Wicked ATV

Right on! See ya soon.

Awesome Thanks Vinny!

I suggest to pull the cylinders off and have some one that knows the +4mm set up and knows port work well and advise you if the cylinders are usable. Your not to far from us and other ATV shops in your area. I Know Rudy's stuff real well and he built some real fast stuff in his time. I don't have many engine builders on my list that i respect but Rudy has always been one on my list that I do personally. Depending how he did them for you will Vary the crank option. I've done more than several of the conversions with port work for many guy's and turn out just right for them. So if interested we'd be more than happy to at least advise you free of charge if they will work. If you need a crank as well we got a killer price that i can help you with as well.

sounds like your missing telling us something. every should be fine if stock. unless you bought a Long Rod hot rods crank. then that would throw you off. But you would have to see if the piston stick out of the top of the bores. if not...... Then check to make sure the pistons are not snag up in a port or something. if they didn't get chamfered you might be hanging up somewhere. Let us know all the Pieces you change to know were your missing something. also by any change did you machine the stock head and not re-step it? just throwing things out there

Sounds like you have that reed deal that cascade makes. IMO I'd try to put the stock reed stuffers that was sent with the V-force cages with your stock manifolds if that's what you already have. back in if you got them and remove that spacer thing Here's what cascade sales and might be what you have. At least you can see the pic how they go if you don't have the original stuffers from V-force. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=83 Hope the info helps

This is my plan: Toomey T-5 Full Exhaust - Purchased Toomey 2-1 Foam Air Filter (removal of the entire ait box) - Purchased Toomey Perfect Jet Kit - Purchased V Force 3 Reeds - not yet purchased Shift Star Mod - not yet purchased TORS Removal - not yet purchased Pro Design Timing Plate +4 - not yet purchased Trail Port Job by a Sponsor here at bansheehq - not yet purchased If you plan to remove the Airbox jetting will be different, I'd suggest keep it on if your going to be slinging water and mud around. If only sand riding use the 2- separate K&N filters with out wears and get a reservoir bottle bracket holder we got them for like 20.00 bucks i think? Even thou I just noticed you bought the K&N 2-in to one I don't recommend it. They intend to fall off. Too much weight when the bike is bouncing around. Other might say different but this is just from experience from many of my customers who used them and my self. But... your dead set on the 2-1 filter then it's really up to you to keep it. these our just our suggestions Thou... if you are going to run the Airbox like twistedsheerida said Use the K&N filter with Outerwear. The Stock Foam are about as good for one use only. as well remove the lid and snorkel. Get a nice Pro Flow K&N they fit and work very nice or you can Modify the stock plastic one to work too. My suggestion is to send your Carbs, thumb throttle and cylinders to whom ever you plan to have your cylinders ported By *Hint *hint Then they or us could do the TORS modifications, jetted to the port job and synchronized. You'll just have to pull the cable out of the throttle housing to re-route it when you get it back. As per the instructions the TORS kit lacks the instructions of how deep to cut down to fit the Idle screws. They're mod is lacking the extra info and you can't get enough idle. For the shift star Mod save your money. I'd suggest to just get a shift pro we got them and use them in every banshee that comes in. work so much better and easy to instal. http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=8134&iCat=274&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products one more suggestion. If you plan to just run Pump 91-93octane you can keep your stock head and it cost about $100 to modify it. Just have who ever does your Cylinder work machine the head for you. Then you got a sleeper.... Here is some Porting information as well if you'd like to look: http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=358&iCat=259&iChannel=2&nChannel=Articles I hope this helps and don't confuse your options more.

Thanks Twistedsheerida

Looks nice. Hard to find some bikes these day's in nice shape or not all messed with. Just keep an eye on the left rear fearing and the left side of the handle bar when sitting on the bike Looks like the bike might of been rolled. But the stock bars aren't very nice either also check if the steering stem isn't bent just encase. I'm guessing the bike is out the States sense it's advertised as a 2007. Simple mods: Compression: Do head mod or billet head set it at about 140-150ib compression sense crank probably still stock. Intake: just do a nice set of V-f orce3 reeds Timing advance: advance your stock one or do a nice timing plate pro design are very nice and the original ones made FMF Pipes are Ok for now. I like Toomey T-5's out all of the pipes for stock cylinder banshee's for all recreational race use $4200.00 US Dollars or 3,200 Euro not too bad if it's really clean just tuff to tell in the pics. Also seem like some pitting on the front lower a-arms so look at the under the bike to see if it just isn't all beat up from rocks and things. Sand banshee's are the cleanest ones to get if that option was available sense they never see rocks, snow or mud. best of luck and I hope it looks and sounds as good as it seem to look like. Cheers, Roger

