Thack82

Just giving you guys a update, I got Ted Reed'a Heavy Duty Motor Mounts finished up and shipped out last week. Hopefully he's happy with them and he will post a product review for you guys. Thanks again for the hospitality that Tyler and all the other members have shown in this thread. I really appreciate it.

I'm sorry, that's a little miss leading. The mounts are welded with T308 tig rod. The actual stainless steel solid round stock and tubing I use is T303 and the hardening method used is water quenching which also helps with corrosion resistance. I don't use T304 because the cutting bit jumps when it makes contact with the T304 material on the Precision Benchtop Lathe I have in my shop. I don't mass produce parts or have hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of CNC machinery in my shop like JDS Custom's, LSR, ect. This will be the first time I've ever tried to market or sell anything I've designed or built, and I was only doing it because there seemed to be a demand and I'm the only one that's developed a beefed up set of mounts that have bushings that will hold up to high horsepower engines and still offer good vibration absorption characteristics. Up until I came up with these mounts you had to choose to hard mount the motor, do away with the lower mounts completely and hope for the best, or run the stock mounts and weak rubber bushings that constantly needed replacing. If what I'm asking for a set of custom built beefed up lower mounts is more than you feel comfortable paying I provided the Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushing Part Number that I'm using in a previous reply. Feel free to build your own lower mounts, purchase the bushings that I'm using, and build your own set. I wasn't offering to build the upgraded mounts for any other reason than help out the guys that were looking for a solution to a problem. I hope I answered your questions. Thanks, Jim

If I had three or four people that wanted a set of the heavy duty lower dog bone mounts that would commit I'd get the material and order the bushing kits and put a few sets together. The Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushing's are fairly cheap, it's the T308 Stainless Steel is pricy and the shortest sticks I can buy are 10ft long. I hate to buy the material and have money and time invested builfing the mounts and nobody buy them. The more people that commit to a set the cheaper the price will be. I know $100 probably sounds ridiculous but the T308 stainless is high and I have to build one mount at a time because the jig that I made is a single mount jig. When I built the set for my bike I didn't plan on ever building anymore. Anybody that's interested needs to let me know now though so I'll know what I need to get. Thanks, Jim

If any body else is interested in buying a set of the beefed up hardened stainless steel dog bone motor mounts with Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushing's let me know. I'm going to make a limited run identical to the ones I built for my bike. The cost will be $100 shipped. I'll take a few close up pictures that show detail so everybody knows what kind of quality they will be getting if they buy set. Thanks

I really appreciate all the positive input and kindness everyone has shown me on this thread.

I'll check it out now.

I wondered about that myself. I can see how what your saying might me a issue. When JDS came out with the sprocket and rotor guard combo I thought it would be a huge improvement over the skid plate I was running because it had screwed me more than once shooting hills that were rutted. The sprocket and rotor guards had become pretty much the standard among the guys that rode 450's in the hare scrambles I used to run so I jumped on the JDS combo as I saw it. I hope I'm not disappointed.

I just wanted to make sure everybody was aware that I put in the time and work to make sure I used the correct bushing material and compound for the application and that I didn't just go to a auto parts store and buy a set of random bushings off the shelf and built a set of motor mounts. Generally everybody wants to know the exact science behind the components used and how I came out choosing them specifically. That's why my post are so long, I'll be the first to admit that my spelling and grammar are far from perfect.

Whatever you say Leadger, if I wrote less and left out the details and specifics you'd smart off about lack of detailed information. The average person reads roughly 1,000 words per minute with 85% comprehension, evidently your bellow average.... Why is that my fault? I don't remember asking you to read anything I posted, but I appreciate your valuable input anyway.

I'm running a plus 2 heavy duty heat treated axle in the rear and a negitive offset dish on my front wheels. My total with matches YFZ-450X front and rear right now. I'm just a recreational trail rider that occasionally races. Thanks for the input though. I know the YFZ spindles and hubs made a big difference up front.

