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lets say they had no desire to modernize anything about the cylinder, which they obviously didnt, atleast add some provisions for guys that want more than just a bone stocker without having to weld the shit out of everything. maybe fill in the stud pockets, side and top of the transfer, maybe something near the exh for tripples down the road. im sure all of this could be accomplished without much trouble during the casting phase. off topic but somewhat the same, i think athena probly had good intensions but dropped the ball. why cast it for 68mm, first mistake. other than the tripples, the rest of the cylinder probly isnt much different than a stocker when you get right down to the nitty gritty, second mistake. i do like the plating idea but hell for $700 ill pass

wayne they very well might be cast with great qaulity, that isnt the issue here. theres numerous things they could have done to update the design just a bit. were talking seriously old technology here, whether you wanna believe it or not

^^^ haha even your stupid ass that dont know nothin about engines, said right on the first page that they should of updated from the 1970 design hahahahahahhahaa. pretty sad when even a nonengine building baffoon can recognize a stock cylinder copy was a bad idea

some people just cant handle the truth. most engines were barely getting reed valves when stock banshee cylinders came about, thats how damn old they are. why would someone copy that in 2015. unbelievable

hold on a minute cowboy. you have the meens to cast a new cylinder and the best you can do is a copy of the stocker, then consider yourself #1 candidate for idiot of the century award. these cylinders are so fukin ancient its pathetic and copying them should be a crime. theres alot of ways they could have improved them and still been more than affordable to any homeless redneck. i know your sticking your neck out because theyre a sponsor but this is a sad situation of something that could of been good but isnt.

if these are just stock cylinder copies, which they appear to be, i cant think of a bigger waste of time and effort. stock cylinder copy=epic fail

howd that big chunk go missing ?

http://www.2strokeheads.com/tech2.htm

theres been several publications regarding this stuff. i dont even use a gauge because frankly i dont give a shit what it says. heres what mull says THE TRUTH ABOUT COMPRESSION TESTING by Mull Engineering We would like to take the chance to answer some general questions and myths about compression testing an engine. Compression testing is a method of using a pressure testing device to measure the “cranking” pressure developed in the combustion chamber during cranking speeds of kick or electric starting. These engine speeds are generally between 100 and 400 rpm. This is usually accomplished by removing the spark plug and installing a pressure tester in place of the park plug and cranking the engine over. This pressure can be somewhat indicative of the condition of an engine and is often used to trouble shoot an engine. We get a lot of questions about what the pressure should be for a given engine and especially, what is safe for certain fuels. Well, hate to break the news but if you are going to rely on compression testing to determine your fuel selection, you are asking for trouble. The reason is that cranking compression numbers can vary greatly from actual running compression due to many variables such as volumetric efficiency or air fill into the cylinder at cranking speeds, and the wet fuel that is added by the carburetor as rpms come up to operating speeds which does not compress as easily as air. These do not even consider the high pressures of burning fuel in the combustion chamber. The only way to correctly determine the right fuel for an engine is by comparing the swept volumes of an engine when the piston is at top dead center and bottom dead center. This is expressed as the compression ratio or CR. There are also other considerations like head design, piston design, squish clearance, etc, but we will keep it simple for this discussion. Checking compression is a great way to check the condition of an engine and determine if an engine is in need of service providing additional tests are performed. This is only applicable if there is a base line measurement to refer to, either from a manual, or from testing a given engine when it is new and considered a valid value. Regarding four strokes, this form of testing is also a great way to determine if valves are seating properly and at the right time. This form of testing, however, may not give accurate data as to the piston ring seal, wear on the piston rings, or piston condition itself. Bottom line is that many other things can be going wrong in the engine and the compression test will not show it! This is why experienced technicians use this form of testing only as a guide and usually along with other tests. This testing might be compared to testing a child’s temperature to determine illness, it is simply not enough data to give the full picture. However, by compression testing, one can easily determine, if an engine has lost substantial compression and if an engine is in need of service. Many people will look to perform a compression test at home and this can be done with just as much accuracy as any service shop, given the right equipment and knowledge. Contrary to popular myth, an actual pressure gauge bought about anywhere, can be rather accurate. This, however, is only looking at the dial gauge portion though. There is also a hose extension and the adaptor component that will screw into the head in place of the spark plug. One of the most common mistakes is selecting a tester in which the head adaptor does not screw into the cylinder head with the same amount of thread as the spark plug that came out. This lack of thread can be compared directly to adding extra volume in the cylinder head and will not represent the same pressure numbers as if the spark plug were reinstalled. Obviously selecting a tester with the correct length of threads will eliminate this problem. You must also be careful not to use too long of an adaptor as well because of the opposite effects as well as potentially causing internal engine damage from mechanical contact from moving parts in the engine and the tester adaptor. The next and most common problem we see is when a tester is selected, it should have a “Schrader valve” in the very tip of each adaptor. A Schrader valve is the same valve used in the valve stem of a tire and is a one way or check valve device. What this does is isolate the volume in the cylinder head from the volume in the tester adaptor and extension hose. Without this valve in place at the very tip of the adapter, the extra volumes in the hose and adaptor will act to increase the cylinder head volume and give a false (low) reading. The Schrader valve must be in good condition and work correctly and it is common to replace them regularly. The method for compression testing an engine is rather elementary but certain things must be considered. First, you want to turn the ignition switch off so you don’t get surprised. Install the tester adaptor in place of the spark plug and either hold the throttle wide open to allow the most air to the engine or you can simply remove the carburetor entirely. Then either kick or electrically crank the engine over until the compression gauge will not go any higher. This process generally takes around 50-200 revolutions of the engine to complete the test. Excessive cranking while the gauge is still climbing is sign of leakage somewhere in the engine. When the test is complete, the gauge should hold the tested pressure at the gauge indefinitely. If not, there is certain leakage of the tester, either the mentioned Schrader valve, or other unions should be inspected. It is NOT a requirement to purchase an expensive compression tester but one should certainly be selected of decent quality and include the considerations listed above. Regarding four strokes, it should be mentioned many engines use a form of compression release to lower cranking compression to make an engine easier to turn over and start. This compression release is usually turned of by mechanical means right after starting. This mechanism will directly affect accurate compression testing. You may need to refer to your manual for an estimated compression value with the compression release in use, or you may need to render the release mechanism ineffective for testing. If the engine uses electric start, it may be impossible to turn over without the compression release so derated numbers from a service manual will be required.

