rg97

Thats what i figured, the pancake bearing... this is just great... new rebuild and i already have to tear into it...

Plus of course the water jet isnt X,Y,and Z so inventor in 3D wouldn't work anyways. I could save the inventor file as a .stl for my 3D printer, but it only prints plastic

I agree that autocad sucks for 3D work but that's not what Im doing. All my 3D work is in inventor. But, inventor can't save to A dxf i know that for fact

For those of you who cant see my sig... 1997, 4 mil stroker, .060 over wiseco's, one hour ride time on rebuild, full hinson clutch, +2 durablue axle, +2 swingarm, Boyeson RAD valves w/ carbon fiber reeds, newly rebuilt PWK28's, Black/red plastic, extended A-arms, cool head, dune ported, Toomey T5's, Bald tires (who doesnt have them lol)

I could care less what you can make, or frankly, what you think. CAD works for me, and imo it's the best program i have available. not sure that any other programs can save in a .dxf that the waterjet uses

Carbon fiber or aluminum for the final cutout? I'm thinking carbon fiber because my radiator is chrome aluminum and so the aluminum plate would blend in unless i paint it. The CF would look awesome black on white

Maybe you think its gay because you can't use it right... Im going to cut out the middle piece in the plastic because yes it would block some out. I had to resize the pics so that it would let me upload them... You just cant see the bolt pattern but it os there

inventor file

This is a screenshot of my latest banshee-related CAD work. the R2 is our "company" my name, rheese, and my dad, ron were combined. I know that really R2 or 2R would be more appropriate, but R2 looks sweeeet heres the pic lemme know what you think. It's getting cut out of 1/8" stainless first, then either 1/8" 6061 aluminum or 1/8" carbon fiber with the waterjet cutter at work. the other pic (the carbon fiber looking one) is an alternate from autodesk inventor

I'm my own builder, so 130 sounds good to me seriously though, you guys seem right 65 hp doesnt sound like much in a car but when its a smokin' monster that weighs like 1/8 of a cars weight, you better be hanging on tight

the actuator lines up fine with the case. I knew about the two arrows on the actuator and case. they line up perfectly. the clutch is a full hinson. I know that just a vac wouldnt do the job, so i did wash the whole thing many times over until i thought i got everything. I just put in the penzoil platinum yesterday, i wanted to try a thinner oil (5w) because i thought maybe the old oil was too thick. What it had in it was SAE gear oil 80w for wet clutches and transmission, not just a 2 stroke specific tranny oil. I'll probably tear the cover off and see what i find. When i say i milled my cases, i really just smoothed the inside out where the casting was slightly rough till it shined

Hi, I'm a newbie here but I'm looking for some help. I'll start at the beginning. I took my shee out about 4 days ago to take a rip down the street, and it seemed to not run right 1-4, but fine 5-6. It seemed like it was shifting kinda hard, and it wasn't pulling as much as I'm used to. It barely even picked up the fronts. I didnt think much of it, but then i noticed that when i was in a gear, mostly 1st, even when i had my clutch pulled in, it wanted to move. I figured i would look at it later, I had other things to do, and yesterday i tried again. This time, it still shifted slightly hard, but now the clutch wont even disengage. If I'm in first, with the clutch pulled in, it moves like it normally does in 1st. the only way to stop it is to use brakes to stall it. I changed to oil to a penzoil platinum 5w-30, and i didnt get a chance to try the clutch again cause it rained pretty hard today. Any help is appreciated for assistance. If you need any more details just ask I can answer them. PS: It is not the clutch cable. No matter how much i adjust it, it still does the same thing. My only guess is that the pancake bearing that i put in during the rebuild (about 1 hour of run time on the rebuilt engine) is acting up and maybe it came loose somehow. When i drained the old oil, i found almost microscopic pieces of aluminum in the old oil, but i figure it was from the milling that i did on my cases and the pieces were chips that i missed with the vacuum.

Everything about my shee is in my signature. I'm running VP Racing U4 102 Octane race gas. any questions about it, just ask I can answer them My dad and I figure in the 75-80 HP range, at the wheels

ugh messed up that last post. If I take the tires to my local shop or a car garage, how much will it cost to have the tires removed?

If i wanted a custom set, how much would that cost me?

Its a thought, but of course I'm not going to be accurate if I do that... At his work, my dad has a friend that can use the VMC to drill new holes, but I dont really want to go through the pain of breaking the beads and removing the tires by hand

Hi, this is my first post. I have a set of 21 inch haulers that have 3x90 rims, but the hubs fit a Honda ATC, and of course the axle splines dont match up. Just wondering if 3x90 and banshee axle hubs exist, or if i need to get brand new rims. Thanks in advance for any help. ~Rheese