I've been adding a few upgrades and making a few improvements to the rear of my bike this week. I've about got everything ready to go back together now but everything has giving me fits that possibly could. I'm the worst about stripping shit out or breaking it off when I take it apart. Being dyslexic is a bitch. Lol

I'm still working on my new chromoly long travel frame. I'm in between jobs at the moment and funds dryed up on me pretty quick, I left Purnell after 11 years of employment as their primary environmental engineer and the environmental manager, as soon as I get back to work and everything levels back out I'll be back on that chassis. I really think you guys will be impressed with what I've created when it's finished. I plan on running Walsh Racecraft YFZ-450R A-Arm's, a +2 Heavy Duty Stellar Arched Ladder Swingarm, YFZR Fox Float-3 Front Shock's, and a Long Travel Dual Rate Fox Podium Rear Shock w/ Remote Resi. It should be a really nice bike when it's finished. I'll be leaving it together this time and riding it with my existing suspension and the factory frame. The 17 months my bike was down while I had my new 10 mil built was rough and all the riding I missed out on almost killed me. When I have the new powder coated, gusseted long travel chromoly frame and all the aftermarket upgraded suspension components laying in my shop and ready to go I'll take a weekend and start transplanting the engine and other components over onto the new chassis. After I've got that done I'm done.

I'll have to check that out. I swear I thought I was going to bust the cases getting the old set out when I did mine.

That was a analogy, so was the rides like a trophy truck comment I made. I was trying to explain the substantial difference I saw between the old standard travel 2007 YFZ-450SE Hybrid Suspension Component's w/ FullFlight A-Arm's and the new long travel 2011 YFZ-450X Hybrid Suspension Component's with Metal Tech A-Arm's. I'm sorry I didn't mean for that to taken literally, I know my bike doesn't have 50" of front suspension travel like a trophy truck. I guess it's hard to differentiate or tell the difference when something is being typed and the person reading it isn't there to hear the statement being said.

I've got the packages and part numbers in a binder that I keep notes, diagrams, instructions, and receipts in down at my shop. I'll get those next time I'm down there. With that being said, getting the OEM Rubber Bushing's out of the center cases is a bitch! It's by no means a easy task. I think you'll have to have the cases split and empty so you can get them in a upright hydraulic press and press them out. I don't think there is any way to safely remove the factory center case motor mount bushing's with the engine assembled and do it without risking doing damage to the cases. That's just my opinion, mine were a nightmare to get out, and Energy sells small packages of synthetic lubricant that's formulated with a polyurethane conditioner, you'll need that grease to press the new bushings in without damaging them. If you look at the picture I attached you'll notice the Energy Suspension Polyuathane Bushing's for the cases use a zinc plated hardened steel sleeve like the OEM Rubber Bushing's come with from the factory. The new replacment sleeves that come with the polyurethane bushings float unlike the OEM bushing sleeves. They work great, just apply a thin coat of the Energy Polyurethane Grease and Conditioner slide them in place and wipe away the excess and your good to go. I went ahead and but the bullet and bought new titanium motor mount hardware and titanium nylon lock nuts and had my buddies at the machine shop that sponsor my Banshee machine me a new set of billet aluminum side mounts. The new upgraded motor mounts, polyuathane bushings, JDS Billet Engine Support/Chariot Billet Stator Cover, and ti motor mount hardware really came together and made for a nice setup. I'm surprised JDS Custom's or one of the other site sponsors doesn't offer a complete upgraded combo similar to the one that I put together for my bike. Maybe if you guys show enough interest JDS will put a complete kit together.

The Energy Suspension Polyuathane Bushing Part Number for the bushings that I used in the lower dog bone motor mounts is: PN: 98105R The Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushing's that are needed for the lower mounts are cheap. A package of 10 is less than $15 if I'm remembering correctly. I built two sets when because I had enough bushings and material to make a additional set when I made mine and I still had a few bushings to keep on hand just encase I needed them. So I only have one spare set for sale and I probably won't make anymore do to the negative publicity and termoil that surrounds everything even remotely affiliated with me or my bike. I would have to pay people to buy them. Lol, but I'll help anybody in any way I can. These motor mounts really do make a big difference, I think everybody will like them and see benefits even on smaller power plants.

I've got the correct Energy Polyuathane Bushing's to replace the rubber center case bushing's as well.

That's right, but the cup sits flush inside the mount that makes contact with motor, it acts as a shim and prevents the bushing from rubbing against a uneven serface. The Energy Bushing's don't require a steel sleeve the bolt fits right in the bushing and the material is strength exceeds what is actually needed.

I can post screen shots with examples of you running my me down and using my name but your not worth the effort. This is exactly what I was trying to prevent. I thought I'd try to contribute to this forum one more time and I was hoping you'd STFU just one time. Does this site have any moderators?

