fixitrod

I got one today for $15 from Harbor Freight. I just checked my compression (had to remove tank, is that normal?) today and it read 90psi on both cylinders. I did it cold, holding the throttle wide open and kicked it over about 20 times each. I did some slow kicks and some hard ones. I haven't had a rebuild in a couple years but 90psi seemed very low for such a powerful bike. So I guess I just need to find someone with a good gauge I can borrow right? That's funny. I bought one from harbor frieght a long time ago and it read 90 on every motor I put it on. You have to buy a decent compression gauge.

My corrected compression ratio is 9.45 to 1 at 192lbs. This is just proof that compression and compression ratio's are two different animals. And that's at 700ft above sea level. On paper that would mean my compression ratio would yield 16lbs higher at sea level. I got this info from a good builder. Don't ask me how. lol Wha?? 9.45:1 at 192 lbs.? That'd kill my crank in about fifteen minutes. I run a tz bearing on the clutch side so I should be okay.... I sure hope. I also run klotz racing fuel 113 octane to prevent detonation. It's an mx type motor.

Yeah!!

Maybe thats not a bad idea. I've actually thought about that before, and then the thought got lost in my cavernous brain. I have a DGK and if I remember right, DEK is the next skinnier needle. I'll do that, probably order one today. I can't find that other post right now that you did. What needle did you end up at anyway.

Did you ever figure out the mysterious leaking trbl.

Anybody??

If the person the shortens it move the tabs it will work fine. I guess I was only talking about the stock plate. You heard the answer from the man himself..... cutter matt ... ex cutter matt that is.

Did you ever figure it out.

If the person the shortens it move the tabs it will work fine.

I'd do a leakdown test to make sure you don't have a crank seal leaking. If it's not the hose routing trouble that is.

If you are running a grand river motor and it's on any surface that grips... I don't suggest dumping the clutch in second Oh, I just noticed you said grr pipes.. .not engine.

I also use hose clamps and rubber in between. I mounted mine about the front fenders screws. I just cut two slits, ran the hose clamp through it and mounted them right above the screws. They are out in the open for adjustment and cooling, but out of the way from rocks and roost.

Yes and yes!!

I'm guessing the tires also. If you can't find any loose tie rod ends or loose ball joints it has to be in the tires or something wrong with the rims. Like said above, slime can cause that and it's not a good idea to add it to a high speed machine like a banshee. As far as the alingment just have the handle bars straight, measure from one wheel to the next on the tread. Do this on the front and back of the front wheels. They should be parallel or the fronts can be say 1/16th or 1/8th of an inch closer than the back of the front tires. If this is not the case loose the tie rod locking nuts and rotate the tierods to adjust. They don't need to be super super perfect. That won't cause the wobble. Also, make sure your axle and swingarm bearing are good. You shold not be able to see the axle or swingarm move back and forth if you grab the grab bar and pull left and right on the machine. I had a guy that was great with suspension tell me if the trouble feels like it's in the front adjust the back. Sometimes that can be the case with trouble like this. Just check to make sure. Sounds like you really do have something going on with the tires though. 35mph is where you see unbalanced car tires start to bounce too.

You can also cut some of the coils out of the slider springs in the carbs. I've cut up to 6 in aftermarket carbs and never had a problem. Replacing the cable or lubing them with a cable lube system is a must. The cable may seem fine with no resistance on it if you pull it off to check it but it's a different story when you put the resitance of the carb springs or cluctch on there. If you've ridden other banshees that seem like they don't pull as hard, most likely it's your cable.

If you aren't going to ride really hard through whoops or constantly be jumping you most likely will not need rezzies. If you go to the dunes, drag a few times and sit, ... hit a few jumps for fun and just race your friend you can save that $450. If you ride a lot though you may want the rezzies. I think you can get twice the time between rebuilds because there's more oil and it doesn't get "smoked" as easy. A shock builder will argue this but when I sent my shocks to be rebuilt they said the oil still looked new after 2 yrs of abuse. Most likely you won't need the rezzies though. On most shocks you can add remote rezzies if you feel you need them.

Make sure you wipe grease into the inner seal of any seal you put it. Put it on the surface that contacts the moving part. If you look at the seal, it will have a "pit" or "lip" to put the grease into. It will extend the life of the seal tremendously.

That's why these guys are here to help.

I've been looking for the thinner type carb clamps. I've been to the hardware store (big and small) and the local bike shops. I just can't find them. I need them for 35mm boots. Both the carb side and airbox side. Any help would be appreciated. Rodney

I'm not trying to divert you to another site by no means. This is the best banshee site I've ever been on but the guys at planed sand love to drag race. You should also post your question there. The really know a lot about some of the alky and big stuff out there.