My Opinion like all the other members said for the all around recreational rider that like both worlds and not making tons of HP the +4 is my suggested size swing arm for all my customers. Keeps your turning radius around the sand dunes and does nice around the bowls and whoops as well jumps. If your a heavier guy in the say..... 190-200ib + range you might want to consider having the rear shock set up as well or at least have the stiffer spring installed for the length difference or you'll be riding like we call it her L.A. Style . nose in the air and the tail to the ground. Not a very fun ride when you hit a bump. You can also try to just adjust the stock rear spring too along with the shock adjustments and see if you can get away with it with your weight. Like sandfrk33 he's bike is nicely set up

the Clean up helps some what sense the casting is a mess. If you intend to build it nice spend the extra money on having the cubs ported. We've gone from 80-85hp bolt on +4mm cub with 39 and cpi's to race gas to 95-100HP rear wheel Hp on a +4 cub with port work so well worth it. Thou again got to get some one that is going to actually port them. If they're just going to charge you for a clean up you can do that with a $30 dremal in your garage. as well i have to mention you'd want to run race gas if you want to get the most out of your bike too. If you plan to recreational ride it then leave it be with just cleaning it up and enjoy the bike. I know as many do on here we want to offer it as well as an option check us out we do a 1-2 week turn around or free express freight on not delivering as promised with the porting. http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=358&iCat=259&iChannel=2&nChannel=Articles http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=8954&iCat=304&iChannel=17&nChannel=Banners If you have any questions we or I would be more than happy to answer them as well on here or drop us a call 714-530-2215 or drop me an e-mail [email protected]

Sorry i had to chuckle a little on your last post. I can tell the electrical goblin got you on this one. It was worth your attempt. Now you'll have a little more idea of how the electrical works on the bike. Let us know what it was. I'm still going to put my money on CDI.

Hey Vinny Welcome! Your going to get hooked like we all did. It becomes like an addicting drug and you never know when you can shake it. For me...? Well 18yrs later Here we are www.wickedatv.com which i think you'll get the same story from other builders too lol... My suggestion is... save the jet kit or sell it. Thou if you plan to move on to say a 68mm bore Example Athena or cub then you'll need the long needles in that kit. Now If keeping the stock air box. I suggest this which works great Run 280M with Air box lid off. 25pilot which is stock. air screw in 1 to 1/2 turn out *Stock* Needle clip at 2nd from bottom. this will work out dead nuts perfect. Estimated HP will be at about 45-46hp from there the Typical small affordable upgrades Compression: about 140-150 if crank stock not welded Timing Advance: +4 Reeds: Suggest V-3 then Re-jet to 310 main jet this should set you @ about 48-51hp rear wheel and waken up your bottom end from a night and day difference. The above recommendations work great from 65 deg to 95 or so So winter time might be a tad too cold or to even be on the bike. lol.... for the boring to 060-080. over save your time and money. For the difference it's not worth taking away that much life away from your motor. If it's std. bore just freshen it up to the next size .020 over I suggest Wiseco's if you plan to as well port it. If you do porting it the jetting will change. I hope this info helps and again welcome.

any luck?

Well if you still have spark then your going to take a look in the intake as by bigred350x suggested. reeds might be just laying there or shot out the tail pipes. Might just pop off the carbs and stick your finger and see if your missing one or take a look with a flash light with the slides Wide open. Might be able to see it too. you'll track it down. It's just eliminating the simple things 1st. The CDI was an option if no spark. But if it has plenty then might not be ignition. you might be chasing something else down. Being a 7mm pop off the stator cover and see if the fly wheel isn't just dancing there or like bigred350x said check the fly wheel key. Them tapper after market cranks are known to do that. Works to lap them in place.