i dont see the point of stuffing in thick sleeves cut open sides and weld appropriate areas. done

lug nuts tight? chain adjusted?

if its dropping a cylinder thats definatly the first places i would start looking.

it doesnt take much money to collect a few rag tag porting tools and get started. whos to say the guy that tuned his cylinders only has a few months experience under his belt. most likely he wouldnt even be of much help. better talk with a professional instead

well if the cylinder is dropping dead then you probly have a spark problem. if it ran fine before then simply going to fmf pipes aint your problem. i wouldnt bother looking at the airfilter either, unless its full of mud of some shit

FFS. changing to fmf pipes wouldnt have nothing to do with it. what do you meen the right cylinder isnt firing ? is it completely fukin dead or just low on power ? sounds like you need some professional assistance assuming it ran fine before you swapped pipes, it should still run fine. regardless if you messed with the jets or not. sounds like it wasnt running right before the pipe swap

you could probly put some pencil sized triples in without cutting the cylinder open. im sure it was done a thousand times back in the day by shade tree mechanics

knock down any sharp edges or high spots. diamond bits cut through nik pretty good. most people dont have the right tools but maybe a local shop could do it. theres a chance it might start flaking but if all the edges are chamfered pretty good im sure you would be fine

The ten balls I was looking at had a slightly higher static load rating than seven balls but the dynamic load rating was a bit lower. So im thinking ten balls are no better than seven. Roller bearings are double the static and dynamic load as ten and seven balls. Think ill go with rollers across the board

you ever looked at the load ratings for 7 and 10ball ?

ive got 3 epoxies. devcon f, moroso a+b and some other shit from ebay. the shit from ebay i put in a cup of methanol for a few days and it didnt do well. the other 2 i havent bothered to test. submerging them in a cup of methanol isnt really what happens inside the engine. it has exposure for a few hours then is flushed with gas. right now i dont have time to do a test that would simulate that scenario according to devcon the f putty has a fair rating with methanol. the test was 7 day cure at 75f then submerged 30days. i have no idea what the definition of fair rating is. i imagine if it did fair in their test it would probly do ok in a engine but still you might want to take the engine apart once in a while and inspect it, maybe 1 or 2 times a year or so ? i dont like jb weld so i cant comment there not sure if you guys are familiar with reher morison car drag racing but the dude in charge of their head department suggests using a clear coat over the top to seal it and it last alot longer

it was a hotrods rod. not sure if the webs are oem or something else. if oem and they been taken apart several times maybe its possible the holes were wallered out and the interference fit isnt proper anymore, possibly letting things move around but if that happened ill bet that sumbitch vibrated like a mutha. other scenario is someone previously didnt set the width right to begin with. and of course theres the possibility the crank is simply got a million hours and the shims and rod are shot. not sure what the blaster calls for but im sure .040" would be as far as youd want to let it go.

the key should be a hair bigger than the slot. hence the slight tap to install it. if it needs redloctite to hold it in place then see n20tofast4u comment

alot of banshee parts floating around ebay. hard to say whos making some of them. these intakes are probly cheap copies stolen from someone else, probly chinese rubber boots http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamaha-Banshee-YFZ350-Billet-Intake-28-30mm-Fit-Al-Year-/251198586338?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7c9a3de2&vxp=mtr when i buy stuff i go right to the manufacturer (mattoon, chariot, hinson, etc) so i know im not getting a cheap copy

you can tap the flywheel on if you want but ive never seen the need for it. when the nut is torqed then you should be good to go. if not then maybe the key is in wrong or the crank snout is buggered up and not letting the flywheel pull up tight on the taper

naw if i was him would of jumped in front of bus years ago