fixitrod

yeah but if you take that soft ride and do 60mph down a rutted up up straight youd wish you hadnt, if ya like soft, the stockers fine........ I'm sure he took that shock and ran it hard...have you seen Jason ride. Here's what I think. It comes down to the person who sets the shock up. A couple different shims, different oil weight, different springs, etc... The builder of the shock is as important as the builder of a motor. Just because I have axis doesn't mean the next shee that is "suppose" to be set up the same will ride the same if someone else did the work on his shocks.

If you grind the domes your gonna loose a lot of compression. You can get a head for around $25 on ebay sometimes. Somebody on here might have one to sell you cheap also. Good people here. Another option is to have that head cut and re-domed for some more compression. You can get it done for around $80. That way you gain some power while you are are it. Make sure there isn't any debris in the crank. If the crank goes out after your rebuild you will be in deep doo doo.. lol. It will take the new pistions, bore and head with it.

I believe he's talking about topend speed. He doesn't want the ball joint falling apart at top speed..lol

Have you tried pulling leaning the pilot out. Does it start cold without the choke. If so, it might be a rich choke or fuel just running in from a leaky float seat. I don't know.

The more flexible the less protective to an extent of over extending or compressing the ankle. With boots you have to learn to shift with your whole leg, not just your ankle. I have the tech 6's also and they are stiff but they do seem like very good boots.

Same with my wife.. lmao. She's like that shit's not for me.lol and my wife was in a hotel.. not a camper like yours.

Which joints. I don't want a joint that wears easy because the can fall apart unexpectedly. Quciksands a-arms are freakin awesome. I've seen them. I've even seen some he built "custom" for a bhq member. I wanted to clarify I have absoulutly nothing against quicksand a-arms.. they really are nice. Just the one style joint I don't like. Call it personal preference.

I've seen his stuff I bought a brake block off from him in California just because I needed one. It's so light you couldn't use it as a paper weight. I'm not into the bling stuff because I get to dirty in Indiana. His bike was shining like crazy and light as hell. You can't go wrong.

Heim joints are out in the open to much for me. The joint itself is exposed all the time. It's going to wear out fast.

What made you take it apart in the first place.

I wouldn't. Is it broke off or did it fall out. The pic isn't really clear. Here's the problem, when a crank goes it takes the cylinders, piston or pistons and head. Then it can ruin the sleeve in the cylinder also. Have a shop look at it for you.

Correct. The holes are for the fuel to come into the engine.

Just about everyone uses www.rockymountainatv.com I also like www.nossmachine.com http://www.magicracing.com/ http://www.jlatvproducts.com/. If you want to see microphisch (sp) for oem stuff go to www.ronnies.com Depending on the product, you have Dave who owns Noss Machine and builds trick heads and other parts, Boonman who lightens flywheels and shaved heads, you have Jim at Passion Racing who builds a lot of the guys motors here, CottenEyeJoe who fabs up all kinds of stuff, Holyman can get you some bearings and I believe Amsoil, DuneDemon can get shock springs, and the list goes on and on. I know I'm forgetting something. Oh, and welcome.... it's all about fun!!!

I would think that that bearing had to partially lock or something to spin that bearing hard enough to break that off.

I went to the dealership and got one right off the shelf for 10.95 and I didn't have to pay shipping. Give your local dealer a call. You might be suprised. That same puller is used on a lot of bikes.

Is it the motor or could it be a bearing locking up on you. Can you be more descriptive.

Get a hold of Dave with Noss. He may be able to get one to you. I believe pro-design domes work in his heads so maybe his domes will work on the pd head.

I believe at sea level and around 75 degrees probably 60 - 70 % humidity I use to run 320's on the mains, needle dropped one down from the stock position and stock pilot.

I've seen to many sloppy heim style joints on a-arms. I don't think they were really designed for that kind of force. Anyway, I don't have a clue what the yfz450 shock are like to mount up. I have the ricky stators and I have to say they are basic, strong and the joints seem to be very strong.

Could be. Have you tried to give it throttle as you start it. Not hold it open, but give it throttle while kicking. If it starts, it's not electrical. Does it die or you simply can't start it warm after turning it off.

http://www.thebansheezone.com/Bansheezone/BottomEnd.htm There's a step by step with pics that Meat made a long time ago.

According to www.carbparts.com the float bowl numbers are as follows pj 34mm - W1350-289-9910 pwk 35mm- W1350-311-9910 So, I guess they are different. Sorry about that. You may take it to a welding shop and have it welded without the bolt in place.

If they are keihns, I have a welded bowl that I can trade. The bolt at the bottom has been removed and is welded over. It's from a 35mm pwks but I think the pj's are the same bowl. I can verify if you wanted to trade. Some people use reed spacers also.

Mine left for Boonman today.