Jereme6655

i txted this guy last weekend......there were some concerning factors I ran into. He also told me his lowest price was $2800. What concerns me is the 28mm carbs. First off I asked what kind of aftermarket carbs they were....he couldn't remember what brand they were and had to get back to me. About 2 hours later he said they were Mikuni carbs. What raises the flags.....the pic looks like stock carbs.......which are 26mm carbs. Second......ANY bike that I have built....I can tell you EXACTLY what parts were put on the bike.....ive never had to go back and look at the bike. Also a little farther down he also says it has the TORS eliminator kit........which is only for stock carbs. Is it a clean bike....hell yes. Is it what he says it is.....could be. But my concern is that he may not have built it himself and may not know exactly what was done to it. ps....he also has a '07 cr250 he was interested in selling for $2800.

Almost all of our sponsors here will go the extra mile and get parts/service for you in Canada. My personal preference is Jeff at FAST racing (farmandsandtoys.com).....absolutely great customer service and he can make a motor run...

if your going to be getting the swing-arm bearings to replace.....you may want to also order the swing-arm bolt. Sneaking suspicion that yours is going to be frozen in place......which require you either have to put the purse down and hit it with a BIG hammer.......or cut it when the hammer doesn't work.....

Ahh.....new guy to the banshee scene. There are 2 things that all of us who have been around these bikes for awhile have learned. 1) There is no such thing as being cheap with these machines. The cheaper the part....the more likely it is to cost you about 3 times as much. Whether its just dumb luck or the fact that your bike will start to hate you because your being cheap...it will eventually haunt you. 2) There is also no good that comes from "im just in too much of a hurry to ride." These bikes take a level of finess to get straightened out......if your not taking your time to pay attention to what your bike it telling you........its going to get louder and louder until its going to scream.....followed shortly by giving you a nice long walk back to the truck.

yes that is the expansion chamber. Also you never want to use heat wrap and wrap a 2stroke pipe......that is like death to a 2stroke. 4strokes can handle it however the heat generated in the expansion pipe will inherently get sucked back into the cylinder during intake and as we all know....heat kills power. Not to mention causes parts to overheat and flex/warp/melt.

definitely pushing more compression than stock..... gonna need to run premium pump fuel in it. Also....took me LITERALLY less than 2 minutes to get this DIRECTLY off their site........sometimes research is key.... Q: What advantages do pro series reeds have over power reeds? A: Pro series combine carbon fiber top reed with a fiberglass bottom for unrivaled performance. The pro series reeds are more responsive than our traditional power reeds. The carbon fiber top reed has excellent response characteristics that provide even quicker acceleration, stronger throttle response, and more over-rev than our standard power reeds. The bottom fiberglass reed provides stability and longer reed life. Next time it wouldn't hurt to do a little of the research yourself. It literally took you longer to type all that info in than it did for the answer to be found on their website. BUT.....your new....nice lookin bike. Good find on the reeds. Bet it runs real hard now....

the way that you have described it........also sounds like clutch slip to me when your bike gets up on the pipe. IF YOUR SURE ITS NOT SLIPPING....then try and ride your bike again.....this time listen to the sounds. Then report back with a more descriptive sound that "wing out."

if you get your cylinders ported, you will be needing either a milled head or a cool head type to bump up your compression. When builders port cylinders, they raise and lower exhaust ports....in essence changing the timing that the piston seals and unseals the ports. This causes compression to drop.....which in turn requires compression to be raised to get back to a good running motor.

definitely need to go to the 27.5 with an aftermarket pipe.......good catch on the rev hang.

pancake bearing to stop clutch ball and rod from welding billet water pump billet water pump gear case saver Timing plate (or modified stock plate set to +4) noss style head domes set for your mods

im thinking jeff may have realized that +10 timing on gas is a hell of a lot of timing. Either way i'd say just give him a call and see what he says.

alky will run almost COLD compared to gasoline. A lot of guys have been known to have issues when it comes to warming the bike/fuel up to make a run as it will begin to cool down between warm up and actually lining up at the start....

