rg97

unless they re some cheap material, they shouldnt melt. like lilstvn said, something seems way wrong. running 180F, maybe just a fluke. running 250F, you know you have problems. you might not know if everything is fine unless you tear the motor apart, but if you think everythings ok with the motor just by eye, ride on. dont complain to me when something major happens though

im surprised theres nothing wrong with the motor. thats really hot. where did you measure the heat?

The water pump area is separated from the transmission by a seal and bearing, maybe the seals bad

a leak, possibly near the water pump

I'm really started to get hated on here though lol Ever since my top speed probs my account has gone

i doubt that they actually make them in australia, but get them instead from japan

sounds like a great setup

im running 48 pilots and 155 mains. sounds too lean on both jets too. i dont have a stock needle though, i think mine is a N68A. i am running high octane too

depends if you want accel or top speed. for 300ft drags, i'd go with 15 front or maybe a 16 (for more speed, less torque) and 39 or 40 rear

I figured that its still in production because its on yamaha australia's website. the last line even says "Get 'em while they last" http://www.yamaha-mo.../11-banshee-350

I was talking to banshee jump, not you. I can trust that your porting is good.

I dont think that porting will change your compression any. First of all, those carbs are waaaaay too big. He probably has no low end whatsoever. stockers or 28's would be the best for 4mil stock bore. About the compression, yes that really way to high. not even sure if it would run if it really is that high. 175 psi should be about good, depending on the gas that he runs. Go somewhere else and have it tested

unless the porting was done by a pro, I really wouldn't trust it. my PO had an amatuer port the banshee, and the amatuer prertty much went crazy with a dremel. I had to clean up A LOT of mistakes. Do it right the first time, so you won't have to change parts out every time you ride. P.S. i run 102 race gas on 22cc domes and runs perfect.

in my shout, I had said that "everything is stock except carbs, reed cages, reeds, and porting" i have a dune port with a short rod 4 mil with 2mm plate. Sorry that you forgot your glasses...

if you can get porting cheap, then I would also get pods and ditch the air filter box, and advance your timing with a woodruff key or adjustable plate. may need new jets as well. Dont forget to buy a purple powerband with double asymmetrical white stripes.

heyyyy there we go

omg why is this doing this. try #3 Our line of Super Stock pistons for Banshee and Blaster work to add power by simulating that the exhaust ports in your stock cylinder are timed differently which really means the same as hand ported with out the hassle. The Super Stock is notched on the dome next to the exhaust port to theoretically raise the port, which will raise the rpm range of the engine and develop more mid to topend power. If your engine is ported, on the Banshee you do not want to be less than the height of 28mm or 1.10236 inches from the top of the exhaust port to the top of the bore. On the Blaster if hand ported the height should not be less than 31.5mm or 1.240 inches if used in cylinders with this high of a port opening the engine will be very peaky and may fall out of the power range during gear changes. No special machining is required. Checking piston to head clearance is always recommended. Rejetting is mandatory.

idk why it didnt show up. it said: Our line of Super Stock pistons for Banshee and Blaster work to add power by simulating that the exhaust ports in your stock cylinder are timed differently which really means the same as hand ported with out the hassle. The Super Stock is notched on the dome next to the exhaust port to theoretically raise the port, which will raise the rpm range of the engine and develop more mid to topend power. If your engine is ported, on the Banshee you do not want to be less than the height of 28mm or 1.10236 inches from the top of the exhaust port to the top of the bore. On the Blaster if hand ported the height should not be less than 31.5mm or 1.240 inches if used in cylinders with this high of a port opening the engine will be very peaky and may fall out of the power range during gear changes. No special machining is required. Checking piston to head clearance is always recommended. Rejetting is mandatory.

I found this on vitos website under tech information: Our line of Super Stock pistons for Banshee and Blaster work to add power by simulating that the exhaust ports in your stock cylinder are timed differently which really means the same as hand ported with out the hassle. The Super Stock is notched on the dome next to the exhaust port to theoretically raise the port, which will raise the rpm range of the engine and develop more mid to topend power. If your engine is ported, on the Banshee you do not want to be less than the height of 28mm or 1.10236 inches from the top of the exhaust port to the top of the bore. On the Blaster if hand ported the height should not be less than 31.5mm or 1.240 inches if used in cylinders with this high of a port opening the engine will be very peaky and may fall out of the power range during gear changes. No special machining is required. Checking piston to head clearance is always recommended. Rejetting is mandatory.

wisecos never failed me. 795 series I think... never tried vitos pistons, but their cranks are great

Thanks for the correction. Really, I like mine how it is. More mods=more temperamental, so its not too hard to start or breaking down a lot. I can't give you real specs because 1.)my PO was a real idiot and subbed the stock 14t sprocket for a 12t (STUPID) and had tiny tiny rear tires. and 2.) I have other mods, like different carbs, reeds/ reed cages, different pipes, etc.

You dont need a lock out clutch, only for serious drag racing where your clutch is slipping when you take off. When you think about a stroked crank, for you +4mm, that means the pistons are going 2mm higher and 2mm lower. But Uh-oh! when your pistons go up 2mm more, they'll smash into your domes! Bad news there. If you absolutely want to keep stock jugs, you can report your jugs to be 2mm higher and cut 2mm off of your domes, or you could put a spacer plate in (2mm plate that goes between crankcase and jugs that lifts your jugs/domes by 2mm, stopping piston/dome collision and matching ports). Numerous people dont like the stroker plate though, because it wont give as much performance as cut domes and a report. A long rod stroker has, obviously, longer con rods, most of the time 5mm more (115 rods). Im 90% sure that if you use a stroker plate, you have to have a short (stock) rod stroker, which is what I have. Triple exhaust porting just cuts two more ports on the exhaust side of your cylinders so that exhaust can escape faster. Mostly for racing IMO, and I wouldn't go for it. different pipes are a must for banshee owner, yamaha had some idiots design it or they reeeally wanted to detune the motor. Coolhead is a great thing to have, and IMO pro-design makes the best, but it hurts the wallet a bit. Cub cool heads will NOT work with stock jugs, pretty sure about that. Cub jugs have a different bolt pattern

Welcome! If you're new to banshees, you may not know, but do you know if its a long rod stroker? X2 on the new pipes, X2 on ditching boost bottle. But I wouldn't get a billet impeller. Heres why. When you think about the cooling, the impeller is shoving water and antifreeze through the heads, hoses and radiator. When it goes through the radiator, air flowing past the fluid cools it, and the cycle keeps going. When you get an impeller that is "high-flow" however, Its moving coolant faster through the engine, and faster through the radiator. The faster coolant is going through the radiator, the less time it has to be cooled by surrounding air, thus making your coolant warmer, or rather not as cool, and you will have a higher operating temp, which can lead to engine breakdown and/or failure. I think the reason people want a metal impeller is because the plastic one can melt. Never had it happen to me, even on the 90+ degree days I have right now. Just dont let it sit too long idling unless theres air flowing through the radiator

I never noticed it. Ever

I really need an edit button for my posts. im a stickler about spelling. I'm, not I in "I keeping what I have"