Jump to content

bluebanshee98

Members
  • Posts

    2,713
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by bluebanshee98

  1. I believe for every 2k feet above seal level your suppose to go down a size on the main . You have ported cylinders with pods so try a 320 and plug chop. You might end up with 310's. Not sure with triple exhaust though. Best bet is to start rich and work your way down to your liking.
  2. If you don't Want to buy a tester then don't but don't come crying back over here when your engine blows from a airleak u didn't know u had. Poolman is selling quality product for this banshee community. I havnt seen anyone selling these for the shee community. You guys should be thanking him not bashing the thread even if you don't wanna purchase one. If u don't wanna buy one or have anything good to say about this thread then GTFO! I wanna personally say thank you Paul for this product. Now I can ride worry free and having a long life for my engine
  3. Payment sent on chrome kicker
  4. I'm guessing you have stock carbs? Make sure the cross over tube is connected between the 2. Also when you pull your choke out hold it out by hand . Sometimes it goes back in
  5. I used the yamabond on both sides of the gaskets and at thev top of the bolts that hold the read cages and intake boots on. Works great
  6. I love my k&n pods that I got for my ported 4 mil. Has anyone ran them in the snow? Not like the ice races but rather when u get a couple inches on the street and go for a joy ride and do donuts , kick it back and forth ect ect. Some feedback would be great
  7. hahahaha i did that once. i knew what happened before i even looked by feel/sound. we do tend to forget the simple stuff
  8. i would get a leakdown tester http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=154986 your not gonna be happy when the motor goes due to a air leak. would u rather spend 5x or 6 times the amount for a new top end?
  9. no i am serious. you have to take the plugs out. put it in a vice and saw the threads off so you can see the whole thing. i use a dremel tool ( alot easier then a hack saw) are you sure you did the plug chop correctly? not to bash you or anything but if u didnt know to saw the threads away to get a good reading and see whats really going on in there you might not be doing the chop correctly either. YES ITS VERY POSSIBLE. my bike had a air leak and i was running huge jets to compensate. it would idle fine start fine and even run fine up untill redline. i had a leak and i needed new spark plug caps. i was getting a rev limiter type of effect at redline. get a leakdown tester bro. you def need it
  10. sounds like a jetting issue. does it smoke like that after you rode t?
  11. have you checked your flywheel/stator pickup gap? gap it at .018. if it runs good with the choke on you prob have a air leak. you can buy a leakdown tester here http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=154986 if you can jet up and down with no change and have no air leaks then its electrical. have you done a plug chop? do that first, saw away the threads on the plugs and see what it reads. post pics of the plugs here
  12. correct jetting changes as temp gets alot colder or hotter outside. why wouldnt u just change the main jet? did you buy another set of stock carbs or did you have them laying around? maybe im not reading what you said right. check spark, grounds, and fuel
  13. thank you paul! i dont even have bigger carbs yet and i bought the adaptor. def worth the 27 bucks. it will be very useful in the future when i go bigger
  14. kind of hard to tell but they look ok from what i see. you have to saw the threads off to really see whats going on in there. plus im sure shee woukdnt mind a new set of pugs in here anyway
  15. i would like to add some feedback about the tester. i was one of the guys who purchased it the first time around. the craftsmanship is top notch. as stated the testers have been tested to hold air. yes you can make your own tester but there is always a chance it is not sealed correctly and will give you a incorrect reading or none at all. i was personally going to make my own at first but saw these. saved time and just bought it. it was a good feeling to know i had a tester that wont fail. its not expensive either. i actually had a air leak without knowing it. i was using huge jets to make my shee run right to compensate for the air leak ( i didn't know i had one). air leaks wont go away or fix themselves and will eventually get so bad that you can easily kill your motor. do you wanna rebuild your precious motor you put all your hard work and $ into due to a damn air leak? i dont think so... so thankyou paul for the great tester! you have saved my motor. i highly recommend getting one of these. its a great tool to have in the shop. you never know where your air leak could be. paul is a great all around guy and has great customer service and fast shipping. i remember when i first got it i wasnt exactly sure how to use it and he personally talked to me on the phone about it. it wasnt early at night either.... 5 stars in my book. straight shooting kind of guy
  16. Only experience I had with them was buying a relocator bracket. I got my part.... Haha . I asked the guy to call me when he got in and never did. I had to contact him. Not the best customer service imo.... Everything came just like it should though. Keep looking on Craiglist. You'll find one
  17. what kind of trails are you riding? more techinical or more open space high speed trails? i went -1 on the front sprocket (alot cheaper then rear sprocket) and it was great on the trails. especially the techinical/rocky stuff where you using the clutch more. its not a huge difference but theres a lil bit. stock gearing is good though imo. really depends on what you want the bike to do
  18. noss billet head. its not overkill and a great piece. call kev at hjr or jeff at fast for head and domes
  19. x2 on the pics and welcome to the forum
  20. is there a spot where you can get to 4th wot? i have done plug chops in 4th. try to keep it pinned in 4th as long as you can, then kill it. turn quad around start it back up and do it again (4th wot then kill it) take plugs out and replace with the old ones and ride home. well like i said thats if you have the space to get to 4th.... i used to use the hacksaw and yes it works. if you have a dremel i would suggest using that. alot easier! makes cutting the threads a breeze
  21. ok guys a update.... took her for a hr or 2 ride and shes running great. reving to the moon! no rev limiter effect... just a crisp clean scream. i hope this thread helps anyone who has a problem like this in the future. $6 for plug caps and running great. who would of know
  22. how big of puddles are we talking here? if you think about it the lid of the air box is basically covered by the rear fender. i never had a issue with my lid off when i ran my stock air box. dont worry it has side walls and a bottom you should be good. unless your really riding in water thats like up to the engine or flying into huge water pits. more air+ more fuel = more power. to each his own though i guess
  23. Haha nice glad it was such a easy fix. Don't get frustrated. I had a high end miss and all I had to do was replace spark plug caps. Of course this was after trying everything in the book. Arnt u glad u didn't sell your shee?
  24. you may be able to move it a hair. i dont have any personal experience with that exhaust but my shearer stingers touch my frame and its fine. just make sure an part of the exhaust is not touching any wires cuz they will melt
×
×
  • Create New...