rg97

What do you have against them? They are definitely better than stock, and they came with it, so really they were free. Im not about to spend $250+ on a set of v-forces. So what if I lose .1 HP, I keeping what I have.

What tires are you running?

I can see why he would want accel when racing, but no doubt when he was topping out, other people were going a lot faster. like I said, though, this guy was a real idiot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-350-YFZ350-YFZ-350-ATV-OEM-Flywheel-Magnetto-89-1989-565-/151049212071?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232b3c10a7&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/IMPROVED-STRONGER-FLYWHEEL-ROTOR-MAGNETO-YAMAHA-YFZ350-Banshee-ALL-YEARS-/350794515370?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51acfb83aa&vxp=mtr These are your best bet probably. still hurts the wallet, but better than a new one. not sure about the second link's flywheel, its not OEM, but the first one is.

Probably best with eBay. a new one from your local shop is over $400

I agree, but if you had 19" tires on the back would you run it? my PO is turning into a real idiot. When I first got it (with the bad crank seal= smoking right side) he thought that the crank was where the clutch was. He literally pointed to the big round part of the clutch case and said "Well the cranks there all you need to do is replace the seal" Turns out when his buddy 'tried' to fix the seal, he just jammed it halfway in without splitting the cases.

The end of an era... Correct me if Im wrong, but i thought Australia was the last to make em. I guess its more of a prestige "i have a New banshee" feeling. The basic design hasn't changed since 89.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com.au/products/atv/sports/11-banshee-350 cant believe its that expensive. must be the last one left in existence

Hey deadbeat you should buy a '14 banshee and post pics! At least go to the dealer and take a look. They still make em in australia. I think thats the only place now that canada has stopped production

I kinda doubt it, he lived in a slightly crowded part of the town next to me (like 40 ft between houses) and he said rode it on the road a lot, unless he took it somewhere woody to ride, but he didnt have a trailer either. Some people are just plain stupid.

Well i found out what my problem is. I decided to take my front sprocket off to change it from a 14t (stock) to a 15t. Turns out the PO had a 12t on it. I don't know why he would want that much accel with no top speed. Anyone know why he would be running that small? Well anyways Im going for a 15t front, just hoping it will fit in my case saver. When it comes ill do another speed test

is it considered a trail, dune, drag, etc?

When I bought my banshee someone (not a pro, almost a botched job) had gone and knife-edged my intake, and made my exhaust a lot bigger. as it sits now, the exhaust port top is 27.5 mm from the top of the jug. Just wondering if this is considered a trail, dune, or drag port (in general). I would provide pics, but i already have the engine back together and running

*referred not refetred

For those of you who dont know what trail pros are... A quote from threewheelerworld: Carlisle TRAIL PRO Facts! Available at your local Walmart super center for a price so cheap that the idiot who bought them will replace even a brand new pair of holeshots with them. Commonly refetred to by the idiot purchaser as the most bad ass tire ever barring wooly boogers. They have been compared to putting 16-ply semi tires on a VW beetle They have almost zero traction on every surface known to man, minus something like pine tar. The tread pattern is so embarrassingly stupid it makes even Richard Simmons cringe at the sight of them. The weight of the tire itself is indistinguishable from the iron wheels commonly found on tractors from the late 1800's. The rubber is of such a hard compound they have been known to actually bend nails over before puncturing. In fact, Chuck Norris round house kicked a Trail Pro one time and was rewarded with a broken foot.

Well I dont see anyone with trail pros on their banshee, so this might have some truth (lol)

my dad has a 84 RZ, and I can see a few problems you would have. Since the banshee motor cases are exactly the same as the RZ's, you may think that it'll fit fine. but most likely it wont. If you ever wondered what the raised area on the back of the cases that is cast in, but 'plugged', its where the RPM meter went on the RZ. if youve ever had a banshee apart, you'll notice that there is an extra hole on the clutch side above and to the left of the clutch basket, right above the kicker gear. That hole is where the rpm shaft goes in a RZ. if you wanted to use a RZ engine, you would have to fix/plug that hole in the back middle of the case, not necessarily the one in the internal clutch part. Another problem would be your exhaust. the RZs had studs coming out of the power valve jugs that the exhaust bolted onto, not just springs like the shee that came later. since the stator side cover is different as well, it may not fit in the frame to well. Just dont do it.

Try a glow in the dark green paint. That'll draw some attention to ya

Get a new powerband (i like the red ones with a black stripe) and a boost bottle. youll be pushing 90!!

you beat me to posting that comment about tires > lol

X2^^^^ You never said what tires you're running. they make a big difference too. Running something like a 18" will let you wheelie all you want (becasue of the better torque/accel) but a 22" on the other hand will give less torque but you'll top out way higher. For my '97 shee the stock sprockets are 14/41, howd you end up with a 13/40 (i think thats what you said)? Remember too that engine mods wont make your engine spin higher RPM's (more speed), or at most a very little higher. Engine mods will change how long it takes to get to that speed. Im run a stock ratio with bald 20" (measure in at 19") and i get to 70. Change your ratio, you'll really notice it.

If i can do 70 with a 14/41 (and 20" tires), then a 15/41 with 21" tires would get to about 77-78, which is exactly what you got. I dont think anything is wrong with it except a little too lean up top. My only choice is to change the rear sprocket

A few reasons why it isnt running to the top speed maybe: -full fenders (LOTS of drag) -20" BALD BALD tires, so really they're about a 18.5" to 19" (stocks are 21) -stock final gearing (14/41) -stock primary gearing (23/66, or 2.869) -running lean on top end What I would like to do: -22" tires -I cant run a 15 or larger front sprocket because the chain would hit my case saver, so i would run a 14/37-38 -possibly race cut fenders -one or two size larger mains

Manual says 28 nM/ 20 ft. lbs for the head bolts AND the nuts thatgo on the jug itself to connect to the crankcase