VictorK

Hahahaha

Actually the fingers aren't grooved much at all I thought the rivets were shot when I realized there's some play so I just pulled the basket and it looks mint visually

Boost bottles don't live up to the claim its better to use the stock tube so you don't rip your boots and to give you more room

No offense to anyone but I hope they don't make the version of this marketed at the gay crowd! Haha

I installed a new clutch kit and lined the arrows up and adjusted at the pressure plate,I then installed my new terminator clutch cable but there's too much slack with the arrows lined up so I had to adjust it so the arm is out beyond lined up(arrows),my question is do the arrows have to be lined up because there's too much slack when they are?

head mod and timing plate are best bang for the buck in my opinion then when money allows you can do other things

thanks

can I run it for the time being and will it get worse or to the point the gear spins freely?

my clutch basket has a little play side to side,if I hold the large gear on the back with one hand and grab the fingers part I can get some play side to side.there is no visual damage on the back of the basket so Im wondering if this is normal because I thought the basket wasnt supposed to have play

Adjustable timing plate set at +4,Tors eliminator kit with idle screws,and different gearing are some things you should look at for small mods.If money isn't a problem then things like v force reed valves,rad valves,or even some new or used carbs and cool head or stock head with some work done are pretty small things than can be pretty noticeable

my sleeve didnt go in easy either,I was able to get it through both bearings but it was pretty tight IMO

I think I might pull them off and super glue them in the caps seeing as I've worked them back in the caps twice only to see them bitches come back out!

I bought pivot works swing arm bearings and the rubber seals won't stay inside the covers,did anyone have this problem?

Wiseco hands down I've used them in several builds with not a single problem.somebody said they for some wisecos recently and they seem heavier then they used to be,wiseco changed some piston to give the skirt more strength I saw the new piston rebuilding my 250R a few years back when I looked under on the skirt although older style pistons are still out there left over

I suggest you look at a bike that has 22's mounted to see how they look and ride it if possible mine came with 22 inch Kenda klaws and while I clear rocks and logs well I think they look stupid and offer less cornering control and worse acceleration

I agree hotrod cranks are probably the best off the shelf but I've personally used a lot of wiseco pistons with no issues and saw a lot of buddys using them also without any problems.I just put wiseco pistons in my banshee I have 2 tanks of gas through it so far and its running great.I'm not gonna say get wiseco over vitos even if vitos are modded wisecos but I know for sure wiseco pistons are usually good and hold up well

When I was typing I realized I wasn't using punctuation because the blackberry pisses me off but after just reading it I suppose it is tricky to read Ill take my time and type my next posts better

Its from a cell phone sorry its annoying typing on it read a little slower you'll get it haha

My buddies TRX250R has a hotrod crank 80 over wiseco piston port and polish head shaved rad valve LRD exaust hinson basket and fresh holeshot HDs out back and ITP baja tires in front my mods are listed on the dirt we were close I might have gotten him a few times more then we went to the road and I was winning by a few bikes pretty good for a banshee with stock head stock crank no porting and stock reed valves

I always thought its a rule of thumb that forged pistons are much tougher then cast even in cars

I've run wiseco in everything from a ATC200X a ATC250R with a 120 over piston a LT250 and now my Banshee and have experienced nothing but good quality and I can't tell you how many friends I have who refuse to get anything else

Thanks its funny how the amount of air gets restricted but it stays the same temp maybe the radiator can only cool so much and the amount of flow you lose doesn't change it

Ive been wondering if anyone has a temp gauge on their shee and changed to a after market grill and noticed what the running temp difference is because I feel like some grills kill the cooling a bit but i could be wrong?

Ok so correct me if I'm wrong,I can up shift on the gas with out clutching with the duneable over ride and no damage will occur plus I can also down shift but not as well as with a regular tranny? Can I ride using the clutch as if I have a stock clutch if I choose? A thorough description would be nice as I'm trying to understand how it differs from stock and all I'm gathering is I can bang gears like I have a centrifugal clutch on the gas but down shifts like crap I need my final product to be fast but I have to be able to shift in all situations which includes down shifting in and out of corners quickly and also on hill climbs I often have to click down a gear to keep it in the powerband I'm putting thought in to a hydrolic clutch but I've had my shee for less then 2 months and I want to learn and understand all mods before I make a final decision on how my build will end up