Young Guns Racing

Before looking at your stator cover other bases first. Id do a compression test followed by a leakdown to be SURE you dont have an issue elsewhere. Secondly check simple things, plug gap, fuel lines for deterioration - things of that nature. Make sure ur carb bowls are on the right carbs. The left carb (choke carb) has a small brass bb in the back bottom side of the fuel bowl - it has a small metering jet inside of it my guess is to feed the choke tube. anyhow i just got over one of these giving me a shit fit. no fun. good luck! report back with your compression and leakdown findings

Sorry man no cdi. I bought this bike for partss and some are missing. If any turn up I will pm you

All prices are shipped unless otherwise noted. Will post pics as soon as I can. Old style round plug wiring harnesses 2 - make offer Stock head, some pitting from risk clip failure - make offer Toomey t5 pipes and silencers, some surface rust, should clean up - 300 Stock trans - 100 Stock crank, rh rod bearing siezing, needs rebuild - 30 Nice set of vf3's, came out of running motor crank failed - 120 - sale pending Stock carbs w/ tors deleted. Caps and cable included - 100 Lots of stock parts, just ask and shoot me an offer. All reasonables will not be turned down. Adjustable timing plate - SOLD

Thats odd. Glad to know its something to look for tho. Took off the carbs again, clean as a whistle, mains were fine and the washers were present. After reading much more about the float bowls I noticed the bowl for the lwft carb was on the right. When I cleaned them I set them aside and did one at a time as not to mix up parts so never gave it a thought. So I reinstalled them correctly and boom - other cylinder kicked right in at wot like its supposed to. This was a frustrating one for me. This place has so much to offer I cannot thank you all enough for your time and advice. Im glad to have it solved

Its fairly simple and pretty self explanitory. Im sure there are write ups on it here on the hq

No i havnt seen any issues with the reed cages. I swapped them over as well. Same problem. I will check for issues with the carbs again. I dont think there were washers under the main jets. thats not good so i will start there and we will see where that goes. In the meantime any other sugguestions or oppinions are appreciated as well! Thanks to all for their responses so far. I will update you soon.

Alright here it goes. I have tried all I can think of so I hope you guys can help out. Bike is a 98 Banshee. Airbox modified - open with K&N 2 into 1 filter. Carbs stock mikunis, Vforce 3 reeds, PC pipes, adjustable timing plate set at +4. TORS is eliminated and cleanly. No more PB sensor, thats been taken care of. The stator in it was giving me starting and revving issues - so i stuck an OEM spare I had on it, now this is where i am at. Problem:: Bike idles fine, revs out on both cylinders to about half throttle or so but when pressed any further the RH cylinder stops working. Smack WOT and put ur hand in front of the rh silencer and theres hardly any pressure coming out and very low heat, lh silencer will damn near cook ur hand about 6" away and blows out like no tomorrow. With quick wops of the throttle, the bike revs out fine it seems. both pipes working. both put out equal heat and pressure at idle. What I have done so far:: - I have installed a spark tester with it jumping a 5mm gap in the window, put it in both wires and neither of them loose ignition at any point. - Compression is about 145 on lh cylinder and about 148 on RH cylinder. - Leakdown done - passed with flying colors - I just put new crank seals in this engine and this was the 2nd leakdown i've done. passed first on bench and passed this one on the bike after about 10 minutes of run time. - Carbs are clean - i ran em thru an ultrasonic cleaner, pilots 27.5's, 300 mains, needles on 3rd clip from top. Sync'd with the tool from FAST. I am at about 600ft elevation here in VA so pretty much sea level. - Swapped stators, old was 200watt aftermarket - swapped to oem, before bike would not rev hardly at all. pickup module gapped at .020 -- have a plastic gauge from B&S .010 - folded it over. - Changed coil wire plug caps -- no difference, swapped wires, no difference. so all that being said i still cannot cure my problem...not sure whats going on. any advice or help would be appreciated. thanks! EDIT :: Just found out RH pipe has no o-ring in the pipe mounting it to the cylinder. can this cause a drop of the cylinder at high rpm?

Gotta nice set of Vforce3's. Came out of a running bike crank went bad in. $120 shipped

Im gonna be running 35mm pwk's on my 4 mil stock cylinder build. Stock carbs fall off right around 70hp. If thats what ur going for stockers will feed all u need. Otherwise u have plenty of options

Will do later today

x2 -- a modified/ported engine will love them. Your stocker can only do so much.

ahhhhhhh. This all makes sense now. he installed a TORS delete kit with new caps and all but did not modify the old carbs to accept idle screws. If I were you - id buy some and do it. If you do not want to. Then you will have to play with syncing your carbs manually by the "tension" adjustments on your caps. This will be difficult and unreliable. I had a buddy's bike he did the same way, run fine one day, next one of the cables would loosen up and caused all kinds of issues. installed idle screws and bang, no issues. Heres what you need >>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-Idle-KIt-w-Air-Screws-tap-drill-bit-/200256535724?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea0383cac&vxp=mtr

seems that we have a mystery now...the engraving is pretty identical on both cylinders as is the port work, it looks more of like a mild port and clean up than anything else inside.

I just bought another shee and was just wondering whos port work this is? The signature seems pretty easily read. If I have to guess i might say "F.A.S.T. Racing?"

If you just have two cables on top of ur carbs right into the caps the TORS has been deleted. If you have 2 large control boxes on top of ur carbs with 2 wires, one black the other yellow and black, are your TORS units. There is a black module with 3 wires going to it somewhere in your harness and that is your TORS module - if it is NOT present than maybe a previous owner deleted it already. Generally the box is mounted under the fuel tank on the lh side if you are sitting on the bike. Out of curiosity have you tried running the bike since u cleaned ur carbs?

Bump. Anyone?

Idk how much you are into it but a little time and some painting the RIGHT WAY can make those plastics shine up better than new. These fenders were originally blue. If you find some cheap black plastics that would be a better basis

did you gap the pickup module correctly? tors and parking break systems eliminated? leakdown the motor? an excessive air leak will make the afm extremely lean and hard to get fired up. and i know you said it had compression, but how much? u got any numbers?

unplug the TORs control module under the fuel tank (3 wires running to it). as far as ur carbs disassemble them fully. spray carb cleaner through the pilot orifice and make sure the passages are clean. Same with the other passages and jets. Make sure you do this on a clean work area and reassemble carefully. Jets are brass, dont tighten them like lug nuts lol anyhow, take your time, use a good quality cleaner like gumout and have faith.

I've had them before and I've since based that particular intake port from their template. Its not 100% the same but very similar

x2 on eliminating this. As said disconnect the carb sensors and unplug that control box under the fuel tank. I think its on the LH side.

Cheap ones might sell for that. A GOOD billet impellar will cost you about $75-80. I may have a spare pro design. I will check and let u know Update: sorry no impellar. Good luck

Agree'd more info and then more sugguestions will come

Ur pilot circuit in ur carbs is lean. If it does not have a 27.5 pilot i would start there. Clean those carbs and be sure that pilot passage is open. Then sync the carbs and make sure ur little choke/cross tube is on tight.

I need a good oem flywheel and the key to go with it if possible. If not just a flywheel will do. Just pm me, thanks!