hoppedupandcutdown

Several things...switching the plug wires only tests the wires and boots,and spark plugs. One coil-two wires, if the coil fires, both wires should too. You might check the wiring coming from the stator and pickup coil and that connecter. BUT, if it's firing with your hand over the carb, then you have an air leak somewhere. Has it ever run right for you? Someone on here bought a Banshee that had two of the same carb slides. Or your choke plunger could be drawing air. It doesn't seem as if you have actually narrowed it down between electrical or air/fuel.

Agreed,don't prime if you don't need too. Although I only urethane cleared a set of Fullbores for a guy and it still cracked when he rolled it, but he did still have full rear fenders.

You can, no sense in it. 2 part urethane primer would be best, it sticks to everything. I'm not a fan of painting plastic for woods/trail riding, sooner or later it will scratch off.

And bare metal to mount the voltage regulator.(I think anyway, can't hurt)

Cascade had some on sale, Don't know if they still do. I bought one and have not run it yet. If my boots scratch it, I'm screwed, where as polished aluminum can be re-polished.

Installed a Warrior link today. Dropped the rear 2 5/8" with a +4 swinger and a brand new Elka stage 4. Only down side is, have to remove lower shock to get at the lower grease zerk.

One trigger "nud" on the flywheel is for the left cyl and one is for the right cylinder. The coil fires both plugs at the same time twice a revolution. When one cylinder is at TDC and the other is at BTC. I'd try another flywheel.

yes, stock link +4 arm and the EXACT shock that I priced you. Not one like it, IT.

Usually you would pick your tire size , then a wheel to fit, but, like Ticktock said, probably a better selection in the 9" diameter tires.

width or diameter?

I bought a Banshee with a new top end for my kids Ten years later,I had it bored, the left went 3 more over sizes than the right -at the time didn't know why It ran right up until the flywheel broke in two. It had pry bar marks, hammer marks,puller marks and bends on the face, eventually split through the rivets all the way around. The left crank bearing had some play and that would explain the left hole being so bad. Anyway,that flywheel was REALLY BAD, I never would have ran if I had known, But it lasted 10 years ! If I was you, I'd run it, if it didn't give much of a fight coming off with a 2 jaw puller.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=162045&hl= Read this thread, that pic is my shock.

Double check with your builder, big difference between .50mm and .050". The first one is half of a millimeter(or right at twenty thousandths of a inch), the second is fifty thousandths of an inch.

The R-shock I have measures at 11 5/8" center eye to center eye.

I've had the sides of the needle varnish and stick, a quick soak in carb cleaner, and scrape with a finger nail, and been fine after that. although I do usually go with - if you're in there, put in new parts.

Thank you so much, that is an excellent way for me to get a newer car, thanks again for the idea. I would have never thought of that.

So did he

If your talking about the bike that I bought, it's actually a +4 swingarm. I'll sell the shock for $30 plus actual shipping.

If you had to repaint that often, your painter is shit, I don't care how hard or often you ride.

SHAWS are SOLD

Powdercoat over paint...and I paint for a living. I can't blast, prime,base and clear a frame as cheap as I can have one PC'ed They PC coil springs, it flexs fine without cracking. Acetone on a q-tip will remove fresh PC faster than you would believe, to clean threads or grounds. If you do chip your powder, find a nail polish color close and touch it up But, mine is painted...quality etch-primer and clear-coat, it will hold up fine too,but not quite as durable as powder. By the time it looks shabby, I'll be ready for a color change anyway.

Do a compression test,to see if the dealer screwed you. clean the pilots and the needle and seats, if it's been sitting before you got it.

o-ring chains come with the lube inside the rings, that's why they shouldn't be power washed. After a ride and a wash I wipe mine with a oily rag to keep it from rusting while sitting, then wipe it with a dry rag before riding again.

sure thing, I actually had a 3 day weekend at the dunes ruined because the throttle switch stuck and the bike wouldn't start. no-one knew anything about disconnecting the TORS

Don't forget to unplug TORS control unit left side in front of gas tank