Wicked ATV

X2 Maxima 927 40:1

It's a tall order to have both Rip your arms off at 80 mph but trail ride it lol... It's possible but going to be one hell of a ride around trees lol... My suggestion between Big bore or just adding a stroker crank? I'd go with the stroker crank. will be night and day even with stock porting. Cost effective and easy to build.

Oh fun stuff with them spacer plates on the head.... Can you tell me what piston Part number is on the top of the old piston? and on top of the new piston? they should be one or the other. Look at the top of the piston *used* if it's a 65.50mm Bore it will read 573MO6550 or 513MO6550 then you can identify the proper piston this will help me let you know how to set this up. I know you said hot rod crank i just need to know we got the right piston top go back in. Thou I'm going to let you know you'll need some head work to remove all the spacers and gasket and set it up the proper way. If you like i can offer you a complete head machine for your set up. But i need to identify the pistons your using.

I'm sure most members be happy to help. You can install motor as is with no extra porting. If it came apart like that then it should go back together the same way. Look at the top of the piston *used* if it's a 66mm Bore it will read 573MO6600 or 795MO6600 then you can identify the proper piston you need to purchase and should back together just like it came apart. Not sure what the 28mm carbs are to have 300 mains but guessing TM's? also the head being shaved is not really something most people do when they do a stroker build unless it has spacer plates. You might want to double check that.

Cool deal trusty 2-stroke. If I'm correct to my memory you can actually just disconnect the trigger from the parking brake also and be done with it. Just fallow it goes behind the radiator. When you get some time and extra cash you can then get the T.O.R.S eliminator kit Like badassbanshee suggested. For now go have fun!

SMALL LIST: We suggest and We use 3-bond *1211* nothing besides it. But different strokes for different folks we all have our reasons. Mine is it don't make a mess and drop every where and it seals awesome. Besides that... Clutch lock tab, the eccentric screw lock tab, possible thrust washers if grooved replaced, Seals of course might as well replace them all. gaskets of course. Besides that if the budget don't allow you to get a +4mm stroker crank just have it trued and welded. Thou who ever does make sure they also check rod bearing thrust washer clearance as well the condition of you rods. Also as if you plan to keep it for a longer period of time replace the PTO and MAG bearings while at it. that should pretty much sum it up. You'll be able to make a better judgement when it's apart. If the crank is beyond specs or starting to separate then consider the up grade on a crank to the +4. no real reason to spend big bucks on the stock one unless you have a nice used one sitting around or also if you have ported cylinders that won't work out with a +4 stroker.

X2 Like larry she said. both of them. But before you get disconnect happy try just pushing the sensor in your perch in the parking brake back in with your hand. It just might be trigger open causing to do. Common with a banshee. But if you get rid of all the TORS you'll be better off

PM Sent. I got the perfect thing

Here's another wrench. Depending on the motor you plan to run it's going to vary a Big Bore pipe or not Big bore from CPI. You have to be set on ready with what motor you plan to build. from the post of CC's you had mention you still not sure and you were guessing 450 to -465cc's guessing your looking at a 68bore /61 or a 68/64 stroke motor more likely cheetah cubs My opinion stick with the CPI's Small Bore unless you plan to use 72+ up bores like super cubs or something. Oh and by the Way Toomey's will hit over 10K depending on the Motor design. Compression port timing stroke etc.... But the average build with T-5;s sign off is about 9800 RPM but they have a nice over rev that don't drop off like a cliff. Remember one thing as well the point to a build over a 4-stroke is you want to build the motor to out last your buddy's 4-stroke. the more Chain saw abuse and RPM you add the worst the life span is to the motor. If you can build it to make every thing from 5500RPM to say... 10-10,500 you'll have a long lasting motor. The lazier the motor is on the power band the less the motor life will be. This something we have to consider when we build dunner and RZ's for our customers. Just some info as well many builders will agree... also as well i recall trail riding being a issue that is what you wanted. Just think about 7k -10,000 RPMs all at once with about 90-100HP around a treee.... Yikes.

