Wicked ATV

I bought 46 brand new banshee's in crates 10 out of crates in 2007 I sold them all with a 500.00 profit each. They lasted us 1 month and were ship in a large container. They were sold for 1000.00 more than what we made on top of that to the public. A crated banshee is like a crated RZ or RD or even at that think of what a going price is on a 1989 crated Honda TRX250r Fourtrax. They go for a fortune if you can find them and worth every penny. So it really comes down how serious of a Banshee hobbyist you are? The prices of used banshee's have been going higher and higher around areas that people know of them or want them. But if you find one in back of a barn I'm sure you can score a deal like you would an Old Kawasaki H2-750. But... if you find a Old H2 750 in a area people know there value you will pay a shiny coin for one. More likely the farmer would be more happier to get rid of it than hold on to it. If 2-strokes stay banned form the US expect a spike in prices for all 2-stroke to go up. My estimated guess @ about the 10- year mark from 2006 will be the best value. I've seen the trend change happening real quick in our areas people fixing all there old 2-strokes or buying used. the 4-strokes are doomed i hate to say... They'll be worth as much as an old 4-strike bike from the 80's. I have a raptor 660 that has a bad motor in it i can't even give it away for $400.00 lol.... I'll tell you what as well.. There's nothing sweeter than being the 1st to crack lose bolts on a new banshee. I hate molested banshee's you have to re-trace everything to make sure they haven't been fooled with the wrong way. Even thou one can piece one together still never the same.... http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/pictures/BansheeinCrate5bmp.jpg http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=858&iCat=211&iChannel=3&nChannel=Pictures

x2 the 35's will work. Especially if your cylinders are ported?

Wow... Bike actually looks cleaner than the CL add. I think you got a nice deal for you$$$

Replace the O-ring or water pump which ever is the issue. More likely just rolled the o-ring. Use an OEM one. After you replace it. All you Go get your Self a Thing Of ATF Trans oil. 1 quart is plenty but you can put as much as two if you wanted. Run the bike for about 15-30 min going threw all the gears back and forth. use the Clutch etc.... Drain that oil and it should chase most of the Old stuff that was left inside from the mess. Try to leave it Drip dry over night. Install new Fresh oil. We use this http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=10676&iCat=302&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products. Then change the oil after your 1st trip and it should good to go....

The Price and bike seem pretty reasonable for the location it's at. Be worth looking at. Maybe drop him couple hundred bucks. One *BIG* Plus. It don't seem to be put together with E-bay parts. Reputable brand name parts and looks cleaner than the average bike i seen back east. That's always the down fall when you buy a bike if it has ebay all over it. People are better off taking off all the ebay parts and selling it stock. Value of bike worth more. That gives you an idea if the guy was cheap buying parts then the bike is going to run and stay together like that as well.... That's one Key we look at when purchasing banshee's or selling them as well when a customer bike comes in. Many Banshee builders and enthusiast will agree. But that basically goes for any type of vehicle really.

Hi 350 screamer We got some Killer Clutches that we have develop over the years. take a look and see what you think. as well tons of info on them. I can barely keep them in stock sense so many guy's swear by them as well I've proved them to hold to the Toughest traction for a Banshee. ASPHALT TESTED Here is the link: http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=207&iCat=274&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products Hope the Info helps.

If you do a +4mm with 110 Rods you can keep using your Vito's Pistons. Should be a drop in situation but you will have to recess the domes for the added stroke. Don't worry too much about the port timing. Sense your running Power Valves they will help compensate for the taller exhaust ports if been moved. Thou I'm going to take a stab they've not been raised sense it's a std stroke with Power valves. the intentions of that Cylinder is to maintain as much low end possible by using Power valves. Now if you got a +4mm 115 rod crank then you'd be using the Blaster Pistons 573MO6800 Not knowing what pipes you have or carbs which i didn't seem to see. But with the right parts you can make any where from 75-85HP with your setup and you'll have more than enough Bottom end with a +4mm and the Power Valves. If you'd like more info I'd be more than happy to take a look at your cylinders and get you straiten out. I've done more than enough work on Power Valves set ups on Cylinders. My Street bikes all have Power Valves. you can see in my signature the bike up front the Red Banshee has T-rex with PV's and my 500 Street Bike has 4- Power valves on it So don't get rid of your cylinders they are definitely something you can make work Roger

If you Have the RZ motor i'd suggest to keep it going on the WR that motor will be tons of fun to ride with the Power Valves. I have 3- RZ's and love them! 2-350 and 1-RZ-500 You can always do a simple 4mm stroker on your RZ motor. We have a simple Gasket kit for them if you decided to build a +4mm to work with it. Take a look http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=10652&iCat=306&iChannel=20&nChannel=Products As long as you buy a nice quality crank you should be in Good hands for your set up as well they are rebuild able if it ever a day comes something happens to it. Check out our Crank Section and see all the Crank options if interested. We build our own crank per order or we also carry off the shelf cranks as well. We do several of RZ350 up grade to +4mm for customers in many international locations. http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=373&iCat=280&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products Roger

E-mail sent

Interesting Pipes never seen them before.

We use this in ours and all customers bike. We got more info on the oil as well you can look at My link Hope you find the info Helpful

You can't no space in the sleeve and the studs get to close on a 72mm bore. Your better off just buying new cylinders.

The 39's will work perfect for that size motor. Due to the Bore size the motor can gain about 4-8HP gain with just a larger carb. But you also have to use a larger intake and as well the Reeds can't be restrictive of your carb size. I've taken Cub motors with 85Hp rear wheel on 34's to +90 hp with just larger carbs. But it all play's a roll what type you riding you also plan to do with it. Worth the money....? YES if your looking for peek HP and do it the proper way.

