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$14 is cheap. snapon probly would be $35

why not put something like this on the end of your torq wrench http://www.ebay.com/itm/12mm-Torque-Adapter-Wrench-Motorcycle-Tool-12-pt-3-8-Drive-Life-Time-Warranty-/201317429268?hash=item2edf743014&vxp=mtr

making sure all ports are symetrical is a good idea. mentioned a paperclip onetime and everyone laughed it up (except camatv). frikin parts changers anyways

theres more than one engine that have used plastic gear and impeller. generally they last along time but theres a chance the chemicals can degrade them over time and cause a failure, probly more so with the impeller. aluminum bits aint a bad way to go but i dont think you have much to worry about even with plastic. sure theres a long shot it may fail right away but i think those chances are slim. there must be a million hondas still going strong with plastic gears and nearly every ktm since the early 80's has used plastic impellers without hardly any trouble. i went with the aluminum parts for my banshee but got other engines in the garage with plastic gear or impeller. havent had any problems with any of em

some asswipe stole the anchor from my boat. how much you want for that engine ? buwahahahhaa

i cant imagine removing the stuffers to be beneficial, not on a well designed reed block anyways. the stuffer gradually transforms the flow through the carbs round cross sectional area into a rectangle cross sectional area as it enters into the reed block and goes on about its way through the petals

naw man, all the nonporting sumbitches would just say it dont look right, exh not polished enough, boyesens to big, bridges arent knife edged sharp enough, rods are to long, pistons to flat, transfers to wide. you know how it goes LOL. funner to keep em scratching their head

Weve had this discussion before, not long ago. Why rehash it. When its all put together we'll race and see how everyones stuff stacks up

didnt want anyone accusing me of showing warmed over athenas. clearly you can see theyre stockers

it is all shit. cylinders... the best 1970 had to offer, a joke by todays standards. cases are shit but they had to play along with the shit cylinders, or maybe its the other way around, who cares at this point, its all circa 1970 after all. crankshaft is shit, the whole design is all wrong, but they didnt know any better back then, laughable by what we know today. if you knew anything about 2t engines you wouldnt be asking me to explain why a engine from 1970 is shit. selling the banshee aint gonna happen brah. having fun messin with this old turd bucket actually, now if i was rich like some of you high rollers i'd be buildin somethin different, and better for sure, but certainly not dumpin 10-20G into dinosaur parts. deadbeat this for you. dont bother asking for more pics, sorry aint gonna happen. not that you would know what you were lookin at anyways, or have the foggiest idea how to copy it, its just that i like to keep some of the stuff i do to myself.

not here for explanations. just offering somebody a free part that might need it. can go in the trash for all i care but figured i would try to help somebody

bearing for a support plate if anyone wants it, was sent with the plate. its brandnew. picked up a skf to use instead. just pay shipping probly be $5 or $6. right one in the pic is the one youll get

nice work. i need some intake manifolds soon. maybe you can do it

naw theyre middle of the road but good enough. theres better ones but theyre $250 a pop. this game aint cheap. some corners can be cut but not on the conrods. its the weaklink in the chain, make it as strong as you can

a well designed and well cast cylinder most likely wont have a ton of room for improvment. im sure calvin did a excellent job from A-Z but im sure theres still alittle bit left, maybe alot left, hell i dont know but i cant see fluffing up the intakes is as good as its gonna get

on a simulator the v4 do better than stock cages based on design and dimensions. in the real world im not sure what the results would be but ill bet they have been tested plenty of times. seems like there was some posts aound here

i see no reason to use a stock 110 rod except on a bone stock engine, in which case they will work fine. rods i use are 1mm thicker in the beam and quit a bit stronger on the little and big ends than even the grey hotrods, which have been known to snap in half. blame it on not cleaning the airfilter, not turning on the fuel valve, compression to high, blame it on what ever the hell you want but those are lame ass reasons for a rod to snap in half. if it cant handle some serious abuse it wont be installed in my engine

Camatv already spoke for em last night

if you wanna learn somethin ya gotta pay attention grasshopper but it dont sound like your ready yet

you meen to tell me theres a book that tells how to do it and has pictures ?

if theyre mostly as cast, i imagine theyll run about the same as 'as cast'. no need for dyno comparison

i wouldnt expect you to know a good rod from a bad. if you want these lemme know. if not then go bother someone else

stock rods are paper thin in the beam section. hence why they always break. truth be known, hotrods are pretty thin also. but ill shut up because alot of guys will probly get upset hahaha. while im thinking of it i got some brandnew 115 grey hots rods from a new crank im pulling apart if anyone wants em free. just pay shipping. trickcarbine you need some or was it just vitos you were after ? either way someone can have em, otherwise theyre goin in the trash. can have all 4 of the taiwan crank bearings also. other wise theyre goin in the trash aswell. not sure when ill get around to disassembling it but if ya want em just let me know and theyre all yours

stock rods are pretty flimsy. i wouldnt blame your friend to much

i dont see why you insist on having them sharp. them boyesen dividers are way to sharp for my liking. center bridge looks fine to me.