DirtDiggler69

Check your floats and make sure they don't have cracks in them , if you have a cracked float ( the fuel just dries out the plastic and over time it cracks and fuel seeps in ) this can cause headaches for weeks before you figure it out , could be the reason it's always coming out of the overflows or the float height is incorrect . Dual pingel , bigger fuel line , anything you can do to keep them huffers fed......

Check your floats and make sure they don't have cracks in them , if you have a cracked float ( the fuel just dries out the plastic and over time it cracks and fuel seeps in ) this can cause headaches for weeks before you figure it out , could be the reason it's always coming out of the overflows or the float height is incorrect . Dual pingel , bigger fuel line , anything you can do to keep them huffers fed......

Yeah the stock Pump Impeller is a weak point in the cooling system . I have invested in the Billet Impeller and a double row core radiator . I haven't had a banshee very long but my riding bud has had the same one for 10 years and his opinion on the cooling system is the stock radiator isn't sufficient , he melted his impeller and went with the billet unit , had problems with melted orings in the head a couple times , and as soon as he went with the double core radiator his problems stopped .

It would help to know some specific details about your shee. Mods you have done , current set-up , Have you checked compression and done leak down tests ? Help us help you by giving more info .

Go with UNI 2 stage pod filters and get outerwears for them . if you hit a few puddles now and again , you won't have any issues , no creek crossing though .

This exactly why I am going to run a single Carb on the shee , One day when I make it to Glamis , if the fucker did that to me I'd take the 12 guage to it , then give it a Viking Funeral .......

I hear yah dude , Twist Throttle is no good on a quad , My Blaster has one and last year at the dunes it got away from me multiple times , My Banshee will remain Thumb Throttle . sux for your shee dude , thats some serious damage .....

I have a decked out Blaster , PM your email and I'll send pics , It is for sale . I'm in Tacoma , Wa we ride sand lake and florence and winchester , was just In sandlake . LMK

I have a 38mm PJ , I'm doing a 2-1 , Looking for a 2-1 Intake , OR looking for 34-35 MM Keihin for my set up . LMK what you got , I'll post up a pic when I get home

And thinking about that now , Thats what I should have gone with , but Talking with someone a 250r cable would also work and I found a new motion pro cable at a good price I went with that . I'm gonna Get a Blaster Cable and I know it will work because the Thumb THrottles are the same . Maybe the guy I was talking to had a 250R ( TRX ) thumb throttle instead of the Yamaha unit .

OK , so I'm slowly getting the 2-1 Banshee Project together and I ordered a Throttle Cable for it , problem is the cable is about a inch too long , The adjustment at the thumb throttle is too short . Its a Honda atv cable ( 250R ) and it connects fine to my 38mm PJ , just the length has me messed up. I thought of a solution and I was wondering if anyone else has done this. I can get a Bolt Coupler and a piece of all thread , drill out the all thread and notch a slit down one side so the cable can be passed through it and cut the all thread just long enough to make up for the length of the cable . anyone ever do this? or have a differn't approach?

Looks like I'll have to scratch up some green . does the carb boot accomodate a PJ 38mm? and yah got pics ?

How much for the Intake? shipped to 98403.

Looking for a Trinity 2-1 Intake Manifold . LMK if you have one for sale .

Gonna send it to Passion , 265.00 for a New top end is very reasonable , just doing a stocker for now . Next time around I'll get some porting done .

and my .02 , Hot Knife . I cut my rear fenders by heating up a piece of cable wire with my torch and held each end with vicegrips and slid it all the way down . I didn't have any intricate corners to do so it was a quick 2 cuts and done. progressivly finer grits of sandpaper on the edge and it has a smooth edge . I'm building a General Lee Shee so when the weather warms up on goes the Orange Paint .

You could just pull the intake and look at that part of the piston / cylinder wall yeah you just over heated it and smoked the piston .

Is the stock stator modded just like the Ricky stator unit? I might as well do this while I'm doing the top end . I know I need a rectifier and battery , what else?

Looks like crap , might as well put a electric motor on the swinger and stuff a battery in the frame and go green baby

its so stupid they do it every april issue !!!!!! good god the lack of originality in that mag is more frustrating than having a sexy 2nd cousin and no protection on a family trip to the dunes .

Yup , Kens the man . I'm on Blasterforum as well , I have a 2000 Blaster and rebuilt the top end last year. Its really easy to do , The most important thing is the cylinder Bore/Hone and the quality components you use. I had a place called summit offroad in Florida bore and hone my cylinder and they sold me a wiseco piston matched to the bore . Then the re-assembly is simple , The MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU DO BEFORE INSTALLING THE CYLINDER JUG is wash it in warm soapy water , Multiple times and dry thoroghly . You will find very fine honing dust will still be on your cylinder wall and that dust if not washed out will shorten the life of your motor , too much and your rings may never seat and you just wasted money on a rebuild . always install the 2 new wrist pin circlips , and a new wrist pin bearing is cheap , get a new one too . lube everything with 2 stroke oil as you are installing it and lightly coat the cylinder wall as well . Use a new quality base gasket , you can use a LITTLE bit of gasket sealer , don't go nuts though , just a thin coat . Use a new Copper head gasket and follow the torque / retorque specs during your break in period. Break in is a critical part of the rebuild , this is done many ways , but the end result is this: You are just allowing the engine to run and go through some light heat cycles , this seats the rings , and doesn't put a lot of stress on the motor . If you were to just fire it up and go balls out , you'll break your new motor in a very short amount of time. Begin by letting the Blaster Idle , let it idle until the pipe gets hot to the touch. Then shut it down and allow it to cool , do this 4-6 times , allowing time between heat cycles to cool . Don't use a fan to speed the cool down process . Next go for a light ride , never going passed half throttle , and never get out of 3rd gear , just cruise along . Vary the rpm and don't over rev . Make sure you have your fuel mixed at 32:1 , thats pretty much the sweet spot for blasters and I suggest you use Maxima Super M 2 stroke oil . Its synthetic and has low smoke properties to it . If you still have that shitty oil injection system hooked up , get rid of it , if it fails you'll never know it and your top end will last about as long as Charley Sheen in Rehab . Once its broken in right , you'll wanna buy a handfull of spark plugs and do a plug chop and make sure you are jetted correctly . Good Luck

Hey I like that 2 cents , I have a wiseco in my blaster and rode it hard at florence and no issues . I'll get wiseco forged pistons and bite the bullet and get the cylinders bored . I sent out my blaster head to a shop in Florida , they bored and honed and sent it back with a piston kit for a reasonable price , plus return shipping was free . I may go that route again.

I'm in Tacoma , Wa west of where snop lives . I'm going to sand lake to take my daughter for her 1st time riding at the end of Feb. My bro's at work have a Florence trip planned for Mid June , already booked our sites at Driftwood II . HOPEFULLY the banshee will be done then , Just found out today I have a cracked piston skirt on the intake port of the left cylinder So that means a top end ( budget build hah!!! ) $$$$$$$$

Thats what I was leaning towards Crusty , I checked ebay , I can get a complete top end for less than 150.00 , Namura Pistons and gaskets .

So I am modding a 2-1 Intake from a Yamaha Exciter for my shee , I pulled the reed cages and in the left cylinder , on the edge of the intake port on the piston , a damn crack . This is a fresh rebuild and Its hardly got a break in on it . BUT when I had it out at Florence last year ( I had just bought it ) the left side carb cable adjuster came loose and it revved huge ( did it several times limping it back to camp ) . Im thinking that fatty airleak did it . The other one looks fine from what I can see. Opinions wanted , just replace the piston and rings on the one cylinder? or new set?