I did what I could to make the R3's happen. I still believe both those designs are close to if not the best pipe designs ever created. I designed all the hydro forming equipment and tooling required to build custom pipes and footed the bill for it and Tom broke in my shop and stole everything I had built along with two welders, my plasma cutter, and a bunch of other stuff. Once again I was trying to contribute to the Banshee Comunity in the ways that I could. That's more than you can say.

Here we go! I knew you'd be on here running your mouth Slob that's why I ask you to set this one out keep your comments to yourself but you'd rather get on here and litter this thread with stupid comments, theory's, opinion's and make sure you make the useful information in this thread almost impossible to find. If I owned this site you'd be gone. and don't even start acting like you don't drop my name, you bring me up in half the post you reply to and used in a derogatory way to run me down and I over look it and smile ang go on because I consider the source.

Here a few pictures of the first set I built using a set of chrome plated stock motor mounts that I had cryro treated. The Helm Bushing's are not self lubricating so a synthetic grease and conditioner that's specificly formulated for polyurethane was required for optimum bushing life and performance that's why this set of lower mounts has stainless steel grease fittings. This set of mounts would have been great for high horsepower drag racing application they had a 90 shore rating but the bushing compound was to hard and didn't have the vibration dampening properties I was looking for because I was building a high horsepower trail motor (10 mil PV Cheetah) to ride and use for recreational applications where durability and vibration reduction would be a top priority. So I gave this set to a friend of mine William Wiant to use on a 421cc Cub that he was building to drag race and play on and I went back to the drawing board with armed with the information I had learned from this first set of prototype upgraded motor mounts. The upgraded lower mounts in the pictures bellow are the ones that I reengineered using what I had learned from the prototype set I built and gave away. These upgraded mounts are constructed from hardened stainless steel and I used bigger material to increase strength. I knew that Helm made great polyurethane bushings but they weren't the correct compound. So I started researching shore rating and how it effects the polyurethane compound and its ability to absorb vibration. The OEM stock rubber bushing's has a 30 shore rating which is soft and great when it comes to absorbing vibrations produced by the engine. So I called Energy Suspension and Prothane and spoke with their chief design engineers about the application I was needing bushings to see if they had a polyurethane bushing that had all the characteristics I was looking for in the correct size. Unfortunately they didn't make a bushing to fit the Banshee's Lower Motor Mount's that wouldn't allow the engine to flex and move, that wouldn't waller out with use, that also had good vibration absorption properlies. After some thought I came up with a solution. I could increase the diameter of the polyurethane bushing and by doing so increase the vibration dampening property of a harder stronger polyurethane bushing. So I did the math and called the engineer back at Energy Suspension and ran everything by him and gave him the dimensions/specs on the polyurethane bushings I needed and he was able to cross reference the numbers and get me the part number for the polyurethane bushings I needed. I chose Energy because they offered a self lubricating polyurethane bushing that didn't require the polyurethane grease/conditioner that's $55 per tube. The pictures bellow are the end result. I just want to make it clear I in NO WAY designed and built these upgraded motor mounts to sell, I built them to solve a issue I was likely going to face sometime in the future if I didn't eliminate the weak link before installing a bigger motor. 1. I didn't design or build these upgraded motor mounts to use in place of the JDS Custom's (BHQ Sponsor) Billet Engine Support. This set of mounts was designed to use in conjunction with the JDS Billet Engine Support in high horsepower applications. In NO WAY am I trying to take business from a site sponsor or show the superiority of my upgraded motor mounts compared to other products available on the market to help solve similar issues and problems. 2. I didn't get on here for any other reason other than to help a fellow Banshee owner that was looking for and asking about something that I had done and have extensive knowledge on. So I would very much appreciate it if Zilla AKA Slob would set this one out and keep his mouth shut! I don't need his critiquing, I don't care what he thinks, ect. This set of mounts was not designed for a 349cc stock cylinder engine with a mono-pipe and mono-carb like he had. 3. Yes, these mounts are slightly heavier than the stock mounts I've got the exact amount value in CAD program I used but I don't have that value right in front of me. IMO it's not enough to make a significant difference or create a negative effect of any sort. I hope this prevents the usual shit storm roast that surrounds everything I reply to or post on here. Maybe somebody will find the information I've provided in this reply post beneficial and useful for their own application. Thanks