Clutch basket cushions is wasted as well looks like the clutch basket has seen better day's. You might want to invest in a new basket. The Kick starter gear is perfectly normal no need to change that. One real easy sign of a burnt clutch you'll smell a BBQ burnt scent coming from the dipstick. what do your plates look like? got a pic? do you own a digital callipar?

Also try this before you spend the money. just posted it on the 7mm fella Also you can try this sometimes works. Take a hose clamp and squeeze the CDI in the middle. Put something round in between. Like a sockets on the top and bottom that will help the contact in the CDI and give you a couple more chances to see that it is.

If the CDI is bad you'll have spark every so often kicks. Signs of igniter or say diode going bad in the box Also you can try this sometimes works. Take a hose clamp and squeeze the CDI in the middle. Put something round in between. Like a sockets on the top and bottom that will help the contact in the CDI and give you a couple more chances to see that it is.

So then it's narrowed down to the CDI. If you need one check us out we got them too and well priced. http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=1070&iCat=300&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products

try a little bit of carb or break cleaner. I know the cold weather makes things difficult to start

You still have the 1 up front? that should be disconnected along with your TORS. You might want to double check the safety is stuck such as if it's sending a signal to the CDI that the Throttle is stuck Wide open. Which would be the large carb tops on stock banshee's with the idles built in them

Then you really have narrowed it down to that. the CDI box should be the Key to your fix.

IMO go with the 28's if you plan to recreational ride the bike to keep that low end snap if your trying to just upgrade to a bit better carb. Thou if you plan to try to put in on a drag strip add some extra port work and use the 34 or 35 It becomes really down to a tunner Choice. Some guy's like PJ's as personally i do sense i'm more old school and never really like the plastic screw on the PWK's but... also a PWk does work awesome when you build a Larger CC motors and cylinders which come in large options from 33 and up to 39 with out modded. So really tuners preference some like mikuni some like Kehein. But Best you ask the individuals that are going to either help tune the bike for you or ask the the Company that is doing your port work. So when it comes down to helping out the customer both of you guy's are on the same page as well they can tell you what's really the best set up and pro's and cons Between all there options for you.

You can actually fit 33,34or...35 Might take a little Muscle but you can get them in there. Helps if the boots are New or of they are a bit used try warm water or a blow dryer to make them softer.

Hi there BanshedDude55. I'm New to the site So i figure i get my feet wet on this one. Many things you have to look over. especially when your doing electrical on a banshee. Usually we've notice it's always a domino effect when things start going on electrical. Now Guessing you had bought a OEM Factory Stator sense After market Ones 90% of the time are bad in My experience. Or if you have a good Stator rewind guy then that works too. One of the things I've notice in your situation with the 7 kicks and a spark here and there is the igniter is bad in the CDI box. You'll have to replace the CDI to fix the problem. Or.... if your real good open the CDI box and change out the burned out diode in the CDI but.... that's usually *not recommended* unless you really know how to do it. One Quick test if you have a buddy with another bike around the same year they might be compatible and you can then test if that fixes your problem. Now if the Bike fires... then there are other things to trace if then it's miss firing. Such as Coil and your Handle bar off/on switch such as if you flip the bike and got mud in it or busted it. Usually we try to maintain The OEM Stators and OEM CDI's Option #2 for cdi's would be a Dyna Tek. Besides the Dyna I would not trust any after market components for your banshee. Unless you plan on using after market Racing style ignitions such as PVls... and etc.... One other thing you might also attempt. Even thou your saying spark every 7 kicks this don't hurt to try and check also if you have no access to more electrical parts at the time. As i was reading you say Snow? Well that's also a sign of it going to be a little more difficult to start than normal temperature. Might just want to try a little bit of brake or carb cleaner too. Pull your filter off and spray a tad of carb or bake cleaner with the slides wide open. then Give it a couple of kicks with the throttle held with your thumb WOT( wide open throttle).That might fire it off. also if you've been kicking the bike for a while and still has not started you might also want to check it the Belly's of the pipes are full. If so then the bike will not start due to it over flooding it self out and will keep washing out your spark on your plugs. You'll have to pull the head pipes off and see if they are full of Fuel. also which I'm sure you know Compression. as long as it's over 110 it's should start. Besides that i hope it's a start for you and find your problem amongst these test and i hope i was helpful enough