No worries any time. I seen you mention you already have ported cylinders? Why not just add a stroker crank for now and later do a big bore if looking for more power after? what pipes are you currently running? The T-5's right? The stock Cylinders will work sweet if set up right and you can trail ride it as well. will be a real nice set up. thou also I'm not sure how much work your looking to do as well. I know the thread started off with pipes lol... now were into building motors but i'm open to help Roger

Hi justgotabanshee You can do it several way's sounds like your want to drag race the bike thou. If you plan to run after market Big Bore Cylinders let's say 68mm Athena or cubs... You can use the CPI's thou if you plan to trail and sand ride the bike your better off with the t-5's Many cylinder options if your trying to do it on a Budget go with some Athenas they been working great for us on many builds or if you like to get the most potential and have the extra money go with the cubs. If you do go cubs the CPI's are for sure your best option. Thou my suggestion is go with a +4mm stroker at least if you plan to go with a 68mm bore. Check out our site for some information on both if your interested helps you explain them both and price at killer prices as well. http://www.wickedatv.com/DUportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=10650&iCat=288&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products http://www.wickedatv.com/DUportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=10653&iCat=288&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products http://www.wickedatv.com/DUportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=10367&iCat=288&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products http://www.wickedatv.com/DUportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=1093&iCat=288&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products http://www.wickedatv.com/DUportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=621&iCat=288&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products I hope you find the information Help full to help you decide on the pipes. The links are to help you kind of figure out which pipes your going to get for your future build.

Make sure you have all the breather line open. The one from the back of the motor, behind the water pump cover and where the T- together and go out to the front of the radiator is pinched between the tank or something. By the way right on BAD RELIGION ROCKS!

Oh shit! that's a river! Take the jetskis to Dumont instead or some fun white water river rafting lol.. cool pics and advise

Ok Cool got it. Thanks for that bigblock. Love your car in your avatar pic by the way too. I Got a 1968SS with a 6speed Manuel in the works Here's the pic of my motor just got the charger on it last week. I guess it's my Christmas present to my self lol... I so love them 68's Here's the pic of my baby's motor. I can't wait! It's been a 4 year build frame off car. it's a 383 stroker with a little push. Build it to run on 91 octane building it to be a road race style car. Leaving the drag racing on the quads lol... Now back to the subject i didn't want to get off course here lol.... My suggestion for jetting ported with airbox no lid I'd suggest a 360m I know it's cold where your at as well elevation also recall it's a fresh ported top end. the idle issue can be lack of fuel possibly cause so cold where your at. but work with this and your idle screws. Run your set up like this with airbox lid off it will be safe from the mud or get a outerwear lid cover. Don't choke out your Horse power. 360m 27.5 pilots a/s at 1- to 1-1/2 out to start Needle clip *2nd from bottom* on the stock needle and i suggest keep the stock needle too they work the best on smaller bore motors VS the dyno jet or toomey needles. if it seem a little fat in the mid then raise the clip one more 3rd from the bottom. This might happen due to elevation and weather. but at least the 2nd from the bottom will be a safe start as well. Now if you were @ sea level in regular 75 degree weather I'd suggest 370-390's but the elevation play's a little with trying to get it dialed in where your at. If it's hard to start that might be normal due to it being so cold there. A little break cleaner or carb cleaner is the trick. I never rode in super cold weather but i know when it's cold they can be a little tough to start. after the 1st initial start I'm sure it will be no problem. Still do a plug check do to I'm taking a guess with what type of porting. Either way you'll be a lot closer then where your at with the 300's For sure let us know how it turns out. Curious minds like to know I'm sure. If you need the jets I have them in stock as well. Stay with genuine Mikuni jets too. I seen a lot of knock off china jets on e-bay and are not the same.

stacman450 Still waiting on that needle bud is it stock or after market? Do you have the lid on or off on the air box?

your just at .020 that's nothing you can go all the way up to .100 over. You have plenty of life. If you plan to port it that will be well worth the investment. that's the #1 power added to a banshee. But the port work has to be done right. If you interested in some port work I'd be happy to offer our services as well machining services to bore your cylinders too. check us out http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=358&iCat=259&iChannel=2&nChannel=Articles Hope this is all help full info. If you have any more questions feel free to ask them bud.

Wow.... 300mains on stock carbs with port work? Woo wee... Keep your eye's on them plugs sounds like a recipe for melt down. My bike set ups with No airbox and just T-5 V-3's and +4 timing pump gas run 310 main jets. I'm not sure who HJR is or the type of work they do so i'm going to keep this post neutral they just might of just misunderstood your set up or something. Let me ask what needles you running and fuel?

I didn't see the Elevation. My Suggestion not knowing who ported it or how porting was done I'd suggest start with this 162-165M 60Pilot or 62 I know it's cold up there.Cel Needle clip 2nd from Bottom. A/S 1- to 1-1/2 out maybe just feel it out. Good safe starting point. Oh and the Choke is your idle Give them about 7-1/2 to 8- turns out. Mark them with a white out or something so you can keep track of how many turns. Do some Plug checks and you should be fine. Have fun and enjoy and get back to us on here and let us know.

