Jereme6655

if your filling the radiator completely up there is a tendency for them to push out the first inch or so of coolant from the radiator. I usually fill the radiator up and then fire the bike and let it run for a bit....let it cool, then pull the radiator cap off to see if it puked the first tad of coolant out.

a hot rod.........

out of gas? fuel shut off? fuel cap vent plugged? Easy way to tell if the carb floats are stuck is to open the bowl drains and see if it continues to drain. If it stops....try to tap the carb with the butt of a screw driver. Then get back to us.

trpkkd.....where do you ride in northern Michigan?

the jaw style pullers will bend the flywheels if you use them to pull off the flywheel. another thing I would mention to buy is a decent range of jets if you plan on using the stock carbs. Your jetting sounds like your gonna be rich......The only power adders that I see on your list is the T-5s....which would put you more around a 270ish main jet range. Also look into getting a different air filter setup such as pods (if you tend to avoid mud/water).....and also a timing plate (or you can modify your stock one to run your timing up to +4 for added grunt) The cub motor may seem like something youd want on the trails but im pretty sure they don't tend to run so great on pump fuels

There is no point in trying to make "more power" and limiting yourself to $200. Either save your money, and do it right. or don't do it at all. What your not accounting for.....is that you cant just "order" a set of pistons, and slap em in to your "fresh" top end (which you claim already has more than 20+ hours on it). In order to keep your motor safe/together.....you have to have your cylinders bored to the size of the pistons. That is why machine shops will measure your cylinders first, then order the pistons in.....THEN measure the pistons and THEN bore the cylinders to where they are needed to be to achieve the correct tolerances. Just slapping in pistons to a motor not machined for them......gonna cost you more money.

Dozer.....your completely right. With the changed height of the ports, it makes the time that the ports are "open" last longer and does not close off the port until later in the stroke. Thus giving it less room to start compression. And giving it more time to intake air/fuel charge. This is why our site sponsors will tell you that after getting porting done you need to raise the compression back up.....and then some if you want it to run real hard.

I have heard about 7000 people say that they tried and the boost bottle never made any more power on a dyno. However I have only run into one guy who said it made an improvement but it was only 1 hp. That being said.....my bike had a boost bottle when I first bought it. I immediately started looking and sure enough.....you could see where the stress from the boost bottles extra weight had started to create tears in the intakes. After all my motor work that I have had done.....I didn't feel like have $30 worth of parts cause a problem to a motor Ive sank over 2k into. But do as you want.....if you wanna keep running it.....go for it. But we wont recommend it. lol

on the stock lines, they are both connected to a T-fitting that then runs one single line up to the bars.

so then up your idle just a tweak.....or take some time and go through your carbs then tune the hell outta them. and banshee carbs do not have a "choke" that limits air........they technically have a fuel enrichment knob.....which just dumps extra fuel in while the knob is pulled out to aid in startup

yup....stock carbs are actually pretty good for what they are. they will handle roughly 70hp and will keep you having some power down low where as the larger carbs will create a loss of low end power.

Like I said before.....SEND A MESSAGE TO CAMATV......he will let you know how much the cost is and the turn around time. We can only show you so much of the way before you have to man up and take the next step.

This is an example of what happens if you don't have a clue as to how to ride an override.....

okay guys....here ill break it down. An override is a drag style transmission. It allows the rider to pull up to the line and launch just like a regular trans/clutch setup. What it does then is allows you to shift into the remaining gears while on the throttle without backing out of the throttle or pulling the clutch in. You just jam the next gear and it shifts. A dunable is just a slightly different way the trans is worked over to SLIGHTLY be more forgiving. What CANNOT be done with an override (dunable or not) is slowing down by using the engine to help. So basically when you want to slow down you HAVE to pull the clutch in and coast to a stop. This is why it is meant for drag racing applications.....as your either on the throttle 100% or your completely off the throttle and using the brakes to stop. You CAN downshift to get more power out of a lower gear (say if you coasted and want to accelerate again) however to minimize damage you have to hold the clutch in and drop down the gear and THEN you have to match the rpm and speed to ensure no damage to the override. If you have it setup wrong, or ride it wrong, you are either going to do damage to the trans first or you are going to burn up the shift forks in a hurry. There have been a few guys who, even though they ride em right and treat em right, require shift fork replacements after about 2 days of riding. So a lower end R&R job is common. This is why you are hearing people say that unless your going to be drag racing, it is not worth it. Camatv on here has modified hundreds of transmissions and done some quality R&D on his own time to make the best running modified stock trans that you can absolutely beat the snot out of and still have function perfectly fine. the 2-5 Neutral down overrides means that N is all the way down with only 2-5 gears available so N-2-3-4-5 and a 1-5 Neutral down is basically the same just N-1-2-3-4-5. There are seldom N down Trans's that have 6th only because most drag races are not long enough to actually be able to pull 6th far enough to make good power/speed. I hope this has cleared stuff up for you guys. Personally I would NEVER run an override on anything except a dedicated drag bike......even a strictly duner I would only get a modified trans for it. Not an override.

you have to measure the stroke. You cannot tell what length rod your crank is based off of compression as I can take a stock crank and rechamber the head, or get an aftermarket head with interchangeable domes and make my compression the same as your. Shit, my stock stroke 350 dune/play port motor had 172 psi on each cylinder with 19cc domes.

if you want to get your stock tranny modded to shift awesome pm Camatv on here.....he does trans modding and will have your tranny running smooth as butter by the time he is done with it.

do the comp test cold......hold it wide open. kick til needle stops. THEN record your #'s on each cylinder. THEN take a teaspoon of 2 stroke oil you use....and put it down the spark plug hold and then repeat the test. IF the compression is higher with the oil in there.......your rings are worn and allowing blow-by to cause issues with your compression.

im with tricked on this one. if its got a lockup id say maybe lightened the arms just a little more so it so hopefully it slips a little bit more...if it has no lockup id suggest getting one.....or tell her to get quick and good at feathering the clutch when its 1/2 way down the track....

id have to agree with Thomas....it sounds like your having some heat soak that is causing an electrical component to internally cause too much resistance and its killing your bike. Remember....heat can cause all sorts of weird odd ball shit to happen.

In all actuality it should jump the idle for a split second and then be too much fuel for the be to handle......if its too lean on the pilot and you pull the choke out it should run better and slightly increase the idle.

like joey said....unplug your tors if they are still connected (and the brain box). cut the parking wires and make sure they can't touch anything. Check if your choke tube came out from between your carbs. do a leak down test. Shake your flywheel to listen for a sand type sound......if real sandy sound is hurt the magnets are busted. Find a friend with a shee and swap the cdi and if that doesn't work swap the flywheel........a lot of aftermarket electronics for these things are TERRIBLE.

I would up it just a tweak like savage said. What concerns me more is that the bike picks up rpm when you pull the choke out....makes me concerned that your running it lean on the pilot...

There may be some confusion with the dome language. Yes you need domes that are for the +4 crank. Yes they have 2mm more cut out of them to clearance the crank. There are cookie cutter domes (just standard 19, 20, 21, etc...domes for +4mil carnks) and then there are custom cut domes which site sponsors can setup specifically to your motors needs to create the most power. Yes they are still interchangeable. Call one of our site sponsors and let em know what you have and talk to em and they will set you up with what works....

like savage says...

i wouldn't run a 7 in the bikes. Marine motors are a little different when they come to the exhaust systems.....they use water run through cooling jackets of exhaust to keep exhaust temps in check......which in turn also helps keeping the internal motor temps down. With the banshees we don't have the luxury of water cooled exhausts. so extra heat in the exhaust can start to do some seriously bad things....