Young Guns Racing

Lol I'm working on tucking them in and yes I came out with a specific stinger length that I greatly overshot. Figured I would trim them once on the bike and havnt gotten to that point yet. Yes I wanna snag a good tig welder up and see what I can do with that. I'm hoping for much smoother results but time will tell. Last night I redesigned the header pipe and all in all the next set should fit muuuuuch better. I have a question now tho. I'm wanting to get a single piece header pipe made, from thr flange all the way up to the first defuser. I've looked into hydro forming and not sure how well that would work so I am shying away from it. Anyone have any ideas? It would look much cleaner and be more efficient for me to be able to just weld two halves together vs 10 sections

Thanks! Once.I get these kinda dialed in where I'm wanting them I think I will try my hand at a set of inframes. As of now I am only concentrating on small bore (66mm) stock clinder engines. Its all I have ready access to at the moment however I may try my hand at some big bore setups later down the road

Better off doing a street bike coversion than the sled. I know its all already there but one its a smaller unit that will cost you in one way or another. The sled swap might seem really cool but it is going to be in no way rideable or just a play bike. Again i vote sell the damn sled or part it out for what you can and start buidling a nasty banshee engine. No fitment issues and it has the potential to be faster then the sled swap

Of course. If they are even remotely close I will be thrilled. I know I keep sayin it but I've wanted to do this for a LONG time and to see it all come together is awesome

The stingers are long. I figured I would chop em once I got the pipes all fitted up. Thanks tho! It has been a long time comin, like I said some imperfections I believe I can cure on a second set but all in all I'm pretty happy

Mig went on really smooth for me and its a good thing too because I ended up having to use it instead. My buddys tig is a cheapo model and doesn't even hardly work. Took me FOREVER to do it but slow and steady was successful! No holes blown through anywhere. Anyhow that's besides the point - I got em done and got em on today. They sound mean, powerband comes in about 650rpms higher than my sbsf in frame shearers. I didnt get to run them much today as it is raining and when I took it out for one test run they pulled extremely hard until I slammed a huge water puddle lol no good. They were a tight fit so next set will need to have the header pipe tweaked just a bit for fitment issue. Nonetheless for a first set I am very pleased with the result for a first attempt. Here are some pics

Sweet! Now ship em back to their rightful owner

I'm going to play around with a mig dave. Seems that 18ga stuff could be very migable so I will probably play with both welders and see what happens

I bought the flanges. I don't have ability to machine any. Cpi sells them. Thanks to all who stopped in to check these out. I will be welding and fitting them up tomorrow I hope lol. All goes well it won't be an issue. I am going to have to hack off stock pipe flanges to do it tho. They sent me 2 different sized flanges and I'm not patient lol I will say that brazing vs tig, brazing heats the cone much more over a larger area and warping will become an issue. A tig weld lays on very smooth and the heat doesn't transfer over such a large area like what a torch puts out. If controlled well enough I would imagine brazing would be a nice clean look. My prefference - I'll stick with a tig

Well I got my coned sections in today, they look pretty sweet. Anyhow, heres a loosely taped together mock up of what they will look like! Sorry my workbench is pretty damn dirty right now. Anyhow, I'm excited and will be curious to see what kinda power they will make (if any).

Yes, port timing amongst other factors control where your powerband comes in so porting has a lot to do with it. My 4 mil stock cylinder aggresive dune port would do great in the woods. Its got some good bottom end but it really shines on top - there again, its what I had it setup for. If you know who built it they would be the best one to answer your question. Just a little info. Both dmc and paul turner mids are known to be great woods pipes. I ran PT high revs in the woods once and they worked decently, here again they're tuned to come in moreso on top end.

If you are running stock carbs have you ever took them apart to clean them? If not maybe the previous owner did. Anyhow the left carb (one with choke plunger) has a small brass bb pressed into the backside of the carburetor bowl. It has a metering jet inside that bowl to allow flow through that cross tube between ur two carbs. If the bowls are on the wrong carbs - it will run like crap so double check that the bowl with the brass bb in it - viewable from the outside - is on the left carburetor. I had this issue once and chased it til I found out about this. I pass that knowlege on when I can.

While they can be done right and be incredibly fast, they are also very heavy. I agree with it just not being worth it. I saw a trx250r that was a 431 puma on a full fledged drag frame and a stock frame trx450r outrun 3 sled bikes all 900cc plus. A correctly setup banshee engine on the right frame will fly. My personal oppinion your money would be better spent turning your banshee frame into a newer version if what it already is.If you wanna do the sled swap go for it, just remember pipes alone are gonna be a pretty penny - and if you do your research you'll know that using the original sled pipes are a no go, they will take considerable modification to fit and make no power to benefit the time

Got my slip roller today. Just a small 12" from Woodward Fab, sweet little unit (tho ive never owned one so I cant say much). Works just as described. I rolled a few straight sections from zinc plated scrap steel and they came out nicely. I will be attempting to roll hard cones later on. I am sure this will take practice but just having this tool gives me a huge boost of confidence and I am so close to actually accomplishing this its unreal. Going to buy a tig of my own here soon so I wont have to keep borrowing. Oh and the pre-rolled cones I purchased will be here friday according to fedex. So as mentioned hopefully I will have some successful pics for you to check out soon!

I have a Honda ATC250r Frame and swing arm just laying around outside....perhaps i will find a snug fit with a banshee engine somehow

Look into some new Kenda Sand Gecko's. They're probably the cheapest paddle tire around.

I have everything you are looking for all were installed brand new and have between 5-6hrs run time on them. Pm me

This is going to get bad...look dude (UPbansheeRacer) don't come to this forum with thin skin asking for aome pretty technical advice on fabrication and then come out to say "all I don't have is a welder". If you really do have fab skills - that's great! Use ur head, if not - that's fine too, you can learn a lot from guys here. Tons of members here have done more than most of us guys can even imagine so there can be great advice to be had with the right attitude. Just don't take shit to heart and don't go spouting off on what you've done and can do - it will get u nowhere. My advice if you REALLY wanna do this do the simple.thing first - find images and start studying the way different builders do different things and what they do in similar fashion. Note to ur cause, an apology and more specific request of what your looking for help on will be a good start. Keep in mind no one is just gonna hand u the blueprints to a frame build. Take what u get with a grain of salt. Good luck.

Happens to lots of us. Glad u got it solved!

I run +7 on my 4 mil stock cylinder on 93 pump fuel. No detonation issues yet. But i have seen and hear horror stories. I am switching to race fuel for my newer setup (just changing porting a bit and going override tranny). +4 is a safe margin, if you have ANY doubts, retard it to +4 for peace of mind.

flywheel puller is a cheap investment for the DYI guy, probably cheaper than minimum shop labor too

Gotta buddy who's going to loan me a tig welder before I buy and rolled cones are on their way! Steel versions of this attempt will be coming soon!

Interesting, may be a few materiel trials in the future.

There's a neat "technical section" here on the forum. Under that section is a neat file called an "owners manual". Step 1 - put the bike away and don't touch it. Step 2 - download and read the owners manual. Step 3 - read the damn.thing again. Step 4 - get a tatto.with mixing instructions somewhere easily read - like a forearm. Step 5 - buy premixed fuel in a.can

I've always heard stainless is just hard to work with. Figure for the cost its probably cheaper to have raw steel chromed when finished