Sounds like your on the right path. Makes sense if the bore is 66mm and your head is still stock then the Piston will hit the head. You have to remember stock head I think..... Measures 64.75-65mm? and now your pistons are 66mm so possible the head gasket is getting in between also if the head gasket is the smaller bore head gasket too. Just check if the gasket fit over the piston also or just measure it. So what you might have to do is machine the stock head to 66.50mm or 66.75 and get a larger head gasket. Some after market kits like cometic come already with a 66.50 head gasket if you re-quest it. I know this to be a common problems with guy blowing head gasket when they get into the larger size bores. They forget to machine the head as well. The step is what is from the surface of the head to were the angle of the dome starts. Usually you want around .026 step considering the gasket is .010 already. Thou the problem i also see you say the piston edge is about 1/32 which is about .031 now that's about what you would get if you had no base gasket. or.... if some one deck the cylinders at one time before then that can also be an issue. So.... another thing you can do is take a digital caliper and measure how tall the cylinders are. You should have about a .025 base gasket if you bought a std gasket kit. Now for the pistons not lining up it's typical. they never are dead straight on. also if some one has gone in there and mess with the intakes unless they match them. So don't worry to much about that . I just seen you posted some one deck the head .030? man... there you go. if the piston is sticking out .031 and deck .030 now you just lost .061 from stock. as well if they only fly cut the head more likely they never open the dome bores either. so... 1- Check how tall your cyinders are to make sure they are not Decked 2- Check the bore size of your head 3- Check how far actually the edge of the piston comes out of the top of the bore. You can even use a set of filler gauges to match them up on the edge if you don't have a dial indicator to help you find that. 4- Check the bore of your head gasket after these simple steps you'll see where you problem is. If you even supply this info to your guy machining the head he can help you out. Or as well If you need the machine work done i can supply you a head already cut ready to drop in. I'll just need to know If your Ported?if yes... measure me the height of the Exhaust port from the top of the cylinders. Measurement in mm or inches. to give me a reference how much i would guess to machine the head for you. Also What elevation and What type of fuel? Sorry to ask so many questions but this are just things that are needed to be check to avoid major damage.

if only 30psi you'll defanately need to bore it at least .020 over from what ever size it's @ That much ware I'm sure the bore is way out of round. You be amazes how much nicer she'll run again with fresh bores. Suggestion made is use wiseco's

X2 they do amazing work!

for sure keep the Toomey T-5's if you plan to port the cylinders. The T-6's are not very good for ported motors. the T-6'swork great stock but that's about it. I've notice a losing battle to try to make power with t-6's. If your t-5's look ruff try to just clean them out with with Nuts and bolts work great with some Gas helps break . helps break up the Carbon in the pipes. if you silencers are ruff change them with the t-6's the are the same just un bolt them. Maybe throw some light sanding and shoot them with some high temp paint. cost about 5 bucks in paint and they turn out sweet. I'd use a matt black. Go with V-force 3-'s the boyseens.... ehhh are ok but the V-force will make more of a difference. Do a pro design Cool head with 22cc domes if your looking for a cheap universal head. They are about 250.00 with domes. if you don't plan to port it. if you do port it the individual that does do it should be able to suggest you the proper size domes depending on the fuel you plan to use. But.... better yet just modify your stock head. Runs about 80-$100.00 and works just as well for the light mods your doing. I can imagine it being tuff @ your pay but if it's your passion to ride your bike you'll enjoy every minute of it when it's done. as well you learn some cool things doing it. I'm sure 90% of the members can tell you when they 1st started the same thing.

You will love your new banshee. Just give it some time and patience and you'll never look back so many things you can do to them. Let us know from what you can tell what already is done so we can advise you some simple and cheap mods. You might save them 1500.00 you have for something else like suspension too. or split it between both Welcome as well I'm some what new here to. you'll enjoy the site as much as i have. careful you don't get hooked lol...

Ohh that one looks pretty clean. Just keep an eye on that grab bar. See some nicks in it. See if it ain't been flip or wheelied hard. Besides that looks like a clean deal or if not better.

Ahh... Bummer sorry you missed it. Well if you were near and shipping was reasonable i have a clean 2004 but man a 2007 would be nice even thou the same. Just like the sound of 2007 banshee lol... Here's mine http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=10671&iCat=294&iChannel=7&nChannel=Ads