Starwriter

Hate to be a smart ass, but is there plenty of fuel in the tank? How about the parking brake rev limiter? Go almost to the end of this thread. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140967&st=0&p=1217269&hl=+parking%20+brake&fromsearch=1entry1217269

If it were mine, I would get another flywheel that's not all tore up, and then use valve lapping compound to lap in the taper on the crank. The fit of the taper is crucial to insuring that the flywheel doesn't come off. This thread explains it. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=122256 As for the stator, if the wires aren't trashed, I would set the pickup gap, and run it. If it doesn't run or doesn't run lights, then buy another stator.

Bought a chrome steering stem from him. Looks really nice. He packed it well, and shipped promptly. Great seller. Thanks

The petcock is located in a sump for a reason. And no, you can't move the sump. Gas tank plastic can be hot air welded, but you will never stop it from leaking at the welds. Trust me, I've tried.

I do the same thing with car battery cables. Cut the slot out wider so it clamps down before the slot closes up. And you know you have to pull the bolt all the way out before you can slide the shifter off, right?

Try oven cleaner. Mr. Muscle, Easy Off, or something. If it's cheap paint, it will take it off and it shouldn't hurt the plastic. I used it on Honda 250R fender plastics a long time ago, and it didn't hurt that plastic. If it's some kind of high quality automotive paint, it won't do anything. It works great for taking lettering enamel off cars without hurting the rest of the paint on the car.

I have my ebay search set to exclude all auctions by Minkia38. It's an option in the advanced search.

For the nut that holds the lower steering stem bearing in, get a 3/4" bolt, which will have a 1 1/8" head. You are essentially using it as a big allen wrench. You can turn the bolt with a pipe wrench or weld a junk socket to the threaded end of the bolt. You can get a new bearing and both seals for $15 shipped off ebay.

As far as I know, Yamaha never made a white radiator cover plastic. They did make a white tank cover plastic.

The primary is .3 ohms. Perfectly in spec. It's the secondary that reads open circuit. But it runs... I'm gonna put new wires and NGK caps on mine, just because... As far as yours, can you borrow a CDI from somebody?

Well, the plot thickens. I took the plug wires out and took 1 cap off the end of the wire. The wires are stranded copper, so they're 0 ohms. The caps have 5K ohms and 6K ohms. But the secondary in the coil shows open, no matter if you measure plug wire terminal to plug wire terminal, or plug wire terminal to either primary terminal. But I ran the bike myself. ?????

I just tested mine and it tests open secondary, and I took it off a running bike. Not sure what's up with that. So, don't be too quick to condemn the coil.

Thanks, yea, I've been considering that route. I saw an old thread in here where Stellar mentioned about the ball joints and bungs. That part of the build has kind of been on the back burner. I just got my cylinders, trans and stuff back from Redline yesterday, so I can put the motor back together.

spec for the secondary coil resistance is 4,700 to 7,100 ohms

They're VW super beetle ball joints that atvracing does some kind of custom machine work on and then WELDS them into the arms. They actually PC the arms, weld 2 spots to hold the ball joints in and then touch up the PC. I have a pair of them that I bought off ebay that looked like screw in ball joints in the pic. Well, I sent them to be chromed, told the chrome shop about the plastic in the ball joints. Don't know how they did it, but somehow in striping the PC, the plastic is gone. If I hadn't already bought new heims and bushings, I would just throw them in the scrap pile. I am probably going to machine out chromolly bungs and tig them in. Going to have to make a jig to hold the uppers together. Way too much work. But anyway, mine are the correct taper size for the stock spindles. Don't know what's up with yours.

Why don't you cut off a few unnecessary brackets before you send it off? It really amazes me when people have awesome powder coating done and the leave those 2 tabs sticking up that had rubber bumpers for the stock pipes. What, just in case they want to go back to stock pipes? There's some others, but those are so obvious. Is that rear tail section bent up? Are you gonna fix that?

Those look like Laegers to me. Just by looking at the ball joint type.

The steering stop on the frame is probably bent forward. Take a chunk of shaft and a big hammer and whack it rearward. The sides of it may be mushed. Weld it up, and then reinforce it. The steering shaft tab is rounded and pushes the frame tab forward, when the bikes been flipped a few times.

The axle, 2 snap rings, and that big 2 piece nut. When you turn the outer part of that big nut, the left side of the inner part goes against the snap ring and the outer part pushes against the sprocket hub. There is a set screw in the side of the big nut to lock it.

https://www.atvracing1.com/

Click reload, Brian, and poof it's gone. That sometimes happens with craigslist.

Offer PMed for steering stem.

You guys are just upset that you didn't think of it first. All ya gotta do is stick the Banshee cases in the band saw and lop off the back half. Then just mount a Yamaha CVT from a snowmobile behind it. Make sure you get one out of a Yamaha so the crank drive size is the same. All Yamaha's have the same size shaft on the end of the crank. Of coarse you're going to have to do the DC conversion, run a battery, and an electric water pump. Should be able to do it in a weekend. Or you could save yourself a lot of work and just put Banshee suspension and wheels on a snowmobile. Heck, you could probably even put fenders on it and license it to ride on the street. "Hey, look at that guy riding a snowmobile down the street in JULY!"

Done deal, springer. They're on their way. Enjoy!!!

Here is a pair of very nice 17cc cool head domes. They are not perfect, but they are very nice. I would rate them 9 out of 10. They are for alky in a stock bore, stock stroke motor. You can NOT use them with pump gas. Race gas would probably be iffy. They are totally free to the 1st person that NEEDS them and is low on funds.. I do not want to see them on ebay next week. If you spent $5K on your last motor build, you are not eligible. Send me a PM with your shipping address and post here that you call dibbs. I would like to start a trend here for people that have good usable parts laying around, and don't need the money. This is a way of helping out our fellow members that are low on funds and trying to have a good time. Please don't offer up useless junk. Bent A arms, cracked intake boots, trashed cranks, or bent axles. The items must be 100% free. Donating person pays shipping.