sprinklerman

replied

Yea, 300'. Problem with gearing lower is im already spinning like crazy launching in 2nd. I can actually launch in 3rd sometimes as it is. So im pretty sure more paddle is needed. Im wondering what difference there is in grip between 21x12's and 22x11's. and i need to narrow down if i need 10 or 11 paddle tires... thanks for all input so far.

Im thinking that might be a little too much for a pump gas motor, yea?

Fits stock axle size.

I am selling my LoneStar axle its adjustable from +1" to +3" or 4" (not 100% how wide as ive not measured, just going off of their website) I can measure for you if interested. It is straight and true. the splines are in excellent shape. There is a slight amount of pitting as seen in photo's ,but im sure you can steel wool it. $200.00 shipped and paypal in U.S.A the axle carrier includes the brake stay and little spacers as well as retaining clip. The bearings and seals look new and roll freely without any rough spots. 75.00 shipped in USA. "> "> "> "> "> "> "> "> ">

Thanks for the reply. whats the advantage of those over a say 21x12x8? Let me describe as best i can a typical race. I have to feather out 2nd gear launches , not because itl bog,but because it'll spin the tires so quickly that 3rd gear shift is almost immediate. Then 3rd gear,the tires are trying to hook a little,but still blowing off pretty bad. Click into 4th and they start to bite and it really starts gaining ground quick...but by then you are about ready to shut it down. I have a 15t front sprocket im going to try asap,but i really dont think thats the real solution.... any thoughts?

Need some pointers in the right direction as to adding some bite to my setup. It is as follows: Soft powdery Sand 4mm Serval (ported) dyno'd @ approx 85-ish HP/45TQ (pump gas) + 6" swingarm set level/slightly up in the back 14/41 gearing stock frame 9 paddle Padla Brats 21x12x8 Comp cut rider 200# Problem is im blowing off the tires thru 3rd gear,just getting good bite into 4th,but by then you are almost done. Need to improve the 1st 60' for sure. Getting tired of reeling people in. any suggestions? I have play tires ,so these can be strictly for drags.

Have Redline build you a 4mm stock cyl. We have one that runs a airbox and stock carbs ( which id think you'd want for trails) but MORE than holds its own at the strip. The only thing on that bike that wouldnt work for you on the trails is the +4 swingarm. It has yet to have a pump gas motor or a 4 stroke get within an reasonably competitive distance. ( When i say 4 stroke, i mean built ones with cams, athena cyls,stroker cranks and running race fuel , 14-15:1 compression,setup for drag racing)

I like it just how it sits. Maybe black out the wheels and leave the beadlocks alum? Looks good.

..........I'm beginning to think we've been trolled BIG TIME. yea,yea, i know he's posted a few "pix" of "his" bike, but we all know you can Google Image anything. Sounds like a young guy posting his wish list every time he posts something... I mean really, Ive seen salesmen who couldn't do as good of a job advertizing parts as he does.

More like throw them at whoever bored them that big!

Once you hit air like in the above pix. the carbs are ruined. You can thank whoever "bored" them for you, for trashing your carbs.

found one. Thanks guys.

I would highly recommend CAMATV on here. I had him do mine and all it takes is the barest hint of tapping the clutch and you are in the next gear at WOT.

Looking to buy a GOOD flywheel. No junk. All threads MUST be good. Taper MUST be good. No sand sound or rattles. Thanks

i have one in good shape for 35.00 plus shipping. USPS. Thanks

PM'd

found one. thx builder

the stock one is sold. all i have is the alum one. 1 stock swinger and the axle.

WTB adjustable timing plate . Prefer billet,but might consider one of the cast ones. Thansk

bump. Axle, swinger with alum skid still for sale.

Aftermarket "stock carb" needles ARE NOT shorter than the factory needle. Toomey/dynojet needles are LONGER than the factory needle. They are thinner ,but not shorter. just an FYI. I've had them side-by-side and measured them.

...........im hoping you'll be cleaning those cases( that you set the new crank in) a little better before installing... I know when i put my Serval back together , and when i had Cam @ Redline do a crank for my dads bike, he HIGHLY recommended just sticking to a genuine HotRods with Maxload and TZ,,,,its just not worth a couple bucks when its the life of your engine. Glad i didn't "Wang" either engines.

google search. there are some very detailed informative how- to's on that.

i'll take the timing plate if its a billet one....after seeing pictures anyway. If its one of those cheaper "ricky stator" cast, ebay ones, i'd give you 15.00. Shoot me some pics. thanks