fixitrod

add me to the list to send pics please.

Stan, what is your price for that conversion?

Can't beat pwr like that for $165 out the door. A little sand paper and high temp paint.

It'll be about like putting a 14 in front with the 42 you had. 1 tooth up front is close to three in the back.

That should work fine. It's the bottom end that you have to think about breaking in too on a new motor. Here's a little clip I took from the eric gorr web page. Breaking In a New Bottom End The new lower end will need some patient break-in time. The best way is to let the engine idle for three separate 10-minute sessions with a 20-minute rest period between sessions. You don't need any extra pre-mix oil because the engine load is minimal when the engine is idling. and here's for the top end 10) When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are; 1) Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand. 2) Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn't have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize.

That just might could work!!!

Okay, so far I'm in also. Banchetta, you should have everyone that is going email you and get a contact list going and locations where people are staying. About a week before, you could email people with some contact info if they don't mind their numbers being sent to other bhq members. Jason, is your wife going?

Cold seizure also called a 4 corner seizure in this pic. Here's a great web site for piston diagnostics http://www.mztech.fsnet.co.uk/workshop/wrk_piston.html

I try to fix everything and my name is Rodney. About as simple as you can get.

Barnett dirt digger (Cheapest I found was magic racing) Hinson basket has the best name. I don't know how other baskets compare in the real world, but Hinson is know for quality.

Depends on head design, porting, ect... But I have heard people running in the 180's also but that's with head work and porting.

Ain't that the truth!!

Might be cheaper to send the engine to a U.S. shop and have it rebuilt.

I have exactly 160psi and run +4 timing. Pump 93octane works fine. Now, that's with a squish that it to high and will make the pistons cool more. Most people will start to mix 50/50 race and pump fuel around 160psi.

He's dlnoss on the board. You can just pm him. You can also email him at [email protected]. He has a web page also. www.nossmachine.com

Wish I had an extra $5000

I use maima tundra R. It's actually a snowmobile oil. No seperation in cold weather and it's certified in europe and japan. They have a lot more stricked standards than the u.s.

I knew a guy that broke the front of the frame. He welded the front at an angle to help absorb bumps better. Man, it really rode nice. He said it was similar to a 250r angle on the front. I never compared or even know if he was correct.

You have to remember that the dome size is only one consideration. There is squish, dome angle, squish size, etc... It's a science that somebody that designs heads knows how to deal with. Dave at Noss Machine is that guy. He's making one for my stroker.

That's about the same thing I'm using and I love it. My wife got it for me for christmas. It is 220v and kicks ass with gas.

LOL... My head is on it's way to you so you can make me a stroker head. Should be there tuesday.

Thanks Danny. You have a PM. I've never tried sierra mist and Jack... hmmm.

ttt

I was wondering if somebody had an extra .020 base gasket laying around. I had to pull my cylinder because I strip the little coolant bolt then broke an easy out off in it. It's all better now, but I need a gasket. Thanks guys Rodney