If your looking for a all around Fun to ride Banshee get the T-5's they work for many applications as well with a +4mm crank. Priced around 550.00 with chrome you can't beat that. As well resale the value on your pipes are great as long in clean shape if you ever decided to build a larger CC motor over 403cc with stock cylinders or with larger cylinders such as 421cc. Then I'd suggest the CPI's over the sheers. I've tested many different systems and different combination and i notice the power band blends in cleaner with a CPI with a larger cylinder such as a cub and larger CC's. As well fit meant The CPI's fit a little better than Sheers from my experience. You got to look at it this way. If you building a drag bike then build it all at one time. If you building a Awesome trail bike for all around use keep your power band lower. No need to rev a motor pass 10k and waste it away at the back wheels if you have no throttle control. as well With the larger pipes you have that empty power feeling till the RPM really kick in on the larger volume pipes on small bore cylinders 64-66.50mm. So in my opinion between Sheer and Toomey's go with the Toomey T-5's. You'll love the fitment and as well they clearance around the motor and away from your knees. Even thou they all get close the T-5's have a safer space area from burning you and as well a lot easier access to get your spark plugs. you can make a nice Mild trail 62-65hp with 38-40ib TQ rear wheel Horsepower with T-5's Ported stock cylinder, stock carbs, little other minor bolt ons and you'll be happy with the end results. Running still if wanted with 91-93 Octane With a Power band between 5500-9800 RPM. just remember Your not looking to build a formula one race car to trail ride or sand dune. The lower the power band can come in the less violent you can make the bike on the power band. Also consider your life span of your motor as well... The lower the RPM's the longer you Crank and Bores will last as well.... That's what i noticed mostly from riders. They are looking for that low end grunt on a banshee which can be achieved with the proper build. Thou some build them not knowing the proper set ups and that's why they switch to 4-strokes because they build the wrong set up and end up winging there motors to the moon like 125's and just don't feel comfortable or go threw motors. I'm sure 90% of the builders will agree as well. Hope you find the info helpful.

It might have pins located on the bearings. and the Center spacer might not have groves on it either for o-rings

The O-ring is to keep the bearing and the center spacer from rotating. If they start rotating they will damage your cases and start to waer them. So it is a must to have them o-rings. Unless your Bearing come with pins like a factory crank but you still want to run the O-rings on the center spacer.

Yes but you are missing the o-rings as they should be on the center seal and the bearings. Even thou they are all 10-ball bearings. the only one would be the TZ Roller Style bearing on the Drive PTO side that has a grove in it that don't use the o-rings. That is were you'd install the C-clip. We can build you a sweet 10mm Crank i have Cast wheels or Billet wheels on the shelf. I can build it within a day or 2. Just need to know the Rods and bearings you like for use to do it with. Price start from $375.00 to $1199.99. Give me a call and we can talk over the options and a price. Be easier for both of us. Or drop me your Phone Number. Here is ours 714-530-2215 ask for Roger

Yes also try to replace the grill. Them maier ones just cost one of my customers a New top end. We cut and fitted a stock grill on his maier fenders and the issue went away. Those maier Radiator cover are not a very good design. Air flow is most important and most guy's don't realize it. So make sure you keep the bike moving. But if your in this freezing cold weather do check your jetting as well like most recommended.

Be safer with the 280m like DirtyD said and do keep the lid off if that's what you see right now. Also don't need to be doing it in 6th. You might run it too far of a distance and suck the bowls dry on them small stock carbs and miss read it. I'd say do the test in 4th or 5th if your geared low do it in 5th and count to 1,2,3. Cut it and pull the plug out. Better off taking a spare set of plugs so you can replace them where ever your at to ride the bike back if your not near you shop.

what bore size you have on the motor? you mention head gasket problems. as well what Radiator grill you got? Some of the grills i seen some guy's buy off e-bay are the worst things you can get for a trail bike. might be ok for drag bikes but they can restrict the air flow or not direct it as should.

Bummer this is like the 6th or 7th crank I've seen like this. They're coming from Taiwan to the states this way. I've had to fix several of them already. My opinion... is just take the crank back. ask him to re-press it for you. or.... maybe trade it for a hot rods. This is the type of stuff you get when you deal with over seas. also make sure you don't forget the inner bearing and labth seal O-rings i notice they are missing. Best of luck.

We got new ones. I'd would not suggest use ones sense the pistons can lose there roundness. 179.99 Wiseco a set + 30 for the bearings if you need them. I'd be happy to help

from the looks of the Avatar pic and your information at the bottom of your signature. porting numbers questionable but to your question. I'd suggest 35-36pwk's so if you decide to up grade to a larger bore Cylinder later you can as well keep using the carbs. Not too big for what you have and not too small if you go to a larger cylinder. For the paddles... I'd say with the type of sand you guy's have in Saudi Arabia use 22x11x8x-9 paddles bead to bead Haulers the extremes can work also but if the sand is a tad too dense it might hold back the motor some. as well you have to consider what size swing arm you using? Hope the info is helpful and it's always cool to hear from such far places

Maybe open your petcock. You'll see the 2 screw on the side cover. Just make sure no fuel in your tank or will make a mess. you see a Seal with 2-holes, Make sure the 2- holes are clear of any debree if any. One is your Reserve and your other is you On position. Also that seal can be damaged and might need to be replaced.

X2 if you want to have a fun recreational bike " If you want to keep stock jugs then get them ported and stroke it and you will have plenty of power."