Here's some stuff I got from Eric Gorrs page. Man his site is good. Check out the last paragraph. It's the break in. 11 TIPS FOR REBUILDING A TWO-STROKE TOP END 1. Before you disassemble your engine, power-wash the engine and the rest of the vehicle. That will reduce the risk of dirt and debris falling into the engine. Once you remove the cylinder, stuff a clean rag down into the crankcases. 2. The cylinder and head use alignment pins to hold them straight in position from the crankcases on up. The pins make it difficult to remove the cylinder from the cases and the head from the cylinder. Sometimes the steel alignment pins corrode into the aluminum engine components. Try spraying penetrating-oil down the mounting studs before attempting to remove the cylinder and head. Never use a flat-blade screwdriver, chisel, or metal hammer to remove the cylinder. Instead use this technique; buy a lead-shot plastic mallet, swing it at a 45-degree angle upwards against the sides of the cylinder. Alternate from left to right, hitting the sides of the cylinder to separate it from the cases evenly. Clean the steel alignment pins with steel wool and penetrating-oil. Examine the pins closely. If they are deformed in shape, they won't allow the engine parts to bolt together tightly. This can cause a dangerous air leak or a coolant leak. The pins are cheap at about $2 each. Replace them if they,re rusty or deformed. 3. Never re-use old gaskets. Remove them with a razor blade or gasket scraper. Don't use a drill-driven steel wool type pad to remove old gaskets because they can remove aluminum from the cylinder and head. That will cause a gasket to leak. 4. Always check the ring end gap on a new ring by placing it in the cylinder between the head gasket surface and the exhaust port. The gap should be between .012 to .024 inches. 5. Always install the circlips with the opening facing straight up or down, that way inertia will hold it tight into the clip groove. Place one clip in the groove before installing the piston on the connecting rod. Its easier to install a clip with the piston in your hand rather than on the rod. There also less chance that you,ll drop the circlip in the crankcases. 6. Always install the rings on the piston with the markings facing up. Coat the rings with pre-mix oil so they can slide in the groove when trying to install the piston in the cylinder. 7. Always install the piston on the connecting rod with the arrow on the piston crown facing towards the exhaust port. 8. The traditional way to assemble the top end is to install the piston assembly on the connecting rod, compress the rings, and slide the cylinder over the piston. That can be difficult with larger bore cylinders, or if you,re working by yourself. Try this method instead. Install one circlip in the piston, install the piston into the cylinder with the pin hole exposed, install the piston pin through one side of the piston, position the cylinder over the connecting rod and push the piston pin through until it bottoms against the circlip, install the other circlip. It only takes two hands to install the top end using this manor and there is less chance that you,ll damage the rings by twisting the cylinder upon installation. 9. On cylinders with reed valves and large oval intake ports, take care when installing the piston assembly in the cylinder because the rings are likely to squeeze out of the ring grooves. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently push the rings back in the grooves so the piston assembly can pass by the intake port. 10. For steel head gaskets, place the round side of the "bump" facing up. Don't use liquid gasket sealer, use aerosol spray adhesive types instead. For hybrid fiber/steel ring head gaskets, place the wide side of the steel rings facing down. 1. When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are: 1. Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand. 2. Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn't have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize.

I can't tell you the difference but I can say the pt mids are an excellent pipe. They really are. I own fatty's. I like them to for all around riding like you're descrbing. Mrmatt would line up with stock cylinder and ptmids at silverlake. He was running a +3 swingarm and he was very fast. I was very surprised.

I have ricky stator a-arms up fron +2 width and +1 forward. These a-arms are simple but very strong. I beat the crap out of them. I run axis shocks front and rear. I like them but elka makes a great shock too. +2 width is the widest I will go. I have a stock swingarm cut down -2. It's seems to be plenty strong. The chain adjustment on the other hand sucks. If you have the money, get a round carrier. More traction for sure but I didn't like it in the dunes. I want a +4 for the dunes.

Could be a rod bearing.

Stan, I hope you charged those cocksuckers at Levi and arm and a fuckin leg! Those bastards are the Sierra Club's biggest supporter, and donate some xxx million dollars a year to those fuckers - trying to take away our right to ride OHV's on PUBLIC lands, I DO NOT buy / wear Levis! Sorry for the rant, I'll get off of my soap box now....that shit just fires me up stan is a supporter of tree huggin hippies taking away our riding areas??? Loco are you trying to get me in trouble with Stan? Are you still upset cause I fucked up you name? Don't go putting words in my mouth. After seeing his picture a few months ago the last thing I need is that dude pissed off at me Don't worry, I've heard stan is just a big teddy bear