hoppedupandcutdown

YES, baking soda strips anodizing

Bump, I'd be interested in a reserve valve too, for around a hundred.

I think soda will strip the gold anodizing too. I have an old gold rim and a soda blaster,I'll try it some time and let you know. If you're not in a hurry. Soaking them in thinner would work, I'd be careful with stripper though.

I'm getting an Elka stage 4 for the rear of my Banshee. Any better way to attach the reservoir to the frame than hose clamps?

Your second one there runs both hoses all the way to the master cylinder on the handlebars. both replace everything stock, I have both styles, either will work fine,personal preference.

My Falcon and my son's Honda at a car show last Sept.

No, need that hole to be open. air has to go somewhere so the slide can move freely

Most common overlooked problems... Unplug the brain box, left side of the steering shaft in front of gas tank? Double check the choke tube in place between carbs? Carb slides in the right carbs?

Alright, I spent 15 mins. on your site and didn't find ANY pics. I give up.

Just a note, when we were there for Sandfest, the southern most row of campsites, (I think he told me the entire row) 101 thru 111, now also have sewer hook-ups.

Sure enough, the shock takes 10mm and Banshee bolts are 12mm. It ain't worth freight. I'll use it as a fancy wheel chock.

That vent system is totally separate from the coolant system. The hose should be hooked to the motor to keep water, sand, dirt, etc. out of the trans. Hose from the neck of the radiator to the bottom of the overflow, hose from the top of the overflow back up the steering stem and made to drip on the exhaust . The only way it empties is when it cools it will pull a vacuum and draw coolant back into the radiator. if the radiator was low to begin with. You're tank might just leak. It's really not needed, as long as your hose from the neck drips on exhaust you will be able to smell it if it boils over.

The hoses from the T should not go to the radiator. 1 goes to the vent under the rear motor mount bolt, 2 goes to the clutch/waterpump cover, 3 goes up the steering stem to nothing for the vent.

Wow, I just checked Ebay, didn't realize they aren't worth much. Was going by what the guy that sold it to me said. I'd take $40 shipped. What do you mean by fit to banshee linkage? What would need to be done?

I'd do $60 shipped for the shock only

Trying to see if this pic posts

I've got what I was told to be an R1 off a Banshee that i bought that I'm not gonna use.

Funny thing, I've had exactly the opposite experience. It's all good though, me and my own riding buddies can't agree ! If you do run an Outerwear, only leave it on when you ride, not when your bike is being stored. the oil from the filter will ruin the elastic and it will also cling to the mesh and plug up faster when you do ride. also use recommended cleaner or it will ruin the elastic. I also grease the mounting surface of the filter, I think a lot of fine dirt creeps in from there. no matter what brand- proper oiling and regular cleaning. I've been known to clean mine nightly during an extended weekend at the dunes

Is the lower rear shock link chrome plated or just polished? If chrome, how much?

X2 -That would also explain pushing oil out the sprocket seal

pm sent

Then I'd try a new impeller shaft and seal

OK, but, same question

Am I missing something? What's an extended arm got to do with it?