. Glad to hear your wife was just grazed and fate has taken you down the right road.

Sorry about confusing you on the guide pins/dowels. I was confused myself. They are used on the cylinders, not the head. Here's a pic. It's number 16. There aren't any on the head.http://216.37.204.202/yamaha_oem/YamahaATV...pe=13&A=115&B=4 My suggestion is just take it to a machine shop. I bet they'll check it for free.

No problem. lol

Here's ben's. It's painted expanded metal. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/front.jpg

Read #10. If that doesn't work, re-read #10. What he and I both said...

The head could be slightly warped. Make sure you are using stock head gaskets. They are the best. Have you check the torque on the cylinder bolts at the bottom. They are also suppose to be at 20lbs. If they are the same, the tops of the cylinders can get a slight bit off or cause a little movement if not tight. Do you have the guide pins in? Just trying to think of everything.

This is from www.ericgorr.com. You can read lots of great info there. You should read number 10. 10 TIPS FOR REBUILDING A TWO-STROKE TOP END 1) Before you disassemble your engine, power-wash the engine and the rest of the vehicle. That will reduce the risk of dirt and debris falling into the engine. Once you remove the cylinder, stuff a clean rag down into the crankcases. 2) The cylinder and head use alignment pins to hold them straight in position from the crankcases on up. The pins make it difficult to remove the cylinder from the cases and the head from the cylinder. Sometimes the steel alignment pins corrode into the aluminum engine components. Try spraying penetrating-oil down the mounting studs before attempting to remove the cylinder and head. Never use a flat-blade screwdriver, chisel, or metal hammer to remove the cylinder. Instead use this technique; buy a lead-shot plastic mallet, swing it at a 45-degree angle upwards against the sides of the cylinder. Alternate from left to right, hitting the sides of the cylinder to separate it from the cases evenly. Clean the steel alignment pins with steel wool and penetrating-oil. Examine the pins closely. If they are deformed in shape, they won't allow the engine parts to bolt together tightly. This can cause a dangerous air leak or a coolant leak. The pins are cheap at about $2 each. Replace them if they're rusty or deformed. 3) Never re-use old gaskets. Remove them with a razor blade or gasket scraper. Don't use a drill-driven steel wool type pad to remove old gaskets because they can remove aluminum from the cylinder and head. That will cause a gasket to leak. 4) Always check the ring end gap on a new ring by placing it in the cylinder between the head gasket surface and the exhaust port. The gap should be between .012 to .024 inches. 5) Always install the circlips with the opening facing straight up or down, that way inertia will hold it tight into the clip groove. Place one clip in the groove before installing the piston on the connecting rod. Its easier to install a clip with the piston in your hand rather than on the rod. There also less chance that you'll drop the circlip in the crankcases. 5) Always install the rings on the piston with the markings facing up. Coat the rings with pre-mix oil so they can slide in the groove when trying to install the piston in the cylinder. 6) Always install the piston on the connecting rod with the arrow on the piston crown facing towards the exhaust port. 7) The traditional way to assemble the top end is to install the piston assembly on the connecting rod, compress the rings, and slide the cylinder over the piston. That can be difficult with larger bore cylinders, or if you're working by yourself. Try this method instead. Install one circlip in the piston, install the piston into the cylinder with the pin hole exposed, install the piston pin through one side of the piston, position the cylinder over the connecting rod and push the piston pin through until it bottoms against the circlip, install the other circlip. It only takes two hands to install the top end using this manor and there is less chance that you'll damage the rings by twisting the cylinder upon installation. 8) On cylinders with reed valves and large oval intake ports, take care when installing the piston assembly in the cylinder because the rings are likely to squeeze out of the ring grooves. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently push the rings back in the grooves so the piston assembly can pass by the intake port. 9) For steel head gaskets, place the round side of the "bump" facing up. Don't use liquid gasket sealer; use aerosol spray adhesive types instead. For hybrid fiber/steel ring head gaskets, place the wide side of the steel rings facing down. 10) When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are; 1) Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand. 2) Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn't have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize.

Some parents don't have enough since to teach their kids anything. The safety programs are there to give a good base for kids and adults to get started. I didn't have my first ATV until I was about 23 or 24. Some adults don't know what safety is on an atv and they need a base to grow from also. The more safety alert people are the better all of us are.

Man, that's a great deal. If I needed one I'd buy it.

I done one a couple years ago. Still works great.