Im a firm believer of never reusing gaskets also. However i DO have a stash of decent looking reed gaskets that i keep to LIMP through a weekend IF a new gasket on my bike or friends bikes takes a dump. My advice (if you live in a snowy area) is to find a NON-dealer snowmobile/atv parts supplier in your area. Most atv companies seem to like charging around $3 a reed gasket.....however through SportMart here in MI i can get 5 gaskets for $7.

I like to lube all bearings with my chosen premix oil. Also soak new clutch plates in your chosen tranny fluid. Make sure you do a leakdown test and that it holds 6psi for 6 minutes with no more than 1psi drop (some say 1psi drop per minute is fine). Personally I don't let the bike run without it holding 6psi for more than 20 minutes. No more than 6 psi for the leakdown test or your going to start pushing out your seals. Do the test with the clutch off and the flywheel off.....makes it easier to check with soapy water for leaks. For gaskets I prefer to use permatex copper gasket sealer. I will warn you though.....if you put it on....don't plan on the gaskets coming off in one piece (I don't trust old gaskets unless I have to limp it through the weekend anyways). For sealing the case halves use either yamabond4 or Threebond 1211. Let us know if you have anymore questions. Jereme

doesn't matter which way the plunger goes on....that's why I was questioning it haha. Im staring to wonder if your problem was a stuck float and it was just flooding one cylinder......

If its not those.....I have seen where a buddy managed to squeeze a piston into the cylinder on a cr125 without getting the piston ring correctly on the ring land post.......so the ring was sticking out HARD into the side of the cylinder. Kicker was really hard to move. But I wouldn't worry too much about that......USUALLY its the kicker gear bushing or something bound up with the gear. Find it...fix it....and keep us informed.

stock carbs will work for the serval. You will need to make sure your clutch can handle the power though....

??? want to explain a little more on the float needle being in backwards?

umm....there is no way you should actually be getting shocked. If everything is correct on your wiring system and in good condition it wont happen. Unless you disconnect a spark plug while its running....gonna get tazed for that one. But being in the back of the motor....makes me think you have at least a crack in some insulation somewhere and its starting to short when you get it wet. The stator wiring runs underneath your carb and is held on by a bracket which also holds down your clutch cable......go check.

why do you say higher octane fuel is going to cool his motor? Higher octane fuel actually burns LONGER and more controlled to eliminate pre-ignition due to excessive combustion temps. Now...if everything is correct with the coolant system....either the bike needs to maintain forward momentum to keep air flowing over the radiator as there is no fan, or the engine is being lugged in too high of a gear. In which case down shifting and actually revving the motor up a little higher will actually bring down the temperature.

The pros are a better burn, more mid range power all through the mid to top end. The cons are less power mid to top range but safer if your compression and dome profile don't account for plus timing. If you start detonating while in the plus side of timing, sometimes you can eliminate the deto by retarding your timing.

well....I guarantee that you're not going to want a drag ported stock cylinder for riding mx or woods riding. While SOME may be able/crazy enough to tame the beast in the woods......the last thing you want as your front end it just lifting off the ramp at an mx park.....is the powerband to his REAL hard like a drag port will. I would suggest IF you have the money....go for the 421 Serval. If you cant afford the Serval then id say hold off some and get some $$$ on your side.

exactly. I knew Amsoil was a quality oil.....but after seeing that it goes into all of our sleds and that my uncle uses it in his exotic cars.....I trust it. Shit the cost of my banshee motor as it sits right now.....MIGHT buy me a gas pedal off of one of his cars. So if he's willing to protect his cars with Amsoil.....it'll more than likely be overkill for my 2stroke banshee motor. But its peace of mind for me.

they are specific pilots.....they're an odd one. So go to a powersports store and tell them its for a banshee. If they know they're ass from a hole in a ground then they'll get you the right ones...

This is very true. However of the 7 sleds in our garage all running Amsoil HP. We have an Arctic Cat that has over 10k miles on it as a "back-up" sled that was opened up once as a "might as well" style check up after the jack-shaft broke. Only thing its seen was also Amsoil. While there is the "last one on the line of friday" variable to consider.......i still look at the combined milage (which is over 30k miles) with no rebuilds. Im not saying its "the best" or that its better than another......but with those first hand results......im going to continue running it without questioning it.