rg97

How would a 38-tooth rear with the stock 14t front run? right now it has a 41 rear (stock). would it be better with maybe a 37 or 39? I'm not going for all-out speed, but I would like to hit at least 80 with 22" tires

My dad found a place that sells VP U14 leaded 110 Octane for $8.50 a gallon, which, considering we payed $15 for 102, seems like a good deal. What do you guys think? will I need to change my domes (22cc now) and/or my jets?

Whoops repeated myself

Thats why I had said 23", cause they expand so much. Another question. How can you tell the difference between a trail, drag, dune, etc. Port? and how can you tell?

I was going to start a new thread to ask, but i might as well do it here. I have a set of 23" 4-snow's and a set of 21" haulers. What should I run on silver lake next summer? I'm leaning towards haulers, but the 4-snows (facing backwards) will give me a speed increase because they're taller. Ive seen people run both

I get the feeling that when i get pump gas in it and rejet my performance wont change, and hey, if anything it may get better.

Its VP gas, called U2. its leaded and oxygenated. since i cant get a larger front sprocket with my case saver, i might drop 5 or so teeth in the back. i have an +4 degree key on my crank. how will pump gas run on 19cc domes? 20cc?

will do. thanks for the advice. what do you mean exactly when you say "keep an eye on it"

$75 bucks for 5 gallons

after i get though this tank of gas, we were going to switch to normal (2 stroke) gas so we can save the 102 for silver lake. definitely will get new mains for normal gas. I'll throw a richer main in and see what happens. last thing i want it to do is blow up The dealer i get my gas from sells up to 120 octane, not going to go for that ill do a plug chop and report

Jesse, thanks for actually answering Everything is good. The 102 race gas was my dad's idea not mine. apparently $15 a gallon makes it run faster . we have the jetting perfect for it. when we bought it, the pilot and main were waaay rich, we have it very slightly rich right now, because im not going to chance a lean-engine breakdown. I never did a compression test, but I have 22cc domes, and its not easy to kick over. I was thinking too that since the T5's are made for a stock engine, they arent big enough to give me the full top end power. in 6th wot, it just keeps going till it revs out, no flat spot. I was going to buy a +1 tooth front sprocket anyways

Fenders are staying on. This is more for backyard/dune fun that top speed anyways. I just thought it was strange because I've seen bone stock shees that go 70

Could be worse, I have a set of 18's on ITP rims that are coming off asap for a set of 22's, just haven't decided which tire yet

did you go with a stroker plate or 4mm ported jugs?

Oh shut up I'm not bansheegoon, yes its for real

Got the GPS out for my 394 today, surprised that it would only barely go 70 down my road. Im running 102 octance fuel, 20 in tires, full fenders, and a stock ratio. What could be the cause? everything you need to know about it is in my signature. any questions about it, ask! I can answer them. Thanks in advance -rg

THe reason I can tell is because when i first bought my shee i would go around my backyard once (its about the size of a football field) and the whole yard would look like it was covered in HEAVY pure white fog. the crank bearings got worn out and destroyed the seal, allowing trans oil in. Dont let the carbon buildup make you think that you need new pistons, chances are you wont. If you needa new crank, I got mine from vitos performance. new stock crank (trued, welded) $350, 4mm short rod $450, 4mm long rod $425. cant go wrong for an extra $100

dont even bother trying other heads, this is a bottom end problem. there is no antifreeze leak!

the engine is sucking oil from a bad right side crank seal. possibly need new crank. I had the exact same problem when I bought my shee. Cases will need split, this is a long project. took me about 3 months of going out for 1-2 hours once/twice a week. The carbon build up is from the cylinder burning trans fluid. If you feel the need to still run it (please dont!) make sure you check all your fluids

Is one cylinder set up for low end and one for top end? I'm sure that would cause some problems

Thanks for the input. I'm probably not going to buy new discs and plates yet, the ones in there now are fine. We had first thought that maybe we ruined some of the plates and thats why it wasnt working. Turns out that wasnt the case, so today its getting put back together with new coolant and new oil. I'm thinking wet clutch 80w or 85w from my yamaha store. Will that work ok??

found problem. one of the clutch screws was loose, so when i pulled in the clutch, the pressure plate was going like \ and the place where the screws were tight was not disengaging. While its apart im going to buy a barnett dirt digger kit, which imo is the best

I hope you mean new fiber plates and discs, not a basket and pressure plate...

Tension is normal. I'll try and pull it apart today or tomorrow. Not sure if this matters, but when we did the rebuild we noticed that the PO had only put one of the big washers on the clutch (maybe he forgot or lost the other), so we did order another one and put it on. It is together right, I know that. I wont know anything for sure until i tear into it.

I didnt find any steel in the oil, so hopefully if the nut came off its just sitting in the bottom and not being knocked around by the gears and basket