DirtDiggler69

WD-40 your chain before rides , if you can clean it after you get done for the day its a good idea . I ride the dunes at the ocean , we cross little creeks all the time and the salt water is hell on a bike , wash that bastard really well with fresh water as soon as you can . You can never have enough light , If you go out at night you want to be visible . along with my lights , I zip tie a few red glow sticks to my frame and whip flag . It gets hot out there , and generally there is no shady spot to take a relax at . I ride with a fox backpack/camel bak , we ride for hours at a time and the water and a couple snacks is nice to have . I have a pair of Metal Mulisha OTB riding pants that the lower legs zip off so if it gets stupid hot I can strip down to shorts . I highly suggest a wadd of paper towels , cause you know , and it sucks to ride all the way back trying to flex your cheeks and keep from painting the seat . I've been lost in the dunes at night , it sucks . I have a GPS in my pack , my riding spots I've mapped during the day and have them stored so if it ever happends again I at least have a fighting chance , there is still always the chance of riding down a dune into a lake , or dropping off a razorback . If you do ride at night take a hoodie , and be prepared to spend the night out there . It could be due to getting lost , or just a break down . The dunes are so fucking rad , I have trails , hillclimbs , drag racing all in one place , can't beat it and usually the babes are happy to get down and dirty and party out there . It is its own little world .

any pics or price on this? I'd like it for my dune shee , LMK

Hey thanks for all the information , the intake is a used trinity , the carb is from another source so it's not set up for the 2-1 yet . Good adice on the screw replacement , I changed out all of my motor fasteners with ss hx cap screws as well . Once I get the top end done and she's all together I'll be a happy camper .

I'm getting the carb in a couple days , unsure of the needle , I will go and buy the jets as needed , what needle do you suggest and what clip position? I'll start with a 175 , maybe go richer to protect the engine .

Soak it in a container of light weight engine oil or if you want to leave it on the shee , put some paper towels on the floor or some plastic to catch the drips and coat the chain really well . Jack up the rear end and with the trans in neutral rotate the axle and spin the chain around and around and unless there is a bad link and it spins free , it's fine . If you feel the need to replace it , RK X Link 520 roller chain is almost as tough as chuck Norris

I am doing a 2-1 intake and I have a 2-1 Motofast exhaust , I scored a 33 PWK and I'm looking for jetting advise . No airbox , uni foam pod filter and outerwears . Re-bored engine , some mild port work . Will be run below 1000 feet .

I have a PJ 38mm I got for my Banshee 2-1 . I was told by more than a few that the 38 may be kinda big and that intake velocity will suffer . I may be able to trade it for a PWK 33 . I typically see the PWK 35 on the 2-1 set ups . what would the 33 lack? any input ?

38MM PJ ( just one ) $125.00 Shipped . Super clean and complete . Ready to install .

Yes freeze them new bearings for 3- 4 hours , they will drop in easy

Put some heat to It first , heat theoutside of the pivot tube , not a whole lot and spray the inside with PB Blaster and use a long flat screwdriver or punch to tap it out , let the pb blaster soak for awhile , then heat it up it will slide out much easier , you may be able to use a socket that is just slightly smaller than the pivot tube diameter and a long extension to tap it out , I did that with my blaster swinger , had the same bearing failure .

Can't get a decent picture of the numbers , it says pj28gagh

Use Tire Wet , makes them super shiny , and it conditions the rubber , keeps them pliable , and water and dirt doesn't stick to it .

I just started my banshee rebuild , I rebuilt my blaster from almost frame up , so this build I made sure to go all the way . I'm doing a Orange/Black General Lee banshee . Going for something like this . Heres how my Blaster Looked when I 1st got it And heres the after The blaster had the worst paint , It had blue plastics , that had been painted white , yellow and then black over that , was so shitty . some sanding and Krylon Fusion Patriot Blue and they came out looking really nice , then I stickered the shit out of it Good luck with the lightning paint scheme , It sounds pretty badass

I have a 38mm PJ for sale or trade . I'd trade for a 35mm keihin , I need a 2-1 Intake Manifold , I'd do trade and cash . Carb is in great shape . $85.00 Shipped or Trades Welcome .

Like my Blaster , I just deleted the key altogether , all I run is a killswitch . When I go riding ( dunes , harescrambles etc ) I have a 15 foot chain/cable Lock I secure it with ( doubles as a tow strap ) . I like to keep things as simple as possible , so the removal of little stuff like that makes life easier . I like that spare plug holder , I'm gonna have to make one of those . Yep , Rebuilding the whole thing ......

Ok , I would say then it's a pilot jet poblem , increase the pilot jet size . You increased flow in the motor with the port job , and you have no airbox lid , you need to richen up the idle circuit .

This is true , also there is a Left and Right Carb , if they are switched it will give you problems as well . You need to make sure they are oriented correctly . ( More ammo for me to change to the 2-1

any mods to the shee? intake? exhaust? are the carbs synced? and are the carbs clean? did it ever idle before? and its recently changed ? or has been that way since you got it . if your idle screws are all the way in , and it won't idle , I'm thinking your pilot jets are too small , are they stock? More info is needed ......

I have a buddy with a media blaster , said as long as i buy my own blast bead I can use the equipment . I'll strip the paint first , then blast bead the rust ( there isn't too much , its in good shape ) then use a epoxy primer .

I think I'm going to just do a nice quality spray paint job , powder coating is out of my price range for the build , so I'll go this route . I still need to clean the frame , and thinking about stripping off the factory paint , anyone ever use that aircraft paint stripper? I hear its good stuff . Any Opinions?

I've been drooling over that one for awhile , I'll check into powdercoat cost , I want a quality job that will last

I seperated my right shoulder and badly sprained my wrist last year at florence , that was the first night and got bit by a Razorback really bad . some beer , some percocets and I rode the other 4 days !!!!! suck it up ......

So I took the banshee down the bare frame today , gonna give it a good powerwash , and trim the un-needed tabs and brackets and wire wheel the rusty spots . Got to decide what color to paint it . I'm thinking about doing a General Lee paint job , BUT haven't decided , and I'm open to suggestions .....

That sucks dude , Just the frickin balls of some a holes. Yeah its never a good idea to go alone , and not get some collateral as they go for a test drive . It blows that odds are the shee is being stripped for parts and what they aint gonna use will get tossed in the woods . BUT you know what the guy looks like , post an ad , you gotta have a vehicle description of what they were brought in . and how did they contact you? Use all that info to track them down !!! I'd like to see a company come out with a atv lojack device that isn't detectable , maybe buried in the frame and constantly sends a signal so it can be tracked down . If you can track a damn cell phone , it can be done ...... Good luck getting it back bro .

It's a fuel problem , but check the floats ! Rule out simple mechanical issues .