bluebanshee98

most shops anywhere exept for the site sponsors on this forum are clowns. when i had a tranny problem first it was the shift shaft. nope. then they had to spilt the cases ect ect. they are out for one thing...... thats $ and they get it. its not right at all but hey thats the truth. i bet that the caps would of been the last thing they replaced on my shee if i took it to the shop. from now on a site sponsor is getting my engine if i cant fix it myself. im taking my shee for a good ride tomorrow so ill give you guys a update about the plug caps fixing my problem

i would take the lid off competely. dont worry you shee will be ok.i think for every 2000 ft you should go down a size in jets if im not mistaken so maybe 260-270 with lid off. best bet would be throw a 280 and plug chop and lean down the jets to your needs. dont go to lean!

i have read awhile ago that sometimes coils ect can test out ok but really not be good. this might not be your problem but im just throwing it out there. you should buy a leakdown tester from poolman if you do not have one. its not expensive and a great tool to have around. if your problem went away for a few minutes and came back then something is def shitting the bed and not working correctly

well if you have a air leak on one side swaping caps wont do crap. do a leakdown test. doesnt hurt to know if you have a leak. have you tested the coil? how about the plug caps or wires? anyone near you that can swap out a working cdi or coil? work with the small things first that cost the least expensive and then work your way up. process of elimination my friend

i had a high end miss with my 4 mil ported engine. i replaced the spark plug caps with new ones. mine was actually having a rev limiter type effect at high rpms. $6 for new plug caps fixed my problem. you might wanna consider it. its very cheap and easy and hey if that doesnt fix it thats one thing out of the many that could be causing the problem. i thought my caps were tight but apparentaly not.... i also was having the same plug readings with one looking good and the other not. have you done a leak down test recently?

x2. keep it at what you broke the engine in with. stick with that ratio

x2. only good thing about a "newer" year bike is the stated above and possibly depending on the bike the bearings ect could be in better shape. it all depends on the bike though and how good the owner took care of it

mine was having the same issue, high rpm rev limiter and my plugs were both different. you prob have a leak which is causing a lean reading on one plug. get a leakdown tester from poolman. its great insurance for a very small price. you might wanna replace the plug caps with new ones. they are very cheap. 6 bucks for mine and it cleaned up my rev limiter effect towards redline. hope this helps

sonofsand- im actually using the standard br8es plugs wit the lil cap off so it fits into the new plug caps. i cant fit solid tip plugs in or a regular plug with the small cap on top for that matter. gap is still at .018 and i didnt even gap the spark pllug at all. is it possible yours was having that same issue awhile back due to the cap? i remember i pmed you about my prob awhile ago. just food for thought. surfrjag- thanks for the flyhweel tip i didnt know about that. i love this forum there is so much to learn and good people here

i beleive they are 22 or 21? cant remember. it runs on 93 pump gas. ok i think i solved my problem! for the heck of it i took the coil to the shop to make sure it was working correctly and it is. the problem was the cap! i put some new ngk ones on and it seems to have fixed the problem. 6 bucks. the plug caps are nice and tight on the plugs now and no more rev limiter effecr. revs very clean. heres pics of the stock 98 caps thank god i didnt start buying parts! lesson leanred. always start with the least expensive stuff first. could be something as simple as that. i took it down the street for a lil ride and seems to be fine. i will def report back soon with a update to make sure it has cured the problem. 252wheelieking- tell your friend jeff to try new plug caps if he is having a high end miss like mine was. i got the ngk ones. you have to unscrew the lil top on the spark plug to make it fit into the new caps i got. zachass9- good call bro! seems that was exactly the problem. thankyou everyone for your support! much appreciated!! give me a lil time so i can report back and let you guys know. gotta take it for a good long ride and see if it holds up which i beleive it should. ahhh i feel like a lil kid on christmas! having my 4 mil dune port finally run right.

haha nice yea i got the hd 2 motosports edition. hey if you dont mind send me some tips on the go pro so im not throwing the thing after trying to figure it out . pm me

compression test first. if good then trade even swap. like the others said buy pipes on here you will find some cheap and your good to go

pics might help!

nice looks like alot of fun. girls cute too is that a go pro 2? i have one coming in the mail very soon

the first real "r1" was in 1998. a carburated beast in its day! they even kept the carbs on untill the 02 model when it became fuel injected. the r1 had tons of low and mid range pull with a pretty decent top end in 98-03 models. in 04 they swapped it....most of its power was in the mid to top rpms. just some fun facts i always used the best syntheti ams oil in my r1's that i have now and the ones i sold over the years. haha i have had quite a few. not really sure about whats what on the oil though. i would think a oil for wet clutch would be fine regardless. not 100% sure just throwing ideas in the air

i have a proflow air filter that ill sell you for the stock air box with the pro flow adaptor. a lil chewed up at the end. thats how i got it though. here pics Its a pro design clamp on thing for the air box. Comes with all mounting hardware just need one nut that you can buy very cheap at any hardware store. All you do is just screw 2 holes in yur airbox and put the screws through the holes and the adapter then just put the nuts on the screws. Then just put the air filter on and get a flat screwdriver and tighten down the clamp and ride. Its that easy

ill let you guys know and thankyou. yea i have read and heard that ricky stators are crap!

thanks bro. gotta grab the tools first and ill see how the flywheel is and let you guys know. hey hows the nology coil? better then oem?

illl do that tomorrow and see if that fixes the problem. would the solid tips make that much of a difference? i can understand if the tips were coming off but they are staying on nice and tight. any other thoughts people reading this thread?

lol what a nice bent rear frame look at how high that rear fender is sitting up

gonna buy a flywheel puller tomorrow. it shouldnt make any noise while shaking it correct? all bolts that hold on cdi, coil are nice and tight. stators are easy correct? just take off flywheel, then screws that hold on stator and unplug stator correct? reverse steps to install? same issue as my bike? should be getting a go pro hero 2 camera in soon and ill make a video of it with my bike i had them before, currently just have br8es plugs with tip screws, the tips on the plugs are very tight though and have not vibrated off at all. its not fuel related i still have a good amount of gas in the carbs left after doing this.

i am having a rev limiter type effect ( high end miss) going on right towards redline on the higher rpms. set up is as follows, 4 mil hjr dune port, stock carbs, 340 mains, 27.5 pilots, k&n pods, vforce3 reeds, tors and parking brake removed, noss head, +4 timing. stator/flywheel pickup is gapped at .018 and plugs are gapped at .022. i did a leak down test and tried all different types of jetting from 320-370 mains. elevation is around 300 ft above sea level. i beleive it is an electrical issue. starts up fine, idles fine, everything is good up to a higher rpm. wide open throttle is fine up to a certain rpm ( higher powerband rpms and redline) i did some researching and it seems stators seem to go. could be coil, plug wires,caps,cdi box. i tried new plugs with the correct gap for my set up and no luck. air filters and reeds are new. here is a video on youtube that basically sounds the same problem as mine right now. (28-32 seconds in video . thats not my bike but its basically doing the same thing... mine revs out a lil farther then does that) there is no backfire youtube.com/watch?v=8n0vmQzjZ1U im not really sure how to test the electrical stuff. i have a multimeter but cant get a reading out of the coil at all. i could be doing it wrong though. its on ohmn 2k setting and i touch the negative and postive part of the coil with the negative and postive part of the meter and no reading on the meter. im def a noob when it comes to electrical. i have read thatr you can test coils and they can still be bad? there was actually a thread on this forum about the same problem ( and it turned out to be the stator. before i go buying new parts i thought i would get your hq's thoughts or advice first. im thinking its the coil or stator starting to fail. i had this "rev limiter issue" before but it was a air leak/jetting problem. fixed that and it ran good ( no rev limiter) then out of no where it started to happen again. possibly a electircal issue caused by the power of the port. the porting will not cause that issue... its gotta be electrical

I just went from fmf fattys to shearers . Fmf are more of a low to mid pipe. Shearers are more mid to top end. What kind of riding are you doing? Also with shearers you have to run pods. They will not fit with the stock air box on. I did not know this at first. I don't know if it was the pods + shearers + reeds but now the bike spins the tires on the street when the band kicks in! Totally sick! Fmfs are not a bad pipe. I ran them on my 4 mil dune port for awhile and liked them. I wanted some more top end and the shearers did that and then some. They are great pipes. Like I said it depends on what you want the bike to do.

air filter type? air box? lid on or off? what elevation, temp? what size main jets are in the carbs? this will help with the correct jetting